Auto to manual swap progress

Ah, yeah, mine is a 5 so possible the opening is different. You're best off going with a measurement from a 6 just in case it's slightly wider.

 

It's possible, but if you are willing to take pictures and measurements. I would greatly appreciate it. I'm converting an auto truck to 5speed. And have been trying to compile as much info in my post here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-tacoma-auto-to-manual-conversion.778990/

 

I did the same swap. Let me know if you need me check anything.

 

@SparkyIX What did you do about the Auto dash lights? or do they not light up with the manual ecm? I have new leds for the cluster so if while I am in there I might unsolder them if they stay lit up after the swap

 

The gear position indicator lights in the cluster are tied to the Park/Neutral Position Switch and Shift Lock Control ECU, your going to be eliminating those in the swap so the only indicator that will still light up if you use the factory wires for the reverse lights is the R when your in reverse.

 

Ok sweet thank you, I am just trying to answer some of the thoughts in my head as they pop up. Going to pull some measurements from my buddy's truck tonight. another thought, for some reason I was thinking I would need to shorten the front section of the rear shaft but I think I will have to lengthen it. Makes me wonder if another combo would have the right length like a access cab manual or auto.

 

There is alot of info and threads compiled here on auto/manual/2wd/4wd swaps.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4-wheel-drive-or-automatic-to-manual.702733/

 

Well tonight became to hectic and I didn’t get a chance to measure my buddies truck. Does anyone have the measurements where the factory hole is for a 6speed? Won’t take long tomorrow before I’m at that point.

Side note, I ordered a factory reservoir. It comes with the cap and float, no not order them separate. Now I get to deal with shipping them back.

 

Tonight’s update.
Auto transmission is out, hole is cut in the transmission tunnel for the shifter, reservoir is mounted, built a stiffening bracket for the firewall where the clutch pedal bolts pass through, disassembled the dash to try to make the manual e brake instal easier. I need help with how you guys mounted yours. Unless I tear the literal entire dash out I don’t see how I’ll mount it. Does the bottom require a spacer? Something I over looked was new bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate. Sounds like they are a torque to yield bolt and should be replaced. Hoping Toyota has them in stock I’ll bomb down there in the morning. If I had those the transmission would be mounted tonight.

 

@SparkyIX how did you end up mounting the e brake assembly? Did you remove the entire dash? And what did you end up doing for the top bolt? I was looking at @dkensk thread, detailed pictures but I’m not sure how to do that with out remove the entire thing like he did.

 

Well I just went for it, the bolt holes are a little off. I test fit it and the geometry for the handle was off. Made a few bends and got it operational. The spring tab stuck out a little too far for where I drilled the holes. I re drilled the hole for the spring and cut the end of the tab off to clear the coolant lines. I Built a spacer for the bottom bolt and a brace for the back side of fire wall. Next I took the spot welded bolt for the auto e brake mount and tapped it out. Next I plan to weld it to the firewall where it best lines up. Had to run inside for a few hoping to continue later tonight. 10/10 this is the absolutely worst part of the swap.

Toyota will have the pressure plate and flywheel bolts Tuesday. Until then I’m going to finish a couple other things I have planned. Led gauge cluster swap and 12-15 hvac control swap. Adaptor harness is built for the 12-15 controls just need to drag out the soldering iron and get rolling on the cluster. I also have some wiring that was temporary that has become permanent some how that I need to clean up.

 

Update. E brake assembly is complete, I cut a hole in a fire blanket and carefully welded it in place. After I sprayed it with water just to be safe. I also soldered the led bulbs in my cluster and reversed the hot and cold on my 12+ hvac controls so it will work in my truck.
I have been on the hunt for a 12+ lower dash panel, the one with the switch blanks. I need somewhere to mount my heated seat switches now that I removed the auto console. That needs to go in before the rest of the dash so hoping this don’t hold me up to long.
I talked to the driveline shop, he said no problem to rebuild the front section so it’s 1” longer. He’s also going to press in new u joints while he’s at it. Auto transmission measures 40 1/2” from out side Bell housing to outside output shaft flange. The manual is 39 1/2” (t case still installed for both measurements).

 

Tonight -

Transmission is in. Few things to note, the cross member will work. The mount had to be flipped 180° to accommodate for the 1” difference in transmission length. The grommet for the auto shifter cable, I cut the auto cable and re installed the grommet and sealed the hole with silicone. Finished removing the auto trans lines and cooler. The e brake, continues to not impress me. It is 100% done and hope to never mess with it again. Worst part of the swap. Shifter lined up perfectly in the hole I cut. All transmission bolts are in minus the starter bolts. When toyota installed the auto trans they decided the starter bolts needed to be tightened down to ugga dugga dugga x6 so they are rounded from removal. Exhaust gaskets should be here tomorrow. The manual ecm showed up today. Hoping to drop the driveline off tomorrow and pick up some misc stuff to button up some stuff.

 

Yo, OP, you want a clutch start cancel switch and pigtail? I haven't figured out the pinout, I assume ignition, ground, and two wires to connect when switch is active with the clutch pedal safety switch. Tall style switch, matches the one in my 3rd gen but should work fine. I was hoping it'd be plug and play but it seems the one for my '05 is a different part so I'm going to pay premium $ for one and hope...

 

Is it for a 05? I have the factory plug behind the dash.

 

Photo of yours? Like this:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adding-a-clutch-start-cancel-button.706421/#post-28416582

If you're sure that's the plug then I'm extra confident that 84480-04020 will work for me.

The one I have is different. Didn't realize you had the plug but I guess if you have the full harness it's on there? Or is it on the AT's as well just not used?

 

Hmm mine didn’t look like the one in the link here’s my plugs. I’m just assuming I have the plug as the clutch safety switch plug was there.

 

What color are the wires on the blue connector? It matches the shape, but wire colors would confirm.

 

None of those look like they fit the switch I have. If you figure out either of the black ones, let me know.

the white might be VSC / auto LSD or it might be fog? Uncertain to me.



Left is the pigtail matching my clutch start cancel. Looks like indeed there is only one part for 05-23 which is what I suspected since there isn’t a ton of volume. I’ll have to make my own harness off the pigtail.

 

Here is the blue plug. Doesn’t look like it’ll fit that switch you have. Didn’t realize (if that’s the right plug) they made different switches.

edit just read that about there being only one switch.