Backup camera anytime Mod

I tried to make this as simple as possible I hope you can do this mod without much confusion.

Here we go

1. First you have to remove the colored trim around your screen and center air vents on your truck, on mine it is the orange piece. It will come off very easily by just pulling on the passenger side of it.

2. Theres 4 10mm bolts on all four corners of the head unit (HU), take them off. This will release the HU and now you have access to the wiring on the back.

3. Take a picture of The back of the HU with all the harnesses connected so that you have a reference, some of the harnesses tend to hide once you unplug them and if you don't know that you are missing one you wont look for it. Also from what I could tell all harnesses are different so you shouldn't be able to connect them in the wrong place.

4. Disconnect all the harnesses

5. You need to tap into 2 different wires.
a) The reverse sensing wire (Gray)
b) A 12V source (White)

6. Find the connector on the following image, the gray reverse sensing wire will be on the top row second contact from the left.


7. Find the connector on the following image (for reference: this connector's wires are also bundled with a blue connector) the white +12V wire will be on the top row right corner.
You might be able to find other +12V sources, this is the first usable one I found so I went with it. Let us know if you find another viable alternative.


8. These two wires are all you need to tap into, you might be able to find another +12V source but this is the one I found and used.

9. Connect the wires per the following schematic.


10. I used a single pole double throw switch meaning that one of the three terminals in the switch is connected to one of the other two depending on the switch position. (two inputs one output) connect the common terminal (#2 on the diagram) to the gray wire comming from the HU.
Connect the other terminals (#1 #3) to the +12V source and the gray wire going into the car) it doesn't matter which one goes to which, if you flip them the switch positions will reverse, that's it.

11. Reconnect the HU, test it and you're set!

I left out all the little details like insulating the splices and such but if you're attempting this you probably already know all that, make sure all your connections are solid and insulated to avoid any issues.

 

Nice! Is the switch you used next to the ECT button on your first pic?

 

Question: I know you mention in the other thread no diode, but are you certain your reverse lights do not come on when switch is on?

 

Yes I used a toggle switch with a red cover, aircraft style. I love it.

 

Yes, im positive, the normal circuit is cut off completely when I flip the switch making it impossible for the 12v to run back into the system and turn the lights on.

 

Awesome, I see it now. Your terminal 2 and 3 kills the reverse when switch is flipped. Great work. They should merge all these thread together..

 

Good write up. Picture for #6 is not showing for me at the moment.

 

some of your links are broken.

Still waiting for someone to make a video on how to remove the different panels on the dash.

 

Thanks for reporting the links, they are fixed now, images should show

 

Maybe they're not out there because it's pretty simple? I don't know. Either way here's what I do:

Radio trim: Start pulling the right edge of the radio trim straight out and it'll release. Work your way left and the rest of it will come straight off.

Driver door threshold plate: pull straight up.

Driver kick panel: undo the "nut" in the front and pull the panel towards the shifter, it'll come right off.

Lower panel below steering wheel: remove the three 10mm bolts across the bottom and start pulling the panel edges straight out. Work your way around and the rest all comes out. Undo the wire connectors and hood cable.

Instrument panel trim: lower the steering wheel and start pulling the trim straight out from the right edge. Work your way leftward.

Climate control panel: remove the radio, then the panel pulls straight out.

Driver A pillar: with thin plastic trim tool get under edge of the SRS plastic piece and pop it out. Remove the 10mm bolt. Trim piece then comes off.

That's as far as I've gone on various projects. Some pics in my DIY threads.

 

Just curious, why do this?

 

Great write up, and that switch... Awesome

Frank

 

Check on a trailer or similar
Verify that you've pulled forward past a marking or driveway while curb parking, without shifting to reverse to check, shifting to D to adjust, shifting to reverse to check, etc.
Probably other stuff

 

Ohh, ok. Thought you were using it as a rear view mirror on the road or something.

 

Two biggest benefits for me on this will be:
Pulling forward through a parking lot spot I can see when my bumper gets past the line.
Street parking in a nearby city square area has markings on the pavement to delineate the spots; if I can see the marks in the camera both when in D and in R it'll be nice.

Nothing earth shattering, but when the cost is a bit of time and an inexpensive SPDT switch...

 

Nice write up

 

Does this mod work with the Premium tech package with Nav ? I am now totally confused as to which mod to use , FreshMexicanTaco or brendanwebster911 for the TDR OR with premium tech without jbl package .

 

I am pretty sure this mod will work with or without Tech package. There are several options as to which way to do this mod. SPDT switch and no Diode. SPST with Diode. Choices.!!!

 

Both methods should work on P&T or non-P&T .... (from what I've read, not actual personal experience)
Diodes are pretty reliable and all but I feel better when the connection is completely cut off. I don't know why it would ever happen but a high enough voltage could jump backwards through the diode. And even then, it's probably not going to cause any major damage but... I'll stick to the even safererrrr side

 

Do they make switches that completely cut off the connection (SPDT) that look similar to OEM switches or are they all SPST?