Auto to manual swap progress

On my 3rd Gen it’s latching. Ignition to on w key, press button, move key to start. After off it resets. Does the light come on? Does it stay on?

 

Def is not latching haha it comes on when you crank the key but that’s it

 

Man, that’s less useful if you need both hands.

 

Yea not sure how to make it latch unless I power it from some where else

 

Any recommendation as to where to pull key power from with in the same plug? Looks like I could from pin 1?

 

You have it wrong:

Pin 1 White/Black (Ground)
Pin 2 Violet (Start Signal from Key)
Pin 3 Light Green (Ignition Power)
Pin 4 Black/Yellow (Power Out)

 

Ok so ground pin 1, pin 2 needs to go to the start signal from the key? Is that wire violet coming off the key? Key power for pin3 and pin 4 goes to the clutch switch?

 

Also to wire the truck to n I supply power to f12 22, only concern is the diagram a page back shows f12 22 being green with white and mine is green with black..

Edit - Scratch this apparently I cant count... Terminal 22 is green with white as it should be. Just need to find what wire near that plug has 12v power.

 

Update,

- Reverse light plug wired and works correctly.
- Clutch start cancel switch wires and works correctly thanks to Dm93 for the clarification. Pin1 grey to ground, pin2 violet to blue/black at clutch switch on the pedal, pin3 green to key power, pin4 black/yellow to black/yellow at clutch switch on the pedal.
- 12v key power to the N circuit wired. Unfortunately this did light the “N” on the dash. I need to come up with another solution for this. Do not like how that is. Need to only get power when it’s in 4x4.

 

I'd be super stoked if you can get a photo of this given I'll have to reproduce your success at some point.

 

problem is there is a junction block where the voltage is back feeding. You’d need to cut the connector off one side of the junction block and install a jumper and this will fix the neutral light being on all the time.

 

No need to do all that, to disable the Neutral Light simply cut the Blue/White wire at Connector PC Pin 1 it should be in the slot I circled.

 

Bingo thanks guys!

Daveeasa - I put the dash back together. Not much to see though follow the colors and location above you will be set. Here’s a picture at the connector. Before anyone says squat, yes the t taps are junk. I’m small but not that flexible to manage my way up under the dash to cut/solder.

 

They'll likely be fine for what your using them for, it's inside and that circuit carries less than an amp.

 

Yeah, I mean, I was thinking the 2 which don't go to the clutch switch. My plan for that is de-pin and add a T harness so I don't have to cut or T-tap. Assuming I have that terminal style and a 2 pos connector handy.

ETA: I guess one is ground so that's obvious but this one:

pin3 green to key power

 

I just ran it to a fuse tap I have in for my usb outlet in the back of center console.

Just to it for a quick run. Clutch pedal needed adjusted, fixed that. 4x4 high and low work. Just waiting on my switch to show up to test my 2 low setup. Still idling a little high but haven’t really ran it much to let it relearn.

 

Glad you got it working.
Idle learn doesn't begin until coolant temp reaches 174F so your probably good there.

 

Ok thanks I’ll bomb it around close to home for a few days when I get time and see how she does

 

So after some seat time I noticed a few things. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd it clunks a little going in. Not bad but noticeable, not enough for me to want to replace the synchros. When shifting quickly the rpm’s hang/don’t drop quickly. And lastly the clutch pedal when pressed roughly down 1/2” there is a lot of side to side play +/- 1/2”.

 

Redline MT90 fluid may help the clunky shifting.
A tune can change/eliminate the rev-hang.
Not sure about the clutch pedal play.