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Bad Door Lock Actuators?

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Blake, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. Sep 12, 2015 at 10:59 AM
    #121
    jjones

    jjones Well-Known Member

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    That is good info I spent a lot of time trying to find the motor. I also think taking the housing assembly apart was the most work especially on the back doors. I have only had to do this on 2 doors on an 05. It is a pain but other car companies have problems that cost much more.
     
  2. Sep 12, 2015 at 6:25 PM
    #122
    Ricks2013

    Ricks2013 Well-Known Member

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    Thats great! Going to order a pair now. Thanks!! I took mine apart and cleaned before but no luck. Hopefully these new ones will do the trick.
    This is what I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271849208553?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&fromMakeTrack=true
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2015
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  3. Sep 17, 2015 at 9:05 AM
    #123
    cjcarner

    cjcarner Well-Known Member

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    Glad to help! Those definitely appear to be the correct motors! Let me know if I can help during the install process over PM or whatever.

    EDIT: Whoops! You've apparently already tried so you're probably all set on the install. Offer stands to whoever needs help though!
     
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  4. Oct 20, 2015 at 1:35 PM
    #124
    Jeff350

    Jeff350 Well-Known Member

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    Just wanted to say THANKS for this post. I had 3 of 4 doors not working. I had tried taking apart the motor and cleaning it without success, and had resigned to manually opening the doors (which is super annoying with 2 kids!)

    Using the part # above, I bought 4 motors on eBay for $19, and a few hours later had all 3 doors working like new again.

    Anybody that does this, definitely take your time when dis-assembling/re-assembling the lock mechanism and door. Before you close the door after assemby, test the mechanism and make sure both inside and outside handles release the latch.
     
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  5. Oct 20, 2015 at 1:52 PM
    #125
    cjcarner

    cjcarner Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely! I'm glad I could help, but I definitely didn't find it out myself. I wish I could remember where I eventually found out about this... Maybe a Lexus forum? In any case, I'm glad yours are working again.
     
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  6. Oct 28, 2015 at 11:12 PM
    #126
    Mariotaco

    Mariotaco Well-Known Member

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  7. Oct 29, 2015 at 5:56 AM
    #127
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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  8. Oct 29, 2015 at 8:26 AM
    #128
    cjcarner

    cjcarner Well-Known Member

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    Yes! Mine is a 2011, and this is exactly what I used. Good luck!!
     
  9. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:13 PM
    #129
    WilvisRN

    WilvisRN New Member

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    It's definitely a pain in the ass. My issue spread like a virus thru my truck starting with one then the rest one at a time. For a while only my driver door worked. Drivers side rear door lock does not work presently. I can operate it manually. I have extended warranty so I've had to pay my $100 deductible 6 times now. Why does this keep happening? Why has this part not been recalled yet?
     
  10. Dec 7, 2015 at 8:09 PM
    #130
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    This sounds more like there is an issue with your extended warranty. If it was fixed by the dealer, parts should be covered for at least a year. If there is a defect with the part, 6 times, you shouldn't have to pay any deductible.
     
  11. Dec 21, 2015 at 5:53 PM
    #131
    Coolerman

    Coolerman Well-Known Member

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    I just replaced the electric motor in my driver side door lock actuator. I ended up ordering two replacement motors online for around 10 bucks shipped. I have a spare now in case the passenger side decides to go too. Thanks to the many pictures and comments on various threads mine is now back together and working. I would caution anyone doing this to go slow and be patient when removing the actuator and taking it apart. Take note of where the levers are located as you take it apart. This should help it to go back together and work properly. The most difficult part is getting the many plastic tabs on the actuator to release without damaging it. There are way too many tabs. :) Ill add a few pictures I took along the way.

    actuator1.jpg
    actuator2.jpg
    actuator3.jpg
    actuator4.jpg
    actuator5.jpg
     
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  12. Jan 3, 2016 at 5:33 PM
    #132
    Ricks2013

    Ricks2013 Well-Known Member

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    Same with mine. One at a time usually. It wasn't too bad when under warranty. I currently have all four of mine not working right now (sometimes one will work). I didn't get the extended warranty though so I'll have to take them apart and try to replace the motors. I actually bought a couple a few months back so i just have to get motivated to do it.
    I have never had this problem with any of the remote door locks on any other car myself or my wife have owned so I'm wondering wtf is going on with the Tacomas? I mean is this some different type of lock design compared to all the other vehicles (toyotas and other brands too)? I had a Sequoia for 8 years/160k miles and never had one problem with the door locks. Weird.
     
