Awesome Tailgate Anti-theft device

Awesome thx again my friend

 

Is it just me, or do most of the truck projects executed by the mechanical geniuses in TW ultimately involve hammering on something that does not normally need a hammer?

 

This uses a hammer. It’s what several have used on here to get this very stubborn screw out. But ‘hammering’ also shocks the screw, similarly to banging on a tie-rod to ‘shock’ it loose.

 

No impact hammer solution that works great. Ten minute install.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1584822558/toyota-tacoma-gen3-2016-23-tailgate?click_key=61901a3a6fb3895c2fd6d69209aa3b5bb622d47f:1584822558&click_sum=fa88afb1&external=1&rec_type=ss&ref=landingpage_similar_listing_top-1

 

Might be an easy install but also easy to remove. Those two bolts are in the wide open and easily removed. I don’t see that preventing a tailgate theft. This one, however, has a T45 security screw that is not easy to get to and will be impossible to get out with some red lock tight on it. Unless you take your time and use a torch.

 

Just get the optional security screws and washers for cables. Same level of protection. Better yet, install the keyed Sabelco solution that does not come off for thieves or the owner.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/166366...a24358359%3A1663665532&organic_search_click=1

 

Some have reported a good hammer hit (not being sarcastic about skill levels of people this time) can shatter the steel of the SaBellCo. But I am not willing to risk my $110 to test it. Even if true, unless someone knows or suspects this to try to steal the tailgate, the giant washer on the cable should slow thieves down just enough to make them move on to another truck.

And I test-remove it every few months to verify it has not clogged/seized.

 

They do work ok, (SaBellCo), until you lose the key, then you can try the hammer technique, lol.
The anti theft device has no key to misplace.

 

Just a thought. You might want to touch up the ring and other parts off the bolt with rust resistant paint.

 

Knew that. But I keep spare keys to everything in the same place. I still have the "extract/insert key" for my Yakima rack locks and the 6 keys for the core, keep them in the same place as my spare Tacoma keys. I sometimes forget exactly which kitchen drawer that "bag of keys" is in, but it shows up.

 

I have a blazing blue pearl one for sale with a security bolt. I tried and tried taking off the factory bolt and ended up stripping it. I'd rather not drill and potentially mess it up further.

 

Send it back for a full refund

 

You my friend are a rare breed,

 

Too stupid to know when I am setting myself up for disaster?

 

That’s not rust. Oxidation from the torch. It wipes off. Just didn’t do it for the pics

 

Dude! I have spare keys to shit I haven't had for 20+ years...I just don't know which keys those are!

 

Those Yakima rack lock cores still have value ... a pack of 4 is still $60 -- same design for years and works on current products.

 

I ordered the 3rd gen A/T device last year and he shipped it very fast so thanks for that! very happy with its quality.

But holy hell is this bolt a PITA.
2021 SR5 SB with 40k miles (never seen a cold winter / salt / any rust) but that hinge bolt is STUCK.

PB blasted it many times. after torx bit started slipping and rounding the hole, I used an impact screwdriver, no go. Then dremel'd a slot in the head so I could use the biggest/beefiest slotted impact screwdriver tip. Bolt will not budge.

Took off entire inner plastic shell to see if the bolt was welded in (some posts on TW hint at the bolt being tack welded) it was not, so I sprayed tons of PB on the exposed end of the bolt. Letting it soak for a few days until I can cut a deeper slot in head for more impacting with a 5 pound sledge hammer (once again). Its not a damn left-hand thread bolt is it?

sidenote: I did try to fit the new A/T device around the hinge, but I cannot get it to slip around the hinge at all because the squishy foam stuff (that is painted over) blocks me from pushing the metal cover between the hinge and the tailgate outer sheetmetal/foam bit. Any hints for even test-fitting the device around the hinge while I wait for PB to work?

Ive been thinking about going to a car mechanic shop and asking for assistance in removing the bolt, since I've spent the last 9 months trying and failing to get the damned bolt out :/

 

Better ... ask "da man" ... @christian06

 

He did his part of this purchase perfectly, so I was hoping not to have to bother him, but ask all you instead

Been a few new posts about this problem since I attempted install last fall and read hundreds of pages on this topic, so I do see there is no weld, its not reverse thread, and I had hammer tapped the T40 bit in first attempt, but that didnt work (hence the slipping after many tries and having to cut a flathead groove).

Getting my A/T-D past the thick sheetmetal bulge/weld/painted foam may not be as difficult as it is to get this damn bolt out. Looks like I may have to drill the head off and use my bolt-out tools if soaking with PB a few more days and another try with an impact-screwdriver still won't work :/

Been wanting to get this device on since last fall