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Ball-joint or complete lower-control arm

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by jamestcurran, Sep 11, 2025 at 3:32 AM.

  1. Sep 11, 2025 at 3:32 AM
    #1
    jamestcurran

    jamestcurran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Folks, looking for some advice.

    I have some play in the ball join in my left lower control arm. I've looked for replacement ball joints and was surprised to see that they aren't much less expensive than a complete control arm.

    Does this make sense, or am I looking at luck parts, but it seems like I can get a pair of LCAs with bushings and ball-joints installed for about $120, where the ball joints alone are about $75 for a pair.

    Do people regularly just replace the entire LCA?
     
  2. Sep 11, 2025 at 4:02 AM
    #2
    jamestcurran

    jamestcurran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also - is there any point in changing the uppers at the same time?
     
  3. Sep 11, 2025 at 7:50 AM
    #3
    Saskabush

    Saskabush Well-Known Member

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    Saskatchewan, Canada
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    2013 TRD Sport
    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 Wildpeak AT4W, Greenlane Sliders, Warn slimline bumper, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    Most people just replace the whole LCA. Getting the ball joints and bushings out is major pain in the ass if you don't have a fully outfitted shop. And if you are paying a shop to do it the labour will end up costing more than new LCAs. Also, more often than not the LCA cam bolts are seized and you need to cut off the LCA which destroys the bushings anyway. Toyota doesn't even bother attempting to replace bushing or ball joints anymore, they just replace the whole LCA.

    The UCAs depends on the age/millage. They don't see the same stress that the lower BJs take so they usually last longer. But if you can afford it I say do everything at once and be done with it.
     
  4. Sep 11, 2025 at 11:34 AM
    #4
    jamestcurran

    jamestcurran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice. Yeah, looking at it now, the effort required to do the swap massively favours replacing the entire LCA.
    I also see that WULF uppers are on sale on Amazon, so figured why not swap them out too.

    Any advice on brands for LCAs? I seee that MOOG, TRQ and Detroit Axle seem popular. I don't need anything fancy, but don't want junk.

    Also, would folks recommend having cam bolts on hand, or are they likely OK (is there a way to check first?).
     
  5. Sep 11, 2025 at 11:56 AM
    #5
    Saskabush

    Saskabush Well-Known Member

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    Elka 2.5" DSC w/ Deaver Stage 1, Archive Hammer Hangers, SPC UCAs, Timbren bumps, TRD baja wheels, 265/75r16 Wildpeak AT4W, Greenlane Sliders, Warn slimline bumper, N-Fab spare tire box mount.
    I personally went with OEM LCAs. They lasted me 11 years and the few hundred bucks in savings wasn't really worth the gamble on aftermarket for me. You really can't beat Toyota OEM for quality. I've heard of people having luck with Beck & Arnley and Moog though.

    If you live where you get rust, and your truck is more than about 5 years old, chances are the cam bolts a seized. I bought all new hardware from the dealership and just returned the ones I didn't need. You can try to loosen them and rotate the cams to see if they are seized first. If they turn, you're good. If not, better have new bolts on hand. Just make sure to mark the alignment before you try turning them in case they do move.
     
  6. Sep 11, 2025 at 6:21 PM
    #6
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    3" ToyTec coilovers, JBA UCA's, Bilstein 5100's
    you won’t beat OE.
     
  7. Sep 12, 2025 at 3:12 AM
    #7
    jamestcurran

    jamestcurran [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, looks like I jumped to some a of conclusion here. I went about pulling the LCA and simply cannot find any play.

    I was doing all of this based on a garage report that advised the ball-joint and forward bushing needed to be replaced.

    But I can't seem to find any play. I am starting to think that the garage report was just noting some perishing in the rubber bushing and on the ball joint cover.
    I put the front of the truck up on axle stands, took off the wheels and put the jack under the control arm just under the knuckle to the the load off it.
    Then I tried to find some play, wiggled it, shook it, pried it, but no budge.

    Am I missing something here? If there is play, should it be obvious? Any suggestions on how to check for play?
     

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