Bad uniball on new UCA already?

I installed Camburg UCA's a few months ago. Torqued everything to spec and no issues until now. I can jack up the drivers side and wiggle the wheel left to right and get a few degrees of wiggle. I can feel and hear it in the uniball. I can't visualize what is happening here, and passenger side is tight and quiet. I checked the torque on the bolt and all is nice and tight. They don't squeak at all and have been flawless until now. Maybe Camburg can send me a replacement?

Also just a side note I have also replaced over the last few months the LBJ's, LCA bushings, TRE's with all OEM parts.

 

No one is going to send you free parts until you are 100% certain what the issue is. Disconnect the spindle and see if in fact the uniball is the issue. If it is write Camburg a nice letter and see what they say.

No idea what Camburg uses but my TC uca uniballs from FK were around $40 per ball. My original uniballs only lasted one winter (9 months) because of salt.

 

UCA uniballs do wear out, but usually with a lot more miles, say 40k. LCA uniballs (often seen in long-travel setups) wear out faster, being more exposed to contamination.

Got a picture of the driver's side uniball showing the conditions of the misalignment spacers? If the installer isn't careful, the misalignment spacer lip can get pinched by the bearing housing on installation (happens with both DIY and professional mechanics).

Did you replace both the outer- and inner tie rod ends?

If you've isolated the problem to the uniball with good confidence, contact Camburg for a replacement.

 

I replaced the outers only, and thats a good call there. However now I'm not so sure. I stuck my head in the wheel well and listened while moving the wheel and the sound seems to come from "everywhere". I got underneath and did the same and it sounds like its coming form the wheel area, i.e. spindle side. Could a failing CV do something similar? Close to the hub?

(EDIT)

After thinking about the CV, That doesn't make sense. The CV wouldn't allow the wheel to move in the manner in which it does...so back to ITR?

When I was replacing the OTE I did give the inners a tug and a twist and they seemed fine. I'll have to get a buddy to help me out here and track this down. I'm not so sure its the uniball. How about a wheel bearing? I only get play from side to side and not from the 12/6 o'clock positions. It has to be an ITR...

 

^Pay attention to the inner tie rod boot while moving the wheel side to side, like EricTheCarGuy does it in this video at 18:45:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2I0c-jJa14&t=18m45s

 

Yeah left and right wiggle sounds like tie rod or rack. An up and down wiggle would be ball joints.

 

If it were a rack issue would both sides have the same issue?

 

not if its in the tie rod.

 

Awesome, thank you!

 

I went thru the exact same thing, you could wiggle the UCA arm and wheel would not move, it was the Uni-ball cup was bigger the OD of the Uniball shoulder. I have seen and heard this more then a few times and always about Camburg.

 

The wheel is moving from side to side enough that the uniball is moving too like a turning wheel. All is tight though as it should be with the uniball i believe.

I just ordered inner tie rods, and it had better be the culprit or my wife will have my nuts hanging on the mailbox and a bon fire in the front yard dancing with face paint on. I've spent too much on the truck in the last several months.

Lift, Tires, UCA's lower ball joints, outer tie rods, inner tie rods, bushing replacement for LCA's and the steering rack.

 

Inners are done. They seemed ok, but so did my upper ball joints before I cleaned out the grease. They were clearly shot. There seems to be less play, I'll drive it around a bit and check again...