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Aux Fuse Panel In Cab?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Forster46, Jun 17, 2012.

  1. Jun 18, 2012 at 9:51 PM
    #21
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    6000k HID's, AUX Reverse Lights, 3" Rough Country Suspension Lift, Pioneer AVH-P4200 Double Din, Underglow and footwell Lights, Camo Seat Covers, Duralast Tool Box, Blacked Out Badges, Grill, Front Emblem, Midland CB Radio, Amber Strobes, POWER REAR WINDOW, cup holder LED's, Firestik 3' in bed, console divider, Ultragauge.
    They are about 45 bucks on Amazon. And I planned on using relays for some things to go off the ignition, other things will only be turned on when I actually need to use them.
     
  2. Jun 20, 2012 at 9:22 PM
    #22
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    6000k HID's, AUX Reverse Lights, 3" Rough Country Suspension Lift, Pioneer AVH-P4200 Double Din, Underglow and footwell Lights, Camo Seat Covers, Duralast Tool Box, Blacked Out Badges, Grill, Front Emblem, Midland CB Radio, Amber Strobes, POWER REAR WINDOW, cup holder LED's, Firestik 3' in bed, console divider, Ultragauge.
    Is there anyway to make the entire fuse box only engage with the ignition? Or do I have to use relays for each individual thing
     
  3. Jun 20, 2012 at 9:32 PM
    #23
    Monkeyboy

    Monkeyboy Well-Known Member

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    That's what I was trying to say.

    With two 6 pole fuse boxes, you can run one off (largish) relays.

    With a 12 pole.... not so much. It's a lot more potential draw.
     
  4. Jun 20, 2012 at 9:46 PM
    #24
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    There's another thread where we were discussing just that and someone found a solenoid that can carry 200a but the coil draw is only just over 1/2a so it would be safe to trigger it from the cig lighter fuse.

    http://www.oznium.com/relay200

    The diagram shows it used as a battery isolator, but the relay/solenoid works the same as a cube.

    Battery > Primary Fuse > Solenoid > Aux Fuse Block
     
  5. Jun 20, 2012 at 9:53 PM
    #25
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    6000k HID's, AUX Reverse Lights, 3" Rough Country Suspension Lift, Pioneer AVH-P4200 Double Din, Underglow and footwell Lights, Camo Seat Covers, Duralast Tool Box, Blacked Out Badges, Grill, Front Emblem, Midland CB Radio, Amber Strobes, POWER REAR WINDOW, cup holder LED's, Firestik 3' in bed, console divider, Ultragauge.
    Interesting... Idk enough about solenoids and relays and everything to know what I was doing if I got it. Maybe the two 6 pole fuse blocks would be a good idea? I wouldn't know what relay to use though
     
  6. Jun 20, 2012 at 9:58 PM
    #26
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Either way you're going to HAVE to run it through a relay if you want it to shut off with the ignition.

    There's no switched circuits available in the factory harness that can handle the current draw you are likely to put on the aux panel.


    Seriously... if you are not confident at this level, please enlist the help of someone local who knows what they're doing to help you out. It's not rocket science, but it's easy to fuck it up and make an expensive mistake.
     
  7. Jun 20, 2012 at 10:00 PM
    #27
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    Everything is simple to me, other than how to run the whole thing off ignition somehow. It looks like I will have to run things individually off their own relays. Which I can do.
     
  8. Jun 20, 2012 at 10:03 PM
    #28
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Easy to run it from the ignition.

    Add-a-circuit to trigger the high-current relay like the one in the link above.
    One terminal goes to ground, one terminal goes to the add-a-circuit.

    On the two big terminals, one goes to a fuse and the fuse connects to the battery. The other terminal goes to the aux fuse block.
    Bingo.
    One relay, two wires, and the entire fuse block is switched with the ignition.
     
  9. Jun 20, 2012 at 10:10 PM
    #29
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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  10. Jun 20, 2012 at 11:01 PM
    #30
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    That will work.

    Size the fuse to protect the wire that you use and make sure that the fuse is rated for less than the actual fuse block you choose.

    Have you considered something like this: http://www.quadratec.com/products/97015_07.htm ? I like that they give you the wire and circuit breaker to connect to your battery. You don't have to figure out that part on your own, the manufacturer already did it.
     
  11. Jun 20, 2012 at 11:19 PM
    #31
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    Interesting... I haven't seen that before.
     
  12. Jun 21, 2012 at 7:49 AM
    #32
    badger

    badger Well-Known Member

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    The Painless product usues a #10 primary wire :rolleyes:. Fine for most applications, but again, you need to know what your power demands are before you do anything. It also has the relay on the fuse box inside the cab. That means you always have a hot wire through the firewall. It's easy to install, but would not be my choice for that reason.

    I just used a continous duty starter relay like this near the battery with an inline fuse. http://www.discountstarterandaltern...?cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPb4lra_37ACFUcHRQodGRaSzw

    OP, here is the advice you really need though: You clearly don't have a clue what you are doing. That is perfectly cool. We have all started at that point. If you want to use this as a learning adventure, then get yourself a good book or two on automotive wiring. Study them, and consult a competent auto electricion if you have questions,...then build your system. If you can find a mentor, so much the better. This is not nuclear fusion. The concepts involved are simple, but approaching this from ignorance is asking for serious trouble. Aside from knowing how to properly choose components, you also need to learn skills like how to make a proper wire termination, how to properly route and loom wire, and how to create proper grounds. Simply going way overboard on components does not constitute a safe approach. It's a sure sign that you don't know what you are doing and stabbing in the dark. An example is that using too big a wire creates termination challenges, especially on devices not designed for such wire. The terminations can actually become the weak link. If doing this right is all just too much trouble, then pay a shop to do it. At least then they are liable.

    That's the last that I have to offer on the subject............Best of luck :)
     
  13. Jun 21, 2012 at 1:39 PM
    #33
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    I must know absolutely nothing.
     
  14. Jun 21, 2012 at 6:14 PM
    #34
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    You keep going back and forth... but badger is right. From the questions that you are asking, it is apparent that you really do need some in-person assistance for this project.

    It's not rocket science, it's not difficult to understand, but it is VERY easy to make a serious mistake that can result in the need for a person employed by your employer ;)

    One example that thankfully was not a disaster.
    A week or two ago, a member installed a set of HID lights triggered by the FJ Cruiser fog light switch.
    Hit the lights and blew the 3a fuse.
    Made the mistake of switching to a 10a fuse and everything worked fine.
    I worked with him via PM, and it turned out that he had reversed the connections to relay pins 30 and 85.
    The relay coil was connected to the battery 24/7, eventually (possibly overnight?) would have drained his battery.
    The switch was connected to pin 30... it was DIRECTLY powering the lights.
    He literally was not using a relay... it was pulled closed 24/7.

    He found the mistake, swapped the wires, and went back to a 3a fuse, everything worked great.

    He's a sharp guy, and had a good diagram and knew what he was doing... but he made a very common mistake.
     
  15. Jun 21, 2012 at 8:56 PM
    #35
    Forster46

    Forster46 [OP] Very nice how much?

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    6000k HID's, AUX Reverse Lights, 3" Rough Country Suspension Lift, Pioneer AVH-P4200 Double Din, Underglow and footwell Lights, Camo Seat Covers, Duralast Tool Box, Blacked Out Badges, Grill, Front Emblem, Midland CB Radio, Amber Strobes, POWER REAR WINDOW, cup holder LED's, Firestik 3' in bed, console divider, Ultragauge.
    Made the same mistake, but the relay was wired correctly. Terminals on the switch needed to be swapped for some reason.
     

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