Auto to manual swap progress

For some damn reason I ordered mtl not mt90. I guess I just did it to flush it…. I’ll talk to my buddy about getting his hp tuner thingy. I just need to crawl under the dash and see what’s up with it.

 

So my clutch pedal side to side slope is due to the hole in the pedal being oblong. Looks like my best route is to FJ pedal swap it. I have looked at a couple of threads. This one looks like the op was able to do it all plug and play, https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/daves-drivers-truck.659667/ but it looks like the op in this thread had to customize the pedal https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rations-welcome.406844/page-341#post-16682233 . I am assuming if I replaced the master cylinder with part 31420-35070 like the first threads op did I would have a plug and play setup, no need to weld a bracket on? Anyone got any input on this? Right now I have all this in my cart:

31301-35270 - Pedal, Clutch (Steel)
90389-06055 - Bushing, Clutch Pedal Spring
90541-06036 - Stopper, Clutch Pedal qty.2
31420-35070 - Master Cylinder, Clutch
31454-30030 - Boot, Master Cylinder
31404-35013 - Clevis, Clutch Master
90240-T0002 - Pin, Clevis to Pedal
90386-08033 - Bushing, Pedal Pin
90206-08001 - Washer, Pedal Pin
90468-15006 - Retainer, Pedal Pin

The first threads op mentioned this:
31434-60010 - Hose, Clutch Reservoir (Only required for 2005-2014 Tacomas that have not had T-SB-0186 Rev.1 or Rev.2 completed)
in his parts list of required parts, not sure if the donor truck I got the pedal assembly from had had this done? what is the difference and is it necessary to spend $44 on this if mine will work?

 

Yeah, you picked up on the two guys I'd be pestering on this topic, @su.b.rat and @Key-Rei.

 

Yea looks like su.b.rat hasnt been active in awhile, hopefully Key-Rei can add some input.

 

@Jeff Lange am I on the right track here? I see you were tagged/credited in su.b.rat’s build thread that I am referencing. Hoping you might have some feedback.

 

Little update, I had @JustDSM tune out the rev hang. 10/10 recommend his work, he’s on it!

My Fj pedal assembly and parts showed up along with my machined bushing and parts from @Kasbien, just waiting on my Tilton release bearing to show up from summit to drop the transmission back out. This will hopefully fix the awful sound my throw out bearing is making. Stay tuned.

 

Awesome, helpful thread! Thanks for posting. I'll be referencing this lots as I take this on for my 2014 DCLB. Thanks, too, for chatting via PM the other day, too.

Cheers!

 

Got the tilton piston mated to the machined bushing. This was a struggle for me 3rd time was the charm. I got it 1/2 way on after bumping the temp to 225 and freezing the tilton piston for an hour. After that I hit it with the propane torch, it slid all the way but 1/8”. At this point there was no getting it on or back of so I squared it up and gave it a smack with a mallet. Fully seated. Next up was the bearing. I was nervous but it slid right on as it should.

 

Nailed it on the first try with the spacing. Had to bend the bleeder bracket to make it work. Just need exhaust donuts and a stud. Than I can tackle the fj pedal.

 

What does this Tilton thing do?

 

The stock throw out bearing is always touching the pressure plate fingers. Which causes the chirp/squeal issue. Going this route allows you to adjust the bearing back 1/8” from the pressure plate and keeps the bearing from contacting and making noise.