Bandido's Bad at Taking Pictures '03 DC Build

What booster / mc are you getting rid of and which one are you swapping in?

 

The 13/16" bore mc with single diaphragm booster (oe spec for a taco) to 1" bore mc with dual diaphragm booster (non abs t100). Should move more fluid with about the same or stiffer pedal feel as full OE brakes.

 

Do you have disks on the back?

 

Newp, but I have a wildwood prop valve so I can run whatever.

 

How was the pedal feel with the stock setup? I literally just removed my dual diaphragm booster and bought a single diaphragm to use with the SOS Sequoia mc.

 

With the wa14 front calipers and stock master it was aweful. So much squish. As I recall the sequia MC is 15/16?

 

Yes. I have a T100 MC which has been sitting around haha

 

I have a spare single diaphragm x4 mount if the dual diaphragm ruins the gains from the 1" master.

Unrelated, I bought a 2gr, so that's not too far behind.

 

@Dalandser how was your pedal with the double booster?

Right now mine is super stiff at first, then reasonable.

It feels like the first diaphragm isn't priming correctly or something (to me) unsure if that's how it should work or not.

 

My truck hasn’t moved in 3.5 years

I anticipated with the 4runner brakes up front and El Dorado disks out back that my stock 1” mc and dual booster wouldn’t be pushing enough fluid. One of the guys with a solid axle swap with yota disks in the rear and tundra front brakes said the dual booster / T100 mc was working for him but my friend with tundra brakes and sequoia rear disks said his sequoia master / single diaphragm made everything feel perfect so I went with that.

 

Figured this out, for whatever reason, the Brake pedal was able to (nearly) lock over center as the pushrod for the new booster/master was too long, I had initially modified it to prevent any issue... but even with my first round mod, it was just a little too long, causing a huge increase in required force to start pushing the pedal. I shortened the booster push rod a bit more and made a ~1/4" spacer for the booster, now everything seems to be working just right.

 

I was trying to go the opposite way and mod my pedal to fit the newer shorter push rod. Easiest method after multiple prototypes was get a whole booster and pedal out of a donor lol. Good to hear it. Noticeable improvement over the 13/16 mc?

 

I didn't know the newer boosters with a shorter pushrod even mounted up easily. Did you add/make a mounting plate?

Definitely an improvement, I think I'll be changing the rear brakes up... or just fixing them.... early next year around when I get serious with the Engine swap.

I also lug hard in 5th now with the current gears/TQ. Happy with the 5th swap, should keep the highway positively pleasant with 4.88's

 

Still need a few bits to finish everything off. Does anyone know of a good L-N-H shift knob? I'm gonna be running the 4x button on the 5spd shifter for sure lol.

 

Love it, haha!

You rollin? I need to get out and escape life for a hot sec.

Should also grab that welder from you now that it's cooling off a bit

 

I should be available all weekend, text me.

 

Is that a spare front driveshaft I see

 

It is, but if thats all you are looking for, you should be able to find one closer to you for ~$50 from a local yard.
Gonna put all that junk up for sale soon unless i get a 3rd gen 4r for the lady

 

Any specific reason with going 2gr over 1 or 2uz? Only person I saw try the 2gr had some issues with fitting the oil pan above the diff I think.

 

I'll probably run into this issue and make a custom lower pan, I wasn't aware anyonw had already tried.
a 2GR can be had in the ~80k miles range for $500, its a struggle to find any 1GR for less than $2k
It makes about 100hp more than a 5vze and ~20ftlbs more across the board, roughly 50ftlbs more peak to peak.
Yhe MR2 community has all the ECU bits worked out to a science.

Basically for the cost of a 5vze supercharger, get a motor with nearly 200k less on it and ~40 more HP with similar TQ. its the big win.