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Bad head gasket, maybe. What to do....??

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Werloc, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. Nov 4, 2015 at 2:30 PM
    #1
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    Well, I haven't posted here in a long time since my 2003 has been A - OK for the passed 50k miles or so. Took it to the shop cuz it all of the sudden started running rough at idle, with engine light going on as well. Mechanic just called saying at one cylinder, plug is water fouled. Most likely a head gasket, cracked head, etc. Anyway, no one in the area will repair it cuz it's just not worth the money to do. Not going to repair the top end on a truck with 143,000 miles cuz bottom end wouldn't hold up much longer anyway. Bottom line, try to sell it as is. It's a 2003 6cyl, Tacoma 4x4, Double cab, SR5, TRD. Very clean and other than this issue, in fantastic shape, inside and out. Thing is, I can't afford to get another vehical, being disabled and not working. What to do? Should I just try to sell as is, or try and find someone to repair? Any thoughts, opinions, or options....?? I'm stuck in a bad spot here. Maybe someone has a thought or idea I haven't thought of?

    Thanks
     
  2. Nov 4, 2015 at 3:05 PM
    #2
    MikeZ

    MikeZ Well-Known Member

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    143,000 is nothing for the 3.4 V6. My truck had 293k on it before the motor blew because the guy I got it from ran it for a couple hundred miles after it shot out a spark plug with a coil over. It was down 2 plugs then and still ran for a couple hundred miles before dieing. Another guy on here has a motor with 500k with a supercharger and it just blew a head gasket. It honestly depends on the frame, if it is in good condition that truck is still worth well over 10 grand being a double cab.
     
  3. Nov 4, 2015 at 3:11 PM
    #3
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    With any other than Toyota I'd agree with ya, but as stated above "143,00 is nothing" I'd have no worries just doing the top end, ...
     
  4. Nov 4, 2015 at 4:39 PM
    #4
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    Yeah, the frame is new from the recall. It was replaced 4 years ago. No issues there. Like I said. The truck is in great contion. Just did second timing belt, water pump, etc, at 130,000. First one was done at 75,000ish miles. Tires are like new BF Goodrich AT TA's 11.50's. Over sized, but not that big. Just a nice meaty tire for this truck. I get complements on the truck a few times a month, still. Nice hunter green. Sweet truck. I really want to keep it.

    Well, now that I've had a few hours to sit and think, sounds like my mechanic just doesn't want to do the job. Let's say, it IS just the head gasket. How would replacing it, ruin the lower end adding more stress? It won't. I can see if the valves had blow by, compression was low, bottem end weak, then redoing the valves, head rebuild, then yes. Just replacing the gasket, will only bring it back to what it was last week. Right? Maybe I just need to find a Tacoma guru mechanic in my area. Am I thinking along the right lines? Or no?
     
  5. Nov 4, 2015 at 5:14 PM
    #5
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Yeah yer thinking is right & I for one wouldn't want to mess with all those cams & shit on the 3.4, but unless you are just tired of truck I'd think rolling the dice on a refreshed upper end would be a safe gamble getting your truck back up to snuff, ya know what I'm sayin'?...
     
  6. Nov 4, 2015 at 7:11 PM
    #6
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    how disabled are you? stuck in a wheel chair? or are you able to, and have time to, do all the work yourself? if you have the time and the patience, it's fairly easy to do all the labor yourself. the most intensive part really is torquing the head bolts in the correct order 2 or 3 times. everything else is pretty simple so long as you follow a service manual.

    and do you have the money to repair it yourself? you would have 2 options if you do. buy a reman head for 470-570 +core, taxes, and 110 for head gasket set, BUT ONLY IF YOU THINK THE HEAD IS BAD. or you could just tear it down and take the head in to a machine shop to have it pressure tested and see if it really is bad. if it's still good, you could have it rebuilt for less than 200 + the cost for a head set. if it's bad, you'll have to buy another head.

    good luck, brother!.
     
  7. Nov 4, 2015 at 7:23 PM
    #7
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    after thought. which cylinder? cylinders 1, 2, 5, and 6 are right next to the water jackets of the intake manifold gasket. could just be the intake gasket.
     
  8. Nov 4, 2015 at 9:13 PM
    #8
    00yotasr5

    00yotasr5 Well-Known Member

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    lazy mechanic, I say find someone in your area and tear it down. With all parts in hand it can be done in a day.
     
