Battery died- now I have p0335 and other codes- help.

Help!
Recently I replaced the clock spring and the steering angle sensor. Cleared up my previous codes. Great! I got like literally half a day of driving, and came back to start the truck and all I could hear was the starter click and the dash lights fade off and on.

Checked codes and now I have a p0335 code and my traction / collision light sensors are on.
im getting p0335 and U0126(which I previously cleared with steering angle sensor replacement)

I replaced the battery with a new one. The codes still appear and I’m at a loss for words. I’m getting so annoyed and tired of trying to fix this dam issue.

will the codes clear themselves after awhile of driving? Do I really need to take my truck to the dealership to have them reset everything?

I have an innova ob2 with abs and tried to clear the codes myself. No luck this time around.

The permanent code p0335 and the U code. I’ve never had so much of an issue with a vehicle until this happened. Any help or insight! I’ve been reading nearly every post on Tacoma world but nothing that helps. Maybe someone else has had this happened?

 

Just cause you changed the battery doesn't mean it's good.
Where did you get it ?
Disconnect both battery terminals in proper sequence, clean connections thoroughly, tighten properly and try again.
What you describe sounds like a bad battery, poor connections to me.
Try before going down the rabbit hole.

 

brand new from autozone- tested it out before buying.
Duralast plat

 

for steering angle, check fuses



for p0335, check harness for crank position sensor - pax side of the engine

 

Thank you for the suggestion- I’m searching for the fuse location for the steering angle sensor- do you know which fuse box it’s in(engine bay or in cab?)

thanks!

 

ICU-B in the engine's compartment box, ICU -IG - inside the cabin's box
You may need to check the connector on the spiral cable for any pin damage.

P0335, does the truck run?

 

Ok will check this right now and update- thank you.

as for the PO335 code- it cleared itself…. the battery must of caused this problem.

 

Update: checked fuses and they both are good.

I’m starting to think it’s because my sangle sensor isn’t an oem one.
I wonder if it could really be that. The new one I installed only lasted a day of driving.

 

Yes, logically the cable and the connector will be your next step. Pay attention to pins and the tension of the pins.
Aftermarket parts do add a unknown variable to the equation.

 

This is just a theory (haven't dealt with anything like this on mine yet), but what I think happens in cases like this is that the extreme voltage drop that occurs from trying to start the engine with a weak battery corrupts parts of the truck's electronic systems, which you then see as errors on the dash (maybe as a kid you had an electronic game toy that when the 9V or AA batteries died, it would go haywire, make wailing noises and scramble the display all up... Sortof the same thing in effect here with the truck). Nothing is physically broken or damaged, just the internal data is corrupted.

If you remove all power by disconnecting the battery for 10-20 minutes may clear things up (if not the code itself) once you reconnect the battery (resetting / rebooting things). Any permanent code(s) remaining should eventually clear on its own.

I'd try putting the original angle sensor back in to see if it's still good (I suspect it is) but do have the battery disconnected while doing so.

 

High level: Permament DTCs will clear on their own. They are there to prevent people from pulling the battery or clearing codes with a service tool to pass an inspection. That legislation came out about 15 years ago.

You want to look for things like “active” or “pending” or “current” on a DTC to know if the problem is still there. The light will go off after two regulated drive cycles if the problem is resolved. Based on your posts above it looks like this one already went away.

The U code (communications) could be for a million different reasons. Check your connections, wiring and the part.

 

Ok update:

thanks to everyone who replied and tried to help!

it seems it was a battery problem.
crank sensor was cleared on its own after driving for a little.
Now for the SAS.
I didn’t remove the entire steering wheel this time. I just took the screws off to reveal the sad plug. I disconnected and plugged in the oem one. That changed my code completely to a “C” code it’s read of the u0126. So I assume the angle sensor got fried or damaged? Idk but I plugged back the aftermarket sensor and left it alone. Came back 1 hour later and turned the truck on… BAM NO LIGHTS OR MALFUNCTIONS.

the only thing different I did was connect the sad sensors WITH the parking break on. Idk if that helps but I read somewhere you have to have the parking break on to reprogram something.

anyways that’s what I did. I’m having replacement SAS sent to me by the company I ordered with. BUT I’ll leave it alone as is- if it ever pops up with a u0126 code then I’ll just swap the new SAS I will receive.

thanks again everyone- your input got my brain thinking differently