Bad stuff is starting in the engine/tranny dunno yet.

x2 timing if way off..get that checked out asap...

 

how do i adjust the timing when i check it is it electronic since theres no distributor .

 

Timing belt ever been replaced? could have jumped a tooth. How many miles on the truck?

 

no it hasnt and 130000

 

5 bucks says it's your timing belt,

 

ok im taking it down to a shop tommaro morning for diagnostics and if its timing belt gettin that and water pump and head gasket

 

You shouldn't need new head gaskets. If it is the timing belt, replace the water pump, cam & crank seals & the idler & tensioner pulleys if they need it. Also a good time to replace all of the other belts & hoses.

 

x2. that occurred to me as soon as you said all cylinders missing and backfire...the T belt is due at 90k miles. Do it...

 

Wow!! 130K on one belt! def. change that thing. and all other belt, ofcourse water pump too.

 

Wow! The belt should be changed every 60k. This is time for your second change!

 

I was under the impression (given to me by the TRD guys at Toyota) the belt needs doing at 60K...but it's actually 90K. I'm watching ebay for a copy of the 2002 (1st gen) service schedule.

 

yea i know! right lol i just bought the truck and last monday. and he said hes never done anything to it so i was planning on doing anyway real soon.
ill keep you guys updated tommaro with the answer to what is causing this stuff. thanks for all the input!

 

Really? The maintenance guide says 60k so thats what im sticking with. I like to keep things safe.

My friends old blazer threw a belt and the cylinder head hit one of his valves. Since his engine cost more than the truck was worth, his insurance just "totaled" his car.

 

The thick one that came with my truck says 60K too! But the thin maintenance schedule one says 90K. Dunno WTF is going on with that. Changed mine at 87K so guess I compromised.

But FYI the 3.4 is a non-interference engine. Means when the belt goes the truck stops, but no piston kissing valves worries.

 

Mostlly true, but I was told by a Toyoa tech that the 3.4 CAN bend valves under certian circumstances, like If the belt breaks while the engine is running high RPM's

 

Better safe than sorry I guess.

 

Their are no half truths with interfearance / non interfearance engines ~ Either the piston can hit the vale or it can not...

No maintenance?

I agree the belt and associated maintenance needs to be done...

But I'd start with a tune up ~ after running the codes & verifying crank to cam timing that is the first thing the shop will do... and they will charge you $80 - $100 per hr to do it. Get the simple stuff out of the way if you can. Plugs / fuel filter / air filter / ect....

At 130k on the original plugs ~ the coil will sacrafice itself to make the spark until total plug failure. Modern platnium plugs are designed to achieve a 60k-100k service interval but the plugs & coils generally do not all fail at once. Some models recomend that at those intervals you replace the coil packs too.

For a failure /misfire on all cylinders what are the common denominators to all cylinders?

fuel / quality pressure?
Mass Air?
Coolant Temp?

Any trouble starting before this occured?

Is it constant or does it come and go?

A belt jumping time would be constant every time until it jumps again it which time it will usually cut off.

I'm guessing your code was a P0300 ???

http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/maintitems/enginecode/cip0300p.pdf

 

soo... i got the truck back from the shop friday
had the timing belt and all those goodies and water pump and all new belts on the outside and new spark plugs cause thats what the guy thought was causing all the nonsence. it was ok until i went to the beach today and the check engine light blinks for a bit and goes away. it went on when i was going about 75 and punched it and it throws the code and feels like its not accelerating smooth. And another problem that started is if i put it into drive and just push the brake like at a light. it will go from 800rpm and drop up and down from like 600rpms to 750rpms. so i dunno what to do the check light isnt on when it does that. so i dunno what to check now. maybe new plug wires? im gonnna go back to that shop and make them do diagnostics for free and tell me what it is for sure. cause they screwed me.

 

to answer these questions

i run plus gas/ dunno about the pressure

cleaned the map sensor

doesnt overheat

no problem starting and no problem staying running

right now it comes and goes depending on if i get on it or not. but the idle droping in drive is constant.

the code i didnt get a good look at he just fliped through them saying every cylinder is misfiring but i think that is partially fixed cause it doesnt act like a lose of power and shake befor shifing its only when i accelerate fast.

 

check the mass air flow or the idle air control, mine would shut off if i let go of the gas when it went bad