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Balance shaft delete

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Alexbro15, Jan 24, 2019.

  1. Jan 24, 2019 at 7:26 PM
    #1
    Alexbro15

    Alexbro15 [OP] New Member

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    Hello, first time posting on the tacoma site, I have a 1999 Toyota tacoma with 3rz turbo engine, I was recently doing the balance shaft delete and drilled too far into my block for the grub screw to block off the oil package, So now my oil and coolant mix since I broke through into the coolant jacket, Yes I messed up I know, I was rushing and realized I should've taken my time. Are there anyways I can fix what I've done? I thought about tapping the hole and putting in a fully threaded bolt with some jb weld on the threads? to seal the coolant out of the oil passages... Thanks

    received_2278623939062826.jpg
     
    MrCrowntown likes this.
  2. Jan 24, 2019 at 7:34 PM
    #2
    rogerman

    rogerman Well-Known Member

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  3. Jan 24, 2019 at 8:09 PM
    #3
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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  4. Jan 24, 2019 at 8:11 PM
    #4
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

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    I agree, drill, tap, bolt with jb weld, cut the head off and mushroom whats visible.
     
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  5. Jan 24, 2019 at 8:31 PM
    #5
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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    I like the long bolt idea through both passages. One caveat that I cannot resolve without a block in front of me, is whether the oil galley that supplies the oil to the tensioner that you were attempting to block off, feeds anything else beyond where the bolt will be. Once its in there, i am sure it will impeade flow of oil beyond that point. If you can verify that the speciffic galley does not supply any other bearings, then I would go ahead with your thought!
     
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  6. Jan 25, 2019 at 3:24 AM
    #6
    Alexbro15

    Alexbro15 [OP] New Member

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    The rest of that oil passage, goes to the head for the valve train it looks like to me, bacause if I shine a flash light into it, the hole going up through the head gasket has light coming from it.
     
  7. Jan 25, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #7
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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    That's kind of what I was thinking was going to be the case..

    Now, I think you could do your long bolt with jb weld, and then drill down the oil passage from the top through the bolt. Does that make sense?

    You will need to clean the oil passages really well after this process though, but at this point you have already contaminated that galley.
     
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  8. Jan 25, 2019 at 7:24 PM
    #8
    Alexbro15

    Alexbro15 [OP] New Member

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    I put in the bolt and may just leave it, the oil passage runs into a circle right there and meets the bolt and looked like there was room for oil to go around the bolt
     
  9. Jan 25, 2019 at 8:08 PM
    #9
    Alexbro15

    Alexbro15 [OP] New Member

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    Does anyone have a diagram of the oil passages in the 3rz? does the idiot light sensor go in the passage on the oils way to the head after the balance shafts?
     
  10. Jan 26, 2019 at 8:24 AM
    #10
    wesb1023

    wesb1023 Well-Known Member

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    I’d probably go with the bolt, but I’m not sure about the jb weld. I’d use locktite flange sealant, but if you go that route, don’t forget the primer. All locktite products are basically junk if you don’t use the primer first. The directions are on the bottle of all the products. You’ll need to work pretty fast before everything hardens, but after it’s cured you’ll need a bolt of lightning to remove the bolt again.
     
  11. Jan 26, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #11
    Exracer2

    Exracer2 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure which flange sealant you mean. If it is the silicone red gasket goop that is a absolute no. Any that comes off when the bolt goes in the hole can plug oil holes and starve a bearing of oil.

    https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/thread-sealants/loctite_545.html

    545 is my choice. Seals well and won’t clog anything if it circulates.
     
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  12. Jan 26, 2019 at 8:44 AM
    #12
    wesb1023

    wesb1023 Well-Known Member

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    I can’t remember what the numbers are on the bottle, but that 545 would probably do the job great! That’s basically what I was talking about, but instead of thread sealant, it says flange sealant.
     
  13. Jan 26, 2019 at 9:30 AM
    #13
    05Taco4x4

    05Taco4x4 ToyotaHubs

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    If was me, I’d:
    -Thread both
    -Brake clean the hell out of it
    -Plenty of dry time
    -Apply epoxy through the first to the second set of threads (toothpick?) and install it’s own set screw
    -Dry time
    Continue install as if it never happened
     
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  14. Jan 26, 2019 at 2:08 PM
    #14
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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    Complex, but the correct solution short of a new block. I like it
     
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  15. Mar 27, 2020 at 9:14 PM
    #15
    ToyotaJim

    ToyotaJim Well-Known Member

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    Can someone explain to me why you can't just take the chain off the balancers and call it good? why is all of this work necessary and potentially causing a problem like this when everything works fine as it is and should continue to if you just remove the chain...? Is this just so you can increase oil pressure or...?
     
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