  9. Nov 5, 2015 at 11:46 AM
    #9
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    I was in a wheelchair. I had 2 failed lower back surgeries that made me disabled. Right now, on my feet, no chair. But that could change if I move the wrong way. Bent over under the hood of my truck just may put me back in the chair for a while. Depends on what I do, I'm in and out of a wheelchair. I could do this job myself if I take my time. I have the tools, ability (was a motorcycle mechanic for 34 years), but don't have a garage. Don't have anyone's that I can use either. I'd have to do this outside in my driveway. Not sure this is the place for a job like this. Esspecially this time of year here in NJ. Weather is turning quick. I have about $1,000. budget right now, and all the time in the world. I found this step by step video series done by someone. Watched a few, and think he did a great job showing the whole job, start to finish. Pretty sure this is the same engine I have, 3.4L 5VZ-FE. Mine is a 3.4L V6, so I guess so..?? Truck is still at the shop, I'll pick it up tomorrow. If I had a place to do it (indoors/garage) I'd start this weekend. I just need to plan ahead, and find a local machine shop to check the head or heads for me, get parts/gaskets needed, etc, before I start. With my condition, it will get done, but much slower pace. If indoors, that's not a problem, but outside with the cold bad weather coming up quick, I'm not so sure. I do have a borrowed car to use as long as I need to, so maybe I can winterize the truck, take it slow, and just do it even if it doesn't get finished until Spring. I've got homework and a lot of thinking to do.

    Also, don't know what cylinder it is until tomorrow when I pick up the truck from the shop. Should I just replace the side that's bad, or should I just plan on changing out both head gaskets while I'm at it?

    Since I have a loaner car, I could just wait and do it in the Spring. I think by the time I get the manual, parts, and a few tools I "may" need, the weather may be too crappy already. This way, I have extra time to shop for best prices, and save up more money for the job. One thing I've learned in my 52 years, haste makes waste, and rushing things never works out well, or ends up costing more money in the end. I'm in NO rush at all. Anything to keep my Tacoma. I can't afford to spend or waste money, time is what I have plenty of...:D I guess you can see I'm thinking about doing it myself. I just have to plan it right due to doing outside with the weather, and really go at a slow pace so I can get through the job to finish without hurting my back and ending up in my wheelchair. Everytime I "do" end up in the chair, it takes a few 2 to 4 weeks to get back on my feet. This has happened 6 times in the passed 4 years. I do know my limitations.

    Anyway, Here are those videos:

    Part 1 - Diagnosis & Initial Disassembly
    http://youtu.be/voLBRDZL9fE

    Part 2 - Intermediate Disassembly
    http://youtu.be/in4VdfnHdI0

    Part 3 - Final Disassembly
    http://youtu.be/yTsocmNdBpQ

    Part 4 - Cylinder Head Removal, Inspection, & Replacement
    http://youtu.be/nFYEoWTX0YU

    Part 5 - Initial Reassembly
    http://youtu.be/iQ7-wmjo6PE

    Part 6 - Final Reassembly & Wrap-up
    http://youtu.be/5ysgDyea1GU


    AND, Thank You guys. I really appreciate all the help, support and encuragement. Big Time Thank You.....:)
     
  10. Nov 5, 2015 at 12:29 PM
    #10
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    if one failed then yes change both, they usually are ready to go out at the same time so do both or you'll be redoing it all again in a month or two at twice the price.

    in your condition, I wouldn't even try it. pay a shop to replace the head gaskets for you and do the timing belt stuff at the same time or just go get a good running used engine from the salvage yard and have a shop install it in your truck for you. doing this job isn't hard but it takes a toll on your back because its all bending, stretching, reaching, and lifting things with arms stretched out and that going to be murder on your lower back.

    I also have had several back surgeries leaving me disabled and trust me, its not something you can do without hurting yourself and still have to have it towed to a shop to finish the job.
     
    ThorInc likes this.
  11. Nov 5, 2015 at 1:23 PM
    #11
    CodeSeven

    CodeSeven LOC: 33.781461, -115.867251

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    Hey, if you believe you can do it, more power to you! Would wearing a back brace help at all? I know it helps me after I go to the gym for back day. But I've never had an injury either.
     
  12. Nov 5, 2015 at 2:39 PM
    #12
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    Yeah, All just thinking right now, pros cons, pricing, finding someone to do the work, talking, etc, basicly thinking out loud here. I value opinions and other's thoughts and ideas. As far as my back, yes, won't be easy, but at a very slow pace, I mean what would normally be done in 1 hour may take me 5 or 6 hours, and get help when needed. Timing belt was just done along with water pump, new pullies, idlers, etc. I only drive 15 or so miles a week, once in a while, closer to 100 or so once in a while when I need to go somewhere. No way can I replace with used engine for $1,500 to $1,800 they pay $800 to $1,500 to swap and install. This are prices I'm seeing online. It varries from area to area, and NJ ain't cheap. If it takes me 3 months to do this, than that's what it's going to be. I may not be able to even start doing it if I have to until Spring. That's 5 or more months from now. Looking into every option right now, and forced to go the cheapest way. That means most likely, I'll have to do it somehow.
     
