Awaking the beast.

My taco has been napping in the garage for 7 months and I'm getting ready to fire it up. It has been on a battery tender. Should I drain the oil? Should I disconnect the coils and turn it over to circulate the oil first? Would this cause an error problem? Should I remove the plugs and turn it over to circulate the oil? I'm open to your suggestions.

 

Open the hood. Check for rodents. Check that its got oil on the dipstick and coolant. start truck. Do a final check under the hood while running for anything outside of the norm.

Close hood, air up tires and drive.


As far as oil, maybe change it a bit sooner, but that depends on when it was changed last.

 

It’s not that long but it won’t hurt to prime it.

Remove fuel pump relay and crank.

 

If you want to be really nice, this is the way. Easy extra 1 min to my above procedure.

 

Naw, check the oil, if it's good run it. Change it at the next scheduled oil change.

 

Bishop, thanks for the tip. If I do that it will still fire a spark but without fuel to make the combustion. Do you happen to know if I'll get a code that will cause other problems. Is this relay under the hood?

 

You can crank it with the fuel pump relay removed and it will not throw a code.

 

Tip. To tag someone like you tried to do Bishop here, it's @Bishop84 or your name @Witness Protection

Otherwise your person of interest may not see your post.

 

@Clearwater Bill
10/4

 

No codes, send it.

 

You can crank without fuel to build oil pressure. Without plugs is easier. Yes you can change the oil after.

a step higher is pour a tiny bit of MMO to do a ring soak. Help get any lube into the ring back. Cranking without plugs to blast any excess out the holes.
But that’s extra work not everyone does. Last time I did that on a different car just to be safe and didn’t have issue. MMO isn’t the only penetrating oil. I also have AeroKroil but never used it for that.

be advised any time you do something like that even if you get the excess out to prevent a hydrolock, the residual will still burn and temporarily smoke out the tailpipe.

I have heard of cars sitting a year and then firing right up so long as the battery is good and fuel had stabil added. Otherwise gas goes stale in a month and can run like shit after until the stale gas is removed either manually or by consuming. But that’s more of an issue with old carb vehicles where stale gas clogs the carb.

typically mechanics (including myself) do an oil priming procedure after a repair when significant engine work has been done. Like say you took pistons out the block. Getting ready to fire it. Same shit as above. Trying to get that oil circulated and up where it needs to be. Pumped into the head. And into the ring pack. To avoid or reduce dryness during the cold start which is wear most wear occurs. And trying to avoid causing a dry scratch to the cylinder walls which could cause problems like oil burning, compression loss, etc

depends how much time you have, etc
If you care about the truck and it’s in your garage then why not
Takes me an hour to pull the plugs so it’s not THAT much work

gotta make sure you’re doing that right and simply not unplugging coils to prevent spark
In which case the rails could still be spraying fuel and you end up with a huge pool of liquid gas just sitting atop the pistons (bad)

generally they say change oil every 6-12mi regardless of miles
I have had oil be $12 a 5l jug and filter $5 so it’s not a big expense
Granted that was Mobil 1 rebate with their water thin oil that I tend to avoid. Despite the sweet price deal it’s known to cause yellow varnish buildup inside the engine.

 

Tribology is a fascinating science isn't it? Which type viscometer do you prefer for your measurements?

I hope you have advised these guys they are making a mistake rolling out new rides filled with this stuff? I mean Porsche has been doing it over 20 years! What a mess!

At least Toyota has avoided the circus.......

• Honda
  • NSX
• Nissan
  • GT-R

• GM
  • Corvette
  • Corvette Grand Sport
  • Corvette Z06
  • COPO Camaro
  • Camaro ZL1
• Mercedes-Benz
  • S65, S65 Coupe, S65 Cabrio
  • SL63, SL65
  • G63, G65
  • GLE63, GLE63 Coupe
  • GLS63
  • CLS63, CLS63 Shooting Brake

• McLaren
  • P1
  • 540C
  • 570S & GT
  • 650S
  • 675LT
  • MP4-12C
  • P1 GTR
  • 570 GT4
  • 650S GT3
• Porsche
  • Boxster
  • Cayman
  • 911
  • Spyder
  • Panamera
  • Macan
  • Cayenne
  Bentley
  • Bentayga
  • Continental Flying Spur
  • Continental GT
  • Continental GTC
  • Mulsanne

• Aston Martin
  • DB9, DB9 Volante
  • Rapide S
  • V12 Vantage Coupe, V12 Vantage Roadster
  • Vanquish, Vanquish Volante

 

I would fire it up and not worry about it. It will have oil pressure to all parts in a few seconds.

 

uh. There’s no measurement.
Engines taken apart with M1 are yellow with varnish. Better oils do not. Porsche guys avoid it saying it’s water thin and burns easily. Which is a viscosity measurement.

but if that’s the oil you want to use go right on ahead.

M1 is not a common factory fill.
and for the few brands that use it, they use a different model of oil from M1 that Is different from what’s at Walmart, costs more, and typically not sold to the regular consumer.

I don’t really care what Bentley does. It’s a Volkswagen. And VW factory fill is usually Castrol. So is Audi that VW also owns. So Bentley likely uses Castrol currently.
Nobody really cares about Aston’s.

Benz and Porsche shops may have M1 formula M, ESP, etc.
which again, is not the same formula as Walmart, nor the same price

people generally switch to different oil after factory fill. Castrol is one of the exceptions. It is a good oil, so people keep using it. My truck probably has Castrol in it right now and the metal inside looks brand new at high miles.

 

@TacoTuesday1
I love the details facts, its how I roll. See you on Taco Tuesday.

 

Key in. Spectacles, testicles, wallet and watch. Fire that Bitch up!

 

I've started many, many vehicles that have been parked years, always completely neglected and often out in the elements, and never agonized over it. If they weren't locked up by time, and ran good when parked... they ran good when started.

Check the air cleaner for animal contamination, make sure the gas is fresh enough and that you have adequate battery, and go for it. If the wiring has been chewed you'll know it soon enough.

The hard parts don't give problems and don't need any special care. It's usually the seals and/or wiring that could need attention. Seven months is a long time in dog years but not in inanimate object years.

 

The stock oil fill cap on my 2000 4cyl definitely said Mobil 1 on it.

 

Good thing these toyota engines aren't picky. Check the fluids, pull the fuel pump relay and crank it for 15-20 seconds. Then fire it up, no big deal