Bad Door Lock Actuators?

Mine has been out for over a year and I'm too lazy to do anything about it. The fob and key both still work, and so do the electronic controls, the only thing is the little indicator on the inside of the door does not flip at all.

I can still move the indicator by hand, but it does not affect whether the door is locked or not. The lock must be controlled by fob, key, door lock button.

I'll fuck with it if it ever gets worse. As it stands, I really don't care that the little indicator doesn't react.

 

When the remote entry works, my door will unlock. The manual lock works from the inside as well. I just cannot unlock or lock my door now with the key. The key worked prior to me removing the locking mechanism.

Any ideas as to what I was doing wrong in trying to get the halves separated?

 

I went back through the procedure and I was able to get the two halves apart and fix the problem of my key not working. Thanks for these walk-throughs, they really helped me.

Now I can fix my brothers and my friends sons' trucks.

 

Why wasn't the key working?

 

I wasn't aware of the "stem" that comes off of the key hole that has to insert into a groove on the locking mechanism. It was an easy fix once I saw what needed to be done.

I think the first time that I tried to fix it, I had a little too much to drink, which caused "drunken errors" to occur.

Sober me fixed everything pretty easily.

 

Okay, got mine done last night, we'll see how long it stays. I couldn't get the damn motor apart to clean the posts. So I figured, I can't hurt anything so I sprayed a very small amount of break cleaner in the openings of the plastic end, then used compressed air to blow dry it. (I figured worst that could happen is it still doesn't work, or blow shit up which would be kind of cool)

I took a few pics of the steps that I'll do a small right up on, but most importantly I wanted to post a pic of the actuator just in case you do what I did. Mine fell apart and I took a while to figure out the way it goes together since none of the pics I saw on here were of our actual actuator (at least not the rear drivers side).

I'll update in a few months to see how well it holds up; I know a lot of you report it works for a bit.

 

Please post pics. I have both my rears out and will try to fix within the next week. Thanks!

 

So if you've got them out. I still haven't done a full write up but here is a quick and dirty (of just the actuators):






I used break cleaner, I know another person on here used electrical parts cleaner. When spraying, I did the smallest spray/burst I could possibly do. Then in the same openings I sprayed a can of compressed air.


Reassemble.

Let me know if you have any questions, good luck.

 

Crap, I just saw all of my wonderful text is too small. Son of a bitch. If you can't blow them up, let me know and I can re-write or explain what they say.

 

That should help a lot. Thank you!! I'll probably attempt both my rear doors next weekend.

 

Sounds good, let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to get the pics blown up so the text is bigger and readable.

 

I did this and got the motor working again, but rushed and forgot to verify the linkage working properly before shutting the door. Now the door lock functions but the latch doesn't and the door is completely stuck. It won't open from the inside or out. I'm thinking I'll have to drill the assembly and break it apart from inside until the latch releases. Anyone else make this mistake? Don't rush this job, check and double check before you shut that door. Any advice on how to get the door open is appreciated.

 

Yikes! I'll take a look at mine and see if I can see anyway this can be done. Right off hand can you remove the handle/lever and reach in through there?

 

Hey, thanks for the reply. I got the door open by drilling out the box from the inside. It was a royal pain but eventually I hit the right spot to release the latch!

 

I was looking and I didn't see many damage free options, except something like what you did. Hope the hole isn't too big. Glad you got it.

 

Thanks. No hole at all, since I had door panel off already. Just stuck a drill in from the inside and drilled out the box. No damage to the truck at all, just had to buy one actuator box. Fixed the other doors myself, taking my time not to make the same mistake!

 

OH, gotcha, I thought this was after you had put the panel on. In that case, I did do that too. I don't remember how I got it undone, but no drilling involved. Glad you got it either way.

 

If I'm understanding the problem correctly, this is a very easy fix, 2 minutes after you get the door panel off. The cable for the switch came out of the actuator.

 

Just so you know, the same company that makes Brakleen also makes an electrical cleaning product. Same red can but is specifically meant for cleaning electrical components. It seems to work pretty well in my experience.

I did that also but, fortunately, I was able to reach in and cycle the actuator by hand. Sucks you had to drill yours to get it to release.

 

For anyone having this issue, it might be easier to buy the replacement motors on eBay. I did so, and had my locks apart and back together in about 1.5 hours repaired and working like new. Search for "

$16 FC280PC Surplus Deal USA 4 Pack - 20mm D Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125, Long D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine

FC280PC". You'll need the long D flat shaft. Costs about $5 and much easier than cleaning an old motor. Hopefully this lasts longer.