BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

At a way to keep after it.

 

It's definitely been a challenge, but it's starting to come around. The hard starts have gone away for the most part, so i'm thinking it's tune related. It's much better now, but still cranks for a little while sometimes. Although if i give it some gas when it's doing this it seems to fire right up. The OEM ecu though, on the other hand, is definitely unhappy. I think im gonna start saving for a Haltech just due to that and the fact that you have to compromise as far as AFRs go in different gears w/ the Map3. Right now AFRs are pretty good in 2nd and 3rd gears, but 4th is pig rich anything over 4-5lbs so it's kinda frustrating at times. That and the fact the the stock ecu is a hater, it's making me consider other options.

 

In other news related to your future mods. We encountered a serious issue with the other truck. Started smoking regularly.

Compression test proved all spark plugs were clean and dry. Compression numbers good.

Hmm. What could be the cause? Pulled the pcv hose off from in front of the turbo, as well as the back of the valve cover. Smoke slowly dissipated.

Ok. Turbo seals aren't leaking.

Instantly, the idea that the routing wasn't correct, was true. So we did a thing.

Threw on my olde catch can, and drilled out the pcv valve. Valve cover is no longer connected with any intake routing.



Welded the port on the bend. Routed hoses. Made the outlet of the can, run downward by the fender.

Problem resolved, and truck is actually running even stronger than before! Way better!

Newer spark plugs definitely helped too.

 

Now you are better prepared.

 

Thanks for the info here, this will definitely come in handy. Question on your catch can, so are there two inlets and an outlet on yours? And also why the need to drill out the pcv?

Got this in a couple days ago, perfect timing

 

Good morning John, have a great Friday brother

 

That doesnt sound fun, be safe out there

 

To simplify things, due to time, and materials on hand, it was easier to plumb both sides of the valve cover into the can, and take away the turbo suction. For this to work properly, the PCV had to be drilled out to remove the spring valve in it.

 

I see, i see. So in my case, would it still work if i was to run the line from the valve cover to the catch can inlet and then the outlet back to the intake tube pre-turbo? or would i encounter the same issue eventually due to the PCV? Just trying to figure out in my mind how this needs to be routed so i can make sure i have all the necessary materials

 

That would work just fine. Just need to cap the hard line that the PCV connects to. To prevent a vacuum leak.

Is your PCV valve metal or plastic? His was plastic.

 

Got sick of fighting the stock ecu, so did this exercise again tonight. Gonna start saving for a standalone but will be running the stockers and 840cc 5th to start with the new turbo setup

 

Haltech is good stuff. My buddy's RX-7 is managed by one. They’re based right here in my home town....so I've been to a couple of there tuning days. Lots of fun.

 

Well damn, thats awesome, yeah i think thatll solve most of my complaints. And I remember seeing this project car once before. Definitely cool

 

No boost drop there. Lol!

I bet that runs very well!

 

Oh no....no drop! We put a new JDM long block in it not quite 2 years ago. Dumped the OE twin turbos for a single Borg Warner EFR 8374. Exhaust, intake, fuel system work of course. All controlled by a Haltech Elite 1000 which he literally drove 5 miles down the road to buy.

Lots of suspension work as well. He auto-x's it regularly. It's not his daily driver.

2700 pounds, 400+ hp. You do the math.

Zoom Zoom

 

well im neck deep in an upper oil pan swap and i just found out i think i ordered the wrong o-ring for the oil pump

 

Good for the ride-along hundred dollar challenge. Lol

 

Can you reuse the old one, and or add gasket maker to the top of it?

 

No doubt