Ball Joints

Hmm, don't remember it doing that much damage though?

 

You may be right there, but I'll bet his shorts were fuller than yours !! haha Mine dropped in the driveway going .01 mph & it scared the shit out of me

 

Oh yes, I agree on that! Haha I knew I wasn't the fastest, just the worst I'd seen. Was supposed to be totaled but a guy attempted to fix it anyways.

 

"Relax, alright. My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it".

 

I wouldn't accept that level of customer service...sometimes you gotta be a dick and rightfully so because they're asking you to take responsibility for their mistake with paying for 1/2 of the original shipping. Which is ALSO being a dick.

Buy everything on an American Express card. If they give you shit, initiate a chargeback with American Express, they always take care of me when i explain the issue.

PS, that goes for every purchase from every company you ever make. I LOVE my American Express card. I once charged back JJ's Submarine Sandwiches for $15 after me and my GF got food poisoning, and it was obvious to us it was JJs. Did it online, took 3 minutes, no questions asked, 100% refunded. AMEX = Awesome. Plus with everything you buy, AMEX doubles the original warranty or adds a year to it. Yes, that goes for everything, including ball joints.

 

From another thread/subject.

There should have been a 100% refund, shipping and all.


I will say it again for everyone reading this thread. OEM LBJ's do not just pop apart. They come apart when they have been pushed 20K-40k miles or more after they are worn out. In addition, the 4 LBJ mount bolts do not "just shear". They loosen then shear and by all rights should be used only once.
Look at these pics. The sectioned joint below, had maybe .030" of play, worn out by the Toyota spec of .020". The ball had not even come close to wearing through the PTFE liner. For one of these to separate it would have to wear through the liner completely resulting in better than 1/8" of up and down play. Then the ball would have to chew it's way through a hardened ring of steel. That is a long period of neglect.

The Toyota design flaw of mounting the 1st gen LBJ's so the joint is in a constant state of tension makes checking for play tricky and the traditional methods of checking a ball joint do not apply. Subsequently many folks, "techs" included, let these babies go way to long and they fail catastrophicly. They can only be checked by a very specific process, explained here. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st...ll-joints.html




The bluing from the hardening process is clearly seen around the center ring of this joint. When my band saw blade hit the hardened area, it went from premium Starrett bi-metal to junk in 2 seconds.

 

Yeah, RockAuto's response isn't really sitting right with me the more i think about it. Even though i ordered the correct part according to their listings, an incorrect fitment part was sent, and i'm partly on the hook even after calling and confirming fitment prior to ordering?

They also only sent me a single return label when it's very clear on my order and when i was explaining the situation, that the order shipped in two separate boxes.

Ho-Hum. To err is human.

So, i'm going to re-hab my stock LCA's with OEM bushings ($80/side) and new OEM LBJ's, ($85/side) from CamelbackToyota.com instead of trying another aftermarket part in my price range. I've already got all new cam adjusters and bolts waiting.... (another $100+/side...) Oi Vhey...

 

I feel your pain. Here are a few threads on LCA bushing removal and seized cam bolts that might help. It's about as much fun as you can have with LCA's. If you have to cut the bushings/cams it will be easier to get the bushings out.

 

So your saying that raybestos pro grade are shitty? Even though they claim to have a full ball and not metal gusher like moog. I got 10k on moog lowers and I'm nervous about them now.

 

Pardon the Pontification.
Unsupported blanket statements like "raybestos pro grade are shitty" are for the most part internet post ho kiddie speak (not directed at you).
I have been monitoring 1st gen ball joint issues since they started to crop up some 16 years ago and I adapt my position as new info surfaces.
As it stands today there are only 3 LBJ manufacturers that I am aware of. In order of quality, Toyota OEM, "555" brand, and Chinese "bastard" joints. Moog, Raybestos and most likely any other aftermarket "premium" joints are just outsourced "555" brand. These "555" joints are a cut rate version of the standard they supply to Toyota for OEM applications. This is documented fact.
The Moog "gusher Bearing" hype comes with the fine print "most applications". To me, it is still up in the air exactly what is inside the aftermarket "555" joints. Until I can dissect one I have my suspicions.
The OEM Toyota joint uses a highly polished (mirror like finish) ball in a Teflon type socket, assembled under high pressure. This technology requires only enough lube, at assembly, to "condition" the plastic socket. The mirror finish of the ball is the key to longevity, not a repeated lube schedule. This is why there is no zerk on OEM joints. The fact that the after market "555" joints come with a zerk leads me to believe that they are just cheaper to produce "metal ball in metal socket" technology requiring supplemental lubrication. Additionally, several folks have mentioned these joints feel "rough" out of the box, indicative of the old metal on metal technology. Further, they do not specify any specific lube. Some lubricants will attack Teflon. Just ask the uniball UCA folks.

I would not worry to much about the less than OEM grade Moogs but I would keep an Eagle eye on them learn how to properly check them and expect significantly less than a 100K safe life. This is assuming they were installed correctly, a whole other story that goes way beyond "use thread locker".

If anyone wants to send me an old Moog, I will gladly section it for comparison to OEM.

 

Ehh. I'll get some oems, separation is not something i would want to risk. I just wish I didn't have to pay $180 for two ball joints as opposed to like $100. not the end of the world. I'll probably cut open the moogs to inspect them.. See what I was dealing with

 

Cool, take some pics and post em up.
You can drive the ball out of the housing by striking the threaded stud with a bfh.

 

I swapped my upper ball joints. Had OEM til 120k, had moogs for 10k, and now I'm going back to OEM.

My thoughts on Moog ball joints.

 

trying to take this all in...

Recently purchased 2001 double cab 4x4 with 99k and after some lurking I am making my first post.

I checked underneath and sure enough I need at least LBJ'sx2. Called dealer, no luck with recall. My question is while I have wheels up and off what else should be done as far as tie rods, upper ball joints, LCA bushings? I can turn a wrench but don't own pneumatic tools or a press if you get my drift...

I will buy OEM for LBJ but what about upper and other parts? Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

whats easier than using the puller is to jack up your truck put it on a jack stand then put ur jack under ur lower ball joint where it goes into the lower control arm and jack it up so suspension compresses and all the pressure is on the lbj then tap the lower control arm with a hammer and it will pop right out. quick n easy can change them in a matter of 10 mins

 

Replaced moots with oems today. moogs definitely felt rough and grinding moving around, whie oems felt silky smooth. Gonna cut the moogs open in the next couple of days

 

Take my advice, I just did LBJs, inner and outer tie rods today. If you are going to do these components, buy the following tools:

Get the large pittman arm puller for the LBJ's:


These are $17.49 at Advance Auto

Also, get the small pittman arm puller (looks just like the previous tool but a little smaller) and these are for your outter tie rod ends.


Adance has them for $14.99

Lastly, get the Cal-Van inner tie rod tool:



There are also tons of codes online for advance Auto that will save you plenty of money. As such, these tools are not expensive and will make your life super easy when doing lower ball joints or tie rods.

 

whats the purpose of the bottom one??

 

To break the inner tie rod end loose but you dont need it, just loosen the lock nut.

 

I'm no pro mechanic and I learn something new every time I work on a rig but I've yet to need a ball joint puller of any kind.

I guess I've released about 30 ~ 40 ball joints of various types in various vehicles and I have always been able to release them with a few well placed blows with a 3lb maul. As a result, I have never damaged a boot.

So I guess my question is, Have I just been lucky or are folks concerned about using the maul. Seems the castings that contain the ball joints all have a flat face on them that just seems to scream, "Smack me to release my ball joint!"