Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap 4x4

If memory serves me A9L is 5 speeds and A9P is AT, the AT one has more off idle timing which causes that surge or bump

 

Another vote here for either trading or selling and getting the truck you want or just getting a project vehicle. My Manx-type 'Buggy has never been on the stands for longer than six months but my Subie-powered VW Thing is currently at eight months while I re-engineer the front end.

 

I've always wanted a Thing.

Rented a clapped out one in Mexico once, the kind where you can tell every single bushing was missing. Little bastard was a blast, despite it getting a little sketch at any speed above 50 kph. Beach driving was hilarious, it was so light that any recovery was solved with a good tackle-style shove, then hop in and pop the clutch, it was good to go.

I just need to find one here that's cheap enough to play with.

 

Appreciate the advice, that was the general conclusion that I came to just wanted to see if anyone has had a fresh take on it or had done it before.

 

I did auto to manual and 6 cylinder to V8 swaps back when cars didn't have computers -- it was a lot of work.

This isn't a '68 Mustang or even a 90's Mustang -- there is a butt ton of electronic wizardry that has to be 100%, also there are emissions laws to consider as well.

If you want a manual truck just go and buy a manual truck, you will have a better, more trouble free truck for a lot less effort/money.

 

Yes A9L for T5 and A9P for AOD. A9P is said to be more aggressive and it was preferred to just leave it for T5 swaps Mine is a Soeed density 87 so I forget which one that is but I am running the AOD SD computer without issue. X3Z is 93 Cobra which is calibrated for 24Lb injectors (vs 19LB) and a soecific MAF.

 

I'd grab the wiring harness while you are it. I imagine they are not dramatically different but you might have to chase electrical gremlins with an auto harness in the truck.

 

I’d definitely wait till I put more miles on the truck and it will have different challenges but would an LS swap reduce or eliminate the electrical complications.

 

They are a lot of fun! I like being able to take the doors off and fold-down the front windshield. I also have new drop-in side-windows, though I rarely run them as they were crazy expensive and I worry about them getting stolen or broken. Mine is running a tube frame, full rollcage and a modern Subie engine so it's heavy (thus the need to re engineer the front end) but still a blast! I'm hoping to have it back on the road/trail within the next month.

 

There was another thread about doing an LS swap on a Taco. Check with @Cereal_killer as he originally planned-on replacing the failed engine in his Taco with an LS, then changed his mind. He (and his thread) have a lot of good info on the topic.

 

For all the trouble and under $40K, you could ship it to Diesel Toys, get a manual trans and a Diesel engine…


https://dieseltoys.com/2016-tacoma-diesel-1gd-ftv

 

Been looking into doing a manual swap to my truck when it gets 300k on the clock
Besides the hard parts (clutch tranny slave cylinder etc) you gotta figure out the wiring
On older vehicles I know you can loop them into thinking it was in natural all the time allowing engine to rev up and down and also start like normal
On these new trucks I don't know if this is the case
Another side note to consider is that if looping into natural does work then would we loose our Atkinson cycle just like how would the dual injectors work?
Oh and one more thing if looking for a tranny look at a Asin RC60F it's the same manual as the one in our tricks but with better ratios need to get a v6 bell housing tho it bolts on from outside the case

 

Also, if you ever sell it or trade it, dealers will shit a brick and refuse the truck if the VIN says auto and the truck is stick, lol.

 

Thats only an issue if you ever plan on trading it in
Besides once the auto is junk the truck won't be worth shit anyway

Gotta ask yourself "is it worth it to fix it back up or trade it for a new one"