Bad clutch pedal

I'm new here and I just put a new clutch kit in my truck and clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. After bleeding the clutch by someone else the clutch pedal is perfect but after a day or so the clutch pedal gets week again and engages at the floor instead of halfway up. I have done this three times and every time after about a day or so gets weak again. Any suggestions? I have a 99 Tacoma sr5 V6.

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it? Bench bleeding is a PITA, but for some vehicles you can't get around it.
It's also very important that the master is level during bleeding, on the truck or the bench.

If so, check your reservoir. If it is losing any fluid then you have a leak somewhere.
A new master and slave doesn't mean that they are with out flaws. Check behind the slave's boot and around the master's shaft for wetness.
If you have a leak, upon take up you will suck air into the leak, causing the need to bleed again. This can be past the shaft seals.

 

I don't think they were bench bled and I could not find any leaks will it take sometime with out bench bleeding them?

 

you wont get it right unless you bench bleed.

 

If you can get your hands on a piece of line that you can run out of the master and into a bottle, you may be able to bleed it installed. You may have to jack up the truck so that the cylinder is level.

You can also keep doing what you are doing. Eventually enough air may be eliminated that you are satisfied with the results. With wear over time though you will need the full stroke of the pressure plate to release it, so pay the piper now.

 

I kinda have the same problem, but I replaced mine about 7 months ago. When I first did it went to shit in about a week, but it wasn't anything hydraulic, it was the bushing on the rod that connects the pedal to the master that crapped out. Replaced that and it was perfect again. Now I think I either have to re bleed, or the cheap Napa master cylinder is going bad already

 

I can't stress the importance of getting the air out of new master cylinder. It's a small cylinder, so a small bubble reduces your throw to the clutch since it will compress.

 

I have never in my whole life every bench bleed anything but for maybe the first time 45 years ago.

With no bleeding problems!!

I would venture a flare fitting connection drawing in air or bad bleeder valve

Maybe just poor quality parts .

Aisin Aftermarket for the win

 

I didn't bench bleed, I did clutch master and slave cylinder at the same time, gravity bled for a while, then used one of the pressurized power bleeder deals, worked perfectly, and has held up like I said for months, but now something is up.


FYI I didn't mean to thread jack at all, just seems like a similar issue.

 

How would you go about "bench bleeding" one of these?

It looks like I am about to have to tackle this issue, so I was curious if any of you had any suggestions.

I bought a new slave cylinder, but I did not get the Aisin. Was this a mistake, if so, should I consider returning my non-Aisin replacement back to the auto parts store?

Edit: I bought a "Car Quest" replacement. I have been told Car Quest and NAPA are usually okay. Is there any truth to this?

 

I Didnt watch the video but youtube it if it doesnt make sense.

 

EDIT!!! I forgot we were talking about the clutch, but it is the same procedure.

Hey OP.

Some aftermarket master cylinders have a bleeding screw. Most likely you don't, and in that case you have a couple of options.:
1. Cover painted surfaces around and under your brake master cylinder. Put a rag underneath to catch fluid. You can become your own bleeding screw. Take off the line(s) to the clutch master cylinder and block them off with your fingers. Have someone slowly press your clutch while you allow air to escape. Seal the holes off with your fingers before you allow the helper to release the pedal. Repeat until you have solid streams of fluid.

2. If you have one, some have had luck using a vacuum pump using either plastic fittings or funnel fittings. I think best practice is to pull vacuum on the rear most hose first so as to not pull air back into the cylinder.

3. The classic way to handle it is with some stubby brake lines attached to the master cylinder and bent to go either in the reservoir or a bottle of fluid. Pump until there aren't any bubbles.