Bad scab on driver side access door

Catcrazed thanks. I appreciate the succinct brutal honesty and I know you're right. The logical part of me knows that for longevity sake and doing it right that I need to take it to a pro. But the part of me with that attachment to it and him says he'd be pissed if I did and didn't do it myself .

 

I'd be looking for a new door. You might be surprised and a new shell cost less than you think.

Have it painted, transfer all the internals/interior bits and hang it.

But first, check all the panels around that area with a refrigerator magnet. They are weak and won't stick if bondo or glass are too thick.

I'm betting there may be more damage, which could affect your assessment of how to proceed.

Good luck. My dad was a fix it prankster too!

 

You can see that the rust line is right up to the edge of the bondo, so you can be sure the rust doesn't stop there. You can also see that the bondo is discolored at the bottom edge from the rust underneath. If you pick at those spots in the middle, with something sharp, you will be able to see if there's metal behind the spots, or if there's holes all the way through. You can also watch this video. You may need to watch it at least 5 times. Then pull the door panel off and see what the door looks like on the inside. If you do decide to fill and paint it yourself, it won't be a perfect fix, but that would buy you some time to look for a good deal on a nice door.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aitzr_3p9MM

By the way, she also does a video on how to pull the front door panel off.

 

Muddinfun I didn't learn much about removing the panels. Was there even a truck in that video? Yowza!!

 

Well if you want to do it yourself for sentimental sake.
Watch some you tube, call in some favors, pay someone to train you while helping do the repair.
But fyi the white/yellow your see is more bondo,
Your gonna want to take that all out , straighten the metal best u can then use a skim of bondo.
You will want to use a da sander and less grit. If you scratch to deep you will always see scratches.
Look around for any forum threads in your area.
Go to a meet and maybe another member has some body experience.
I wasn't trying to be rude. Just want u to know a lasting repair is going to be alot of work and some cost.

 

Catcrazed I didn't take you as rude at all. You told it like it is. I respect that.

 

I'm not to sure there is a way to make a last repair, that is cheap, and looks good without experience anyway. The product doesn't cost much, but the know how does.
Wish there was a better alternative.
Look up a product called por15, it is supposed to stop and or convert rust.
But I don't know about painting over it and it looking good.
Maybe a big sticker lol.
Sanding the rust out, well sand blasting would be better. Then painting it would at least stop the rust.
But depending on the condition of the sheet metal will depend on how it looks

 

So looky looky it appears the shoddy body work was actually done by A Toyota dealer in August 2015. Any chance I can go after them for the fact the side looks like it was never repaired correctly?

BODY REPAIR ~|~BODY REPAIR--RT
AND LT DAMAGE -CLM#
Xxxxxxs - $100 TAKEN OFF
DEDUCTIBLE DUE TO DAMAGE TO
NEW TONNEAU COVER ~|~BODY
REPAIR AS PER ESTIMATE

 

Worth a shot.
I have no idea how to research that further.
Maybe call the shop and ask if they have a corrosion guaranty?

 

Sorry catcrazed didn't mean to quote you meant to just do a new post in the thread. Yeah I'll give them a call. I'm sure I'll get a runaround .

 

Ohh I would probably inquire about a repair your considering having done

 

Since there is mention of a deductible, that means insurance paid for the repair. Find out what insurance company paid for it and request/ insist/ demand that they warrantee the repair.

 

Thanks. I know which one paid and the claim number etc. I edited that out of the post. I'll try that route. Not sure how much they'll care I wasn't the owner/insured at the time but I'm betting they'd like to make sure they got their money's worth for whatever they paid.

I'm far from a body and collision guy as you all can tell from my posts and questions. But based on what I've seen the bit I know and what others have said it sure looks like they did a subpar repair and eventually that door is gonna need to be replaced as some/most have said here.

 

I occasionally deal with insurance companies paying me for repairs on their customers boats. I wouldn't expect the insurance co to give a rats ass. They just write a check and that's it, claim over.

 

I'm strong considering paying for a Carfax on this vehicle and taking the magnet to it .I'm beginning to wonder if my father got screwed when he bought it not like there's much that can be done or much consolation to be found .

 

Wyckedan I've worked in insurance as well before and yup I agree that is pretty much the additude I expect to encounter from them and the dealership.

 

I’d call whoever did the work and ask about warranty but don’t mention what’s going on. Sound like a potential customer. Then if tell you there’s a warranty that would cover, then I’d let them know what’s going on.

 

Alright man, that's some interesting body work....

this is what you need...

Take that patch down to "white metal"- ideally you want to media blast that and then feather out the surrounding paint areas, much like what you did. Then you're going to want a pre-treatment solution. Generally these will seal the metal and prevent rust. You need to do this within 2 hours or you'll encounter oxidation. After that I would prime it with something like PCL high build primer. 2 coats will be sufficient as the dry film build will be optimal. This is where it gets fun... now you're going to block that patch and a little bit of the surrounding areas. At this point you'll see areas where you need to apply body filler. I prefer the polyester filler as it sands glass smooth, easier to work with, and the adhesion ( when it comes to feathering it out) is extremely good. Now you'll prime it once again and then spray your guide coat to block it ( sand it down ) and then you'll be spraying your base and clear.....


OR...

go back to that body shop - tell them their work sucks ASS since it wasn't fixed correctly ....


OR ...

check your deductible and claim your insurance....

 

Got some more work to do and need more paint lol rather than try to blend I masked off and scuffed the whole door. This is after one rattle can of 209 black sand pearl. Clearly need to sand the couple runs and apply more paint. It's a start though.

 

Make sure the door is sanded perfectly smooth before painting. Or youll always see the scuffs through the paint.