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B.A.M.F Weld on Rock Slider Install

Discussion in 'Bay Area Metal Fabrication' started by JLee, May 2, 2012.

  1. May 2, 2012 at 9:00 AM
    #1
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    Okay so i get a lot of requests on how to install my sliders so here is a instructional thread on how I install them here.

    Tools
    1. Two 6 ton jack stands
    2. 4 clamps
    3. 4.5" angle grinder with flap disk or wire wheel
    4. pen
    5. 140amp welder or above

    For Painting
    1. paint thinner and rags
    2. 4.5" angle grinder and wire wheel or scuffing pad
    3. 3 cans of primer
    4. 3 cans of the paint of your choice ( I use rustoleum truck bed coating)



    Step #1 Taking inventory
    First things first unwrap your sliders and make sure everything is there. you should have 8 frame plates, 6 bent plates & 2 smaller flat plates. You should also have 8 gussets the gussets are located in one of the legs wrapped in tape.

    Step #2 Prep for paint
    Take your sliders and wipe them down with paint thinner or acetone the sliders ship with a oil coating on them to prevent rust.

    The hippy thinner I use :p
    [​IMG]

    The sliders right after you unwrap them.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A quick rub down with thinner.
    [​IMG]

    After hitting with a wire wheel
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Step #3 Painting

    Take your sliders and set them somewhere that your not going to get over spray on and prime them.

    At least 2 coats of a self etching primer is recommended
    [​IMG]

    DON'T paint all the way down the legs you need bare metal to weld to.
    [​IMG]

    After you prime paint your sliders and allow to dry. I paint sliders 72 hours before the install allowing them to cure this will avoid chipping and scraping them up during the install "Save that for the trail :D"

    Step #4 Installing the sliders

    First set your jack stands along side of your truck and lay the sliders on them locating them where you want to mount them.
    [​IMG]

    Then take your frame plates and place them on the frame with the clamps (pic will be added soon)


    Mark your frame for cleaning NOTE some 2nd Gen models have a rivet/rivets in the way you will have to modify your frame plate to fit around this rivet/rivets.
    [​IMG]




    Now this is where your choices come in. You can tack the slider to the frame plates and remove them from your frame and fully weld them. Or you can tack the frame plates to the frame and weld your sliders to them after.

    Were going to show you both but for now here is the frame plates welded to the frame method.

    After your happy with the location of the slider mark your frame as shown above and remove the sliders from the truck. Now take your 4.5" angle grinder and flap disk and remove the line you just did on the frame like so.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now that your frame is all clean and ready to weld tack all 4 of your frame plates to the frame (NOTE the flat plate go's on the front leg)

    [​IMG]

    Once all 4 plates have been fitted and tacked remove the sliders and fully weld the plates to the frame. NOTE with this method it is easier to get a good weld at the top of the frame plate.
    [​IMG]

    Once all 4 plates have been welded to the frame place the sliders back up to the truck and set your gap between the pinch weld. Is what I do is tack the rear leg at the desired gap and move to the front leg and tack that one so you have it even all the way down the slider. (NOTE) the leg tolerances are all on the + side as we try to cut them all the same length some may be longer or shorter. If you find this just take your grinder and sand down the leg/legs until the sliders fit tight on the frame plates.

    Adding pic soon

    Now that your tacked your slider in place stand back and make sure you like the location and check the gap you want at least 1/4" from the pinch weld to allow body movement. AND CHECK YOUR DOORS MAKE SURE THEY ALL OPEN BEFORE YOU FULLY WELD YOUR SLIDERS ON!!!!


    Now just fully weld your sliders on.
    [​IMG]


    Let the welds cool and prime and paint your done Now do beat the hell out of them!!!!
     
  2. May 2, 2012 at 3:09 PM
    #2
    rhion82

    rhion82 The One The Only

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    Awesome thanks Jerry. Now I can install the sliders I just got in!!
     
  3. May 2, 2012 at 3:20 PM
    #3
    MartyMcfly

    MartyMcfly Time Traveler

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    Very well laid out.
    Makes me want to buy sliders, just so I can follow these instructions. :thumbsup:
     
  4. May 2, 2012 at 4:09 PM
    #4
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    I will give you a 2% discount :rolleyes:
     
  5. May 2, 2012 at 7:41 PM
    #5
    htuong95

    htuong95 Have a nice day

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    My truck is now famous! :yay:
     
  6. May 2, 2012 at 11:26 PM
    #6
    SJginger

    SJginger Well-Known Member

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    About how long was the install
     
  7. May 3, 2012 at 12:21 AM
    #7
    htuong95

    htuong95 Have a nice day

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    About 1.5 hours.
     
  8. May 3, 2012 at 6:32 AM
    #8
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    I have done quite a few installs so don't expect 1.5 hours from just anyone :D. For most people expect about 2.5 to 3 hours to install sliders.
     
  9. May 11, 2012 at 1:36 PM
    #9
    ffdawson

    ffdawson Adventurer

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    any concern with melting the wires/lines that run on the backside of the frame? considering removing them for the install... kind of a PITA though.
     
  10. May 11, 2012 at 1:59 PM
    #10
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    i don't think any factory wires run in the frames. i know your hard lines are in there on the driver side but they are off the frame by about 1/4"
     
  11. May 11, 2012 at 5:23 PM
    #11
    SJginger

    SJginger Well-Known Member

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    I just did the weld up today the step by step was awesome, and those pines your talking about I had no prob of melting the only melting going on was when I had to notch the frame plate and cought my glove on fire :)

    Awesome write up jerry, would u like finish pictures after i paint them?
     
  12. May 11, 2012 at 5:29 PM
    #12
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    Awesome man post pictures.
     
  13. May 12, 2012 at 8:10 AM
    #13
    ffdawson

    ffdawson Adventurer

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    yeah thats what i was referring to. cool, no need to remove.
    heading to my buddy's shop for weld up now!!:D
     
  14. May 12, 2012 at 8:16 AM
    #14
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    Those lines are off the frame enough you shouldn't need to move them.
     
  15. May 24, 2012 at 7:42 PM
    #15
    NoSoup4You

    NoSoup4You Well-Known Member

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    hey Jerry .. just reading through this, and it looks like you welded the gussets on before painting - did you do a full mockup to get them in place or just weld them on flat against the egde of the slider?
     
  16. May 24, 2012 at 9:24 PM
    #16
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    I just bring them to the edge of the leg and weld them on.
     
  17. May 24, 2012 at 10:01 PM
    #17
    NoSoup4You

    NoSoup4You Well-Known Member

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    cool .. thanks!
     
  18. Aug 12, 2012 at 5:05 PM
    #18
    Madjik_Man

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    Knob question:

    I have a wire wheel that attaches to my drill. Can I use that to accomplish that step above? My only concern is the swirl marks my wire brush will put in the metal. The pics above show very minimal swirl marks, I have a feeling my wire brush would not be as fine/friendly.

    For reference the thing I would use is the thing sitting on the drill case in the pic below

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Aug 12, 2012 at 6:50 PM
    #19
    JLee

    JLee [OP] The Man! Vendor

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    The cup brush would work fine there is a lot of marks in the tube from the wire wheel but it gives the paint something to grab. The swirl marks will not be deep if you really nice you can sand it down after the cup brush.
     
  20. Aug 12, 2012 at 6:52 PM
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    Supra TT

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