Awesome Tailgate Anti-theft device

You're not alone: I tried: I couldn't either. On a pre-test run after reading here when I was considering getting one of the units from @christian06, I couldn't get it to budge. It was obvious I was either going to blow up my ratchet, or more likely strip the torx screw head in a slip, and end-of-story and back to the hose clamp forever.

The Toyota torque specs on these bolts must be "infinity" at the factory.

 

It is a "security bolt" with reverse-ratchet teeth on the underside of the bolt. Others just drill off the bolt head and reverse-extract the rest, and christain06 sells replacement bolts.

SaBellCo does not have the same issue but is $100. Either way is better than "no protection".

 

Understood. It won't move and I'm really not inclined to drill it out. In the rare times I take my truck to "high-risk" areas: like parked at a trail-head in the mountains for a week somewhere, I remove it and leave it home.

 

Got the device from Chris (thanks for the good service and quick shipping!) and tried to install. Didn't have a T40 so I bought one at Lowe's figuring I'd only need it once until I could get a proper set. It was their house brand, it was cheap and a mistake. Damn thing was hollow and I managed to twist the tip off. I'll buy a proper set tomorrow along with some Kroil.

 

"It is a "security bolt" with reverse-ratchet teeth on the underside of the bolt"
Granted I am not an auto mechanic so I will plead ignorance on this. Does this mean to loosen the bolt it must be turned clockwise i.e. the opposite way than normal?

 

No, do not turn it opposite, it will really clamp down. Us a punch that fits into the T40 and give it a couple of really got strikes, and it will come out much easier.

 

Ooph! Ya: I saw this in my future as well, along with a very hard landing on my backside in the driveway when it went nuclear on me. I think if I had a breaker-bar on it, I would have ended up launched into orbit.

 

you need more than that to lock it

 

If this happened, it is not the end of the world. Drill out the head, and drill the screw out and re-tap. Use M6 or M8 tap forgot which one.
Toyota must use red Loctite on screw, it was a bitch to remove the screw.

 

Is that a question???
I am locking my tailgate with the remote power lock, just not going to use the tuck away small metal key everytime.
and in case I forget, I have the anti-theft metal thing from Christian to deter a quick steal.

 

Once you drill the head off, the remaining piece will unscrew easily, there's no lock right, there's reverse teeth on the underside of the head.

 

Chris I apologize for being a PITA. I can see this is a well made piece of hardware and someone with a little more mechanical aptitude could figure out how to install it. Yeah I could get it off by taking off the tailgate but once the tailgate is back on I don't see how to get to the security screw to tighten it back up.
Can I request a special order with an elongated version so I can attach it to the second screw that is further back which would allow enough room to use the ratchet wench with the T sockets ? It would be worth the extra price to protect a couple of thousand $$$ tailgate. I will give the first one to anyone who wants it and thinks they can figure out how to install it - obviously some people are smart enough to figure it out . . . just not me.

 

If there's room you can slip a box end wrench, (I think a 5/16), over the torx end of your socket and use that to tighten the bolt. That's what I did anyway.

 

OK THX - that sounds like a plan - I knew someone with average intelligence or greater could figure it out.
Chris disregard my babbling.

 

Lol no problem

 

• How does those punches work

 

what size of clamp did you use??

 

It shocks it and loosens it up

 

1 and 3/4" is just right.

 

Just finishing installing mine with a friend whom is a long time certified mechanic. After reading much of this thread we found most of what we had read to be helpful, and incorporated it in our process.
We first began by disconnecting the tailgate limiting cables off of both sides, and turning the tailgate sideways, then laying it carefully in the bed under a sufficient padding. No need to remove any wiring, just carefully turn the tailgate with the drivers side of the tailgate inward into the bed of the truck. This left the passenger side and subject torx bolt easily accessible for us. Again, carefully is the word here as to not put any strain on the tailgate wires. Trust me it can be done.
At this point is when I discovered the factory torx is a T40, non tamper proof head. (2023 Off-road)
I placed a T40 torx socket on the factory bolt to be removed and carefully but significantly struck the torx socket head 2-3 times. Then switched over to a impact hand hammer driver. Make certain that the hand hammer driver and torx socket are not at an angle, a second set of eyes comes in handy in verifying alignment prior to striking. With a 2 pound hammer we struck the hand hammer driver/factory torx socket on the bolt head 3 times. While no movement was noted on the factory torx bolt, our first attempt loosening with a standard 1/2” ratchet on the factory torx bolt, it came loose. Once the factory torx bolt “moved” it was very easy, basically able to be unthreaded by hand.
Note; we did not use any heat, although I suspect it would have aided the process. Las Vegas ambient temps around 45 degrees today.
Reinstalling was relatively easy and the provided tamper proof T45 bolt (which should absolutely be ordered with the bracket) can be installed using a ratchet if one uses an extension and lifts the tailgate about 1/2 way up to provide access to the new torx bolt, the extension allows for ample clearance out past the taillights. Again, a second set of hands comes in handy.

Good luck all