AZ BS Thread 4²0

got this one at Mingus. Fortunately wasn’t deep, but swapped it onto the spare for peace of mind until I upgrade sometime in the next year.

 

Damn, you too? I was out of town for work. Wife goes to store, notices her vans tire light on. Goes to Discount, nail in one tire. They fix it.
She goes to the store, on way back. Bamn, another tire light. Goes back to Discount. They're like "Your back? Huh?" Different tire, huge wheel weight right through the center tread block.
Welp, new tire on order; they put on a used tire as a quick spare since the stock donut was harder to take out apparently.
I run a good true all season on her van. So, they usually come from CO or northern states.

 

How much do they weigh?

 

shot in the dark, maybe around 70ea?

installable by one person. Beefy enough to put a Jack underneath and they won’t budge.

edit to say not easy enough that I want to uninstall one and weigh it.

 

new cars dont even have spares.

if you are in a pinch just run the spare and plug that unit at your local llantaria and prob never use it anyway.

I just priced new tires. I feel ya.

 

Discount has 6 months same as cash. Opportunity knocks my friend.

 

Craigslist has no shortage of take-offs for all manner of prices.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/wto/d/chandler-r17-rims-and-tires/7395171225.html
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/wto/d/tempe-17-toyota-4runner-oem-wheels-and/7389591117.html
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/wto/d/phoenix-17-toyota-runner-trd-rims-and/7399944661.html

 

No, you are wrong. The original “hinge” that GFC used was Polyolefin which is a type of polyethylene, literally what @AZoverlandTaco said his brothers hinges are made from, HDPE. Polyolefin supposedly is good for a million cycle lifespan and GFC quickly learned that is not the case in the world of popup campers. HDPE is actually worse in this scenario than LDPE or Polyolefin, due to its stronger stiffer nature and tendency to crack when bent/flexed. Feel free to read up on this some more before telling people I am mistaken in my understanding of the product.

For further reading specific to this subject, here is the link to the years long thread on the GFC forums documenting every detail about the polyethylene hinge issues and resolutions.

https://forum.gofastcampers.com/t/what-s-up-with-hinges-breaking/136/7

My GFC has the updated hinges because the original ones failed and had to be replaced by an actual mechanical hinge. Please tell me more about how Im wrong.

 

I deserve that, I should have been more clear instead of giving the feeling of calling you out, especially on the word hinge.

I'm not going to argue because I'm not fluent enough to make the engineering points, and your not wrong,. But it's not the same application.

The same thing happened with Alu Cab

There's fancy engineering stuff about weight, moment of movement and vibration, fixed fulcrum points and just the thickness of the material itself.

It's not the same thing and GFC failed because of those points where folding kayaks aren't failing.

I know, campers aren't the same as folding kayaks, but the material size and application is much more simar than the hinge GFC tried

 

Thanks for the offer. Already ordered it. Got a good discount on it too.

 

It's on its way to me

Alucab Canopy Camper Delivery by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

@prise it should arrive this upcoming week

 

Man @prise new camper is going to look pretty sweet.

 

Giggity

 

Hell yeah man gonna be nice!!

 

I forgot what the thread is called on TW with house renovations. maybe folks on this thread can help me out.

Is this hose bib soldered or screwed on? Can I just replace the stem?

 

Thats on the other forum site

And that looks to be soldered there and it should be screwed on to the 90 degree behind the stucco.

 

Its soldered, and any repair will just buy you some time with the hard water, once its done its done and its best to replace the whole hose bib.

I would unsolder the bib and solder on a male (or female) adaptor for easy replacing in the future,

 

MAP Gas is your friend. Use a wet rag as a heat sink when you put the new one on. Should take you 1hr and you get to play w a torch.

 

So I've been granny-driving everywhere and have gotten my average tank up to the 21's and am getting 22 during highway-heavy trips. Even my city driving is hovering in the 21's.

Big improvement over the high 17's I was getting when wringing it out like an old Honda.

On another note, I installed an ARB recovery point, albeit partially.

I say partially because the last bits of hardware are a bit of a mess. I don't know of anyone in AZ that has one of these, but maybe experience might dictate the order of things here.



In gray are the five pieces of hardware that ARB insists must be installed. However I have one grainy picture to work with and they do not instruct me on the order.

I had a talk about it with @Man of Steel TRD and guessed it might be M12 Bolt (A1), Washer (A2), Weld Nut/Stick (B), Crush Tube (C3) and M12 Nut (C4). I honestly don't know if the last nut and Crush Tube would even work at that point.

I should point out that there are two crush tubes included. The other, longer tube was appropriately installed. I've also asked this in the corresponding thread regarding this product and didn't get any really helpful answers so I figured I'd try here before I try to wrangle someone on the phone.

I would've guessed that the crush tube would go in Hole 1, but at least when approaching from Side A, it didn't seem to want to go in.

 

I get 16 on a good day