Axle seal leaking, again...

Just had my right rear axle seal replaced and within 200 miles it's leaking again. I bought all my parts from Toyota and had them installed by a reputable shop.

I did check my differential vent and it "rattles" and spins freely. Any ideas as to why it's leaking again? Could the vent be plugged even though it seems to be working?

thanks

 

I'll give that a try tomorrow, if that turns out to be the issue is the new seal junk? I'm sure my brand new shoes are soaked again....F%@K!!

 

When I did the daughter's 99, I turned a seal driver on my lathe for the inner seal, I tried two different kits and neither one had a properly sized driver in it, including my Snap On kit. No matter how I turned the driver, on or off face, the one that should have worked damaged the seal. Luckily I caught it and remedied the situation before stabbing the axles. I also made a seal puller plate for my slide hammer, sucks trying to get an already slick seal out with that stupid little lip style puller.

 

if you got a lot of miles on truck, if you did not replace the axle bearing and just the seals that why its leaking again

 

I also turned one up. The H.F. kit that was recommended to me did not have a diameter that I liked.

 

The position of the retainer/aka seal ring is crucial to the new seal not leaking. It is important to measure where the retainer/aka seal ring is located before removing it. If the shiny "wear ring" on the retainer ring isn't centered on the flat section, crowd the retainer ring in the necessary direction to make the wear ring centered upon assembly.

 

If the seal failed, odds are the shaft it's riding on is messed up, or the seal was improperly installed.
A new seal on shaft with a groove worn into it, is a bad combination. Replace what it seals, or it needs to be sleeved.

 

Although the seal could have been installed wrong it is more than likely the position of the retainer ring where the rubber seal rides is the culprit. The position of the retainer ring is typically the culprit on leaky Tacoma and 4Runner axles. Using the "wear ring" on the retainer as a gauge for positioning is the key to a successful repair. Unfortunately there is a limit on the amount of data that his image hosting account can use each month so the pics are not showing up at the moment. Check back for pics in a few weeks or try to reach out to someone with the pics.

 

There is a ton of info on this subject (ABS type) on this and every other forum. There are many tips such as using RTV as a pressing lube for the retainer and the seal. If you genuinely fail in a search let us know. Be aware that the Coffee fellow's solution is just a band aid to cover bad seal installs, not a bad band aid but a band aid non the less. Also the end of the 4R axle tube is different than the Taco.

An 04 should have come with the new type seal from the factory and have the retainer in the correct position. Regardless, it is super easy to botch the seal install and not even see/know it, so it's always best to check where the new seal ends up riding on the retainer.

This thread (1 of many) has some good info on seal drivers, applications, the TSB and some history.

 

I used grease on the retainer ring to verify proper location prior to reinstallation of the axles

 

Logger, I did a quick search and see that you have searched this subject in the past.
For others or in case you missed something.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/335262-axle-seal-tsb.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/274582-proper-way-press-new-rear-wheel-bearing.html

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/277005-stubborn-inner-axle-seal.html

Here is the Coffee fellow's post from TTORA with my counter, pics show up for me.

 

Thanks for all the effort and help so far guys.

I removed the breather and blew compressed air through it, it's working correctly.

I've noticed that it's leaking from the drum side, but also the backing plate where it meets the axle housing looks wet too. Are there two seals an inner and outer?

I spoke with the shop that did the install, they are willing to install another seal and check the axle for wear. They "checked" the bearing when it was apart and I have not noticed any humming or noise while driving. I can't help but think that 9 months of gear oil soaking that bearing can't be good for it...

 

Although the 4Runner axle housing (8.0" housing, elocker and non-elocker) is not necked down on the ends like the Tacoma elocker axle housing I am 99% certain the seals are the same. If the OP is talking about an 8.4" Tacoma axle housing then the seals and their position could be different, I do not know.

 

Yes, the seals are the same for the 4R and the Taco 8-8.4. The 4R has the ABS sensor part clocked to a different position than the Taco. That is all that makes it "different" to me. Is the 4R seal/retainer geometry itself different? I have no idea, just throwing it out there. I know as a fact, from numerous successful installs that the retainer does not need to be reversed to get "centered" seal contact on a Tacoma.
Only the ABS rears have this "tricky" seal/retainer issue as a result of the upgraded seal. The non ABS rears (same seal) are just installed flush with the end of the tube. A drunk monkey can handle that. And FWIW, that is why the flanged "super seals" sold by Marlin and others will not fit an ABS application.

 

Just curious, is there a method to correctly installing these seals for ABS, aside from using the correct seal driver and not mucking it up when sliding the axle through?
I guess what I'm asking is: when you refer to this seal being "tricky", I'd like to know how you install this seal and not make it leak (assuming the axle isn't worn). Sorry if I'm dragging this out guys, I just want to get this figured out.

 

There is an inner seal that sits in the axle housing.

The outer seal blew on my driver side recently but I can't be of much help. As they were the ABS version, I dropped the axle shaft assemblies off at the dealership and let them deal with it. 2 weeks of driving on them and they are still holding.

 

Everything is in the links I posted and there are lots more threads out there. In a nutshell, outside of the seal/retainer location issue and other things like bad bearings/shafts the chances of success are dramatically increased with the correct driver, skill, experience and knowledge of the potential issues with this particular install.
These seals are so easy to deform it's not funny. If they go in a little cocked and the installer "corrects" it by angling the driver a little, chances are the seal will get deformed. It has to go in straight the first time.