Bad battery or alternator?

So I got my battery tested after turning the truck on and driving like 2 mins to auto zone and the autozone person told me it was bad, got it tested like 45 mins later after going to get lunch and going back to parts store and they tested it again saying it was good. Alternator & starter both tested good as well, what do you think?
2017 with oem battery, 46k miles

EDIT: Has trouble turning over the first couple times after not being on for awhile but once turned on, has no issues after

 

It's the battery (shit Johnson Controls)

 

Battery is probably toast. 2-3 years is usually about all people get out of the stock one.

 

Battery tested at 100% charged the second time, would a bad battery do that?

 

Advance Auto Parts tested mine and said it was good to go and it died again. The engine wouldn't turn over at all, just click. Put a new battery in and all good. Mine was almost 3 years and 31k miles. I don't know why they test good and are really bad. This is the second Toyota battery that has done that with me. Of course, it could be the highly trained employee at Advance Auto Parts.

 

Loose cable.

 

Sounds like bad battery. It may charge to 100% but the state of health on the battery could be bad.

 

The battery can have a good charge but not enough cranking power, never know? At exactly 3 years both mine and my son's batteries went bad. Costco has the best warranty on their batteries because they don't pro rate a bad battery on the second one if you needed one. You get a full refund even if the battery goes bad on month 35 on a 36 month battery. Can't beat that IMO $.02

 

These trucks have been known to have crappy batteries. Had to replace mine about a year ago. Did an "emergency" repair (page 32 of your warranty booklet) because it was on a Sunday and the dealer was closed. Bought an AGM battery and got reimbursed 100% by Toyota a month or so later because I was still under warranty. One bad cell was all it took to keep my battery from holding a charge. My symptoms started like yours, and shortly thereafter it wouldn't crank at all, within a day or two. Could check your water levels, but mine were fine. It was hot when I had my issue (+110°F at the time) which is why I thought some water had evaporated exposing a cell or two. You'd be surprised how much a little evaporation will kill a battery.

 

Put a battery in it

 

I normally don't like to play swap-a-part and actually diagnose what's wrong firsthand, but in this case, even if it's not the battery (which it most likely is) you're due for a new one anyways. Belts, brakes, hoses, tires, batteries,,,,, there's just some things I always try to replace before failure, they're just not worth the risks of attempting to squeeze every last penny out of.

 

Put your battery on a battery tender that has the capability to repair the battery, or put in a new battery

 

OEM batteries are such a crap shoot. I replaced mine after 3.5 years. Our Sienna battery is going on 6.5 years now. Go figure. Personally, I blame all the increased electronic gizmos.

 

BS..... a battery tender CAN NOT REPAIR a battery.

OEM batteries are not high quality. Most will last about 3 years. Aftermarket batteries will last about 5-6 years.

Sounds like your OEM battery is headed for the ICU then the morgue.

Replace it. Get the most CCA you can with the longest life.

 

It means it is getting charged, but it is losing charge far too fast. You should be able to let your truck sit for a couple of weeks and start it without issue.

 

Test the battery under load with the lights and heater on and it will probably show that it's bad.

 

Oh ok

 

Advanced Auto told me the condition of the battery in the wife's car is UNDEFINED. It's clearly bad, but their diagnostic machine wouldn't get signal from it well enough to determine the condition. But the car barely starts and the battery goes dead if you listen to the radio for 5 minutes with the car off. That was 4 months ago....it's still kinda working.

 

Oh yeah? What's a good battery manufacturer?

 

Sure, you're testing right after charging. Battery is losing it's charge, unable to hold a charge, and amps are crap. Amps start the truck, not voltage.
Zim