  13. Jan 4, 2016 at 11:15 PM
    #133
    WilvisRN

    WilvisRN New Member

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    I've had multiple toyota trucksgoing back to my 1985 king cab 4x4 and have never had door lock issues on any of them until now. My back drivers door has been broken for months and now passenger door is failing frequently. That makes 7 locks in 2-3 years. I'm at the point where I'm contemplating selling the piece of shit. I get offers from dealers all of the time.
     
  14. Feb 22, 2016 at 9:39 AM
    #134
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    :help:

    I have a question for you or anybody else that can answer.

    It appears my cable for the inside door lock switch has detached from the actuator. I can manually flip the lock switch pictured below, but it does nothing to the lock anymore.

    Here are my questions:
    1. How do I remove the inside door handle pictured below?
    2. Where are the best step-by-step instructions for removing the actuator from the door?
    My door interior has already been removed, I just need help the inside door handle and actuator removal.

    Thanks.

    IMG_20160218_172838_10959225e096584f259fe003f36fa2a3a2bb6f2b.jpg
     
  15. Feb 22, 2016 at 11:01 AM
    #135
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Just to clarify, when you manually flip the orange lock witch above, the door does not lock?

    Unless you have messed around with the lock and taken it apart before, I think it is highly unlikely that the cable is no longer connected in the actuator. When you lock the door manually, can you see the yellow cable moving?
     
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  16. Feb 22, 2016 at 11:08 AM
    #136
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Open the quote for my responses.
     
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  17. Feb 22, 2016 at 12:40 PM
    #137
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Welp. The door lock switch (the orange lock) still moves the yellow cable back and forth as it should, but it doesn't do anything anymore to the actual lock in the door. The cable is still secured to the the actuator case, which of course I can't open while in the door and now must remove the whole assembly.

    Noted. Thanks. I read the Rav4 forum writeup on removing the locking rod and actuator. So I should be in good shape to replace now.

    Also, I think a lot has happened in the market with the actuator pricing. It appears that new Toyota Genuine OEM actuator can be had now for about $90. I have it listed as part number: 69320-04040
     
  18. Feb 23, 2016 at 10:15 AM
    #138
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    @jjew18 John, Thanks for your help. Between your responses and the Rav4 door lock guide, I was succesful yesterday in removing the locking rod, and inside door handle assembly. Tonight I'll pull the actuator out and find out what went wrong inside. :)
     
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  19. Feb 24, 2016 at 10:25 AM
    #139
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    I fixed mine yesterday. Here are some pics to help the next poor soul with a broken door lock switch.

    Here it is all removed from the door.
    IMG_20160223_180704_386bda3ebdb9f110edfa00b246d2882b51639511.jpg

    Swing open hinged service door, the cable on the bottom is not attached and needs to reattach to restore manual door lock switch.

    IMG_20160223_175844_bb9077a84a34bbcb8ee983eca0e604641439882b.jpg

    Solution: Wire wrapped cable to white plastic.
    IMG_20160223_180549_74940bd0f53d0c472782645b51fb37ab9223b0ee.jpg

    Close hinged service door, and test manual lock switch. Test confirmed good. Reinstall the whole assembly into door.
     
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  20. Feb 24, 2016 at 11:17 AM
    #140
    jjew18

    jjew18 the Nightman cometh!

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    Nice work! That's crazy that it had broke/come unattached on its own.
     
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