  13. Dec 1, 2015 at 7:09 AM
    #13
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    Ok, So being I don't have a garage and with the weather this time of year, I decided not to do this myself. In the passed few weeks, I was able to come up with money to have someone replace my head gaskets. Just a few questions before I start calling around to find the right guy/shop to do the job. What gaskets should I use, OEM Toyota, or something like Fel-Pro or Mr Gasket brands which cost much less than OEM...??

    Also, I remember reading here on the forum I think about only using OEM Toyota coolant/antifreeze, the red stuff? If true, why is it different or better?

    I do know to also get new head bolts. Other than what I asked here, anything else I need to know before I start calling and talking to mechanics later this week? It's time to get the ball rolling here.

    Thanks everyone....:)
     
  14. Dec 1, 2015 at 3:30 PM
    #14
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    what the hell dude? if you ask to have head gaskets replaced, that's exactly what they will do, even if they aren't the problem.

    how about if you ask THEM to find out where the leak is coming from and then fix it? if it is the head gaskets, then fine, but if its just the thermostat housing or the water pump, you can save $1000 by not telling THEM what they need to replace.

    if you tell them to replace the head gaskets and they do that and it still has a water leak, then what? because they did what you told them to. and if you tell them to replace head gaskets they will do that on top of fixing the real problem because that's what you asked for and they can make 10 times more money replacing head gaskets then just replacing a water pump or thermostat gasket.

    NEVER tell a mechanic what to change or what the problem is or they wont diagnose it for themselves, let THEM tell YOU what needs to be done.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2015
    ThorInc likes this.
  15. Dec 3, 2015 at 11:40 AM
    #15
    Werloc

    Werloc [OP] Large Member

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    Um, didn't you read this thread? It was at a shop, and it IS a head gasket. I just won't pay that shop's high price to do the repair. They don't want to do it anyway. You should maybe read everything before replying. Thanks for trying to help though.
     
  16. Dec 3, 2015 at 11:46 AM
    #16
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    It's not their call to make, it's yours. 143k should be 1/2 - 1/3 of the useful life w/o having to get into the bottom end, of a well serviced motor.

    The observation is flat wrong, but even if it were correct, and you chose to proceed, why should they care?

    http://www.cylinder-heads.com/

    You might find that a pair of fully refurbished heads is the easiest and cheapest way out, if you have a warped head and/or need a valve job, and assuming that finding a good machine shop locally is tough.

    But before ordering, I'd pull it apart for a full diagnosis. It's not impossible to be a 'gasket only' job, with no need for head work.

    Good luck. And hope you can find a new mechanic.
     
  17. Dec 3, 2015 at 8:06 PM
    #17
    keakar

    keakar Well-Known Member

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    yes I saw the one shop with the crazy high prices said it was a bad head gasket but I have seen many shops tell people they need expensive repairs they don't really need and with the prices they wanted, they sound like one of those shops that try to rip people off. are you aware that intake manifolds develop water leaks twice as often as head gaskets do and the water all comes out in similar areas.

    I don't fault you for asking the shop what they will charge to replace head gaskets, that's info you need to know in advance, but all im saying is tell the shop you go to, to check it out for themselves and decide what the problem really is rather then just tell them you want something replaced. you would, or at least should, get a second doctors opinion before having surgery, and its the same with major mechanic repairs, get a second opinion because the first shop may have just said the head gasket is bad when its not.

    not all shops are crooked but there are enough out there you cant just trust what the first guy says unless you know them personally and feel he is trustworthy
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2015
  18. Oct 10, 2017 at 6:08 PM
    #18
    ScotTacoma 2003

    ScotTacoma 2003 New Member

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    I'm currently getting my head gasket replaced. 2003 Tacoma V6 3.4L TRD Xtra Cab 165,000 miles. I love my truck and putting a couple thousand into it is better than 700 a month for 5-6 yrs for a new truck. I normally put in a thousand or so a year in maintenance, but the math is far less than the payments on a new truck. Yah, it looks old cuz the paint is peeling off the roof, but it runs as good as any other truck I'd buy for far less $$$.
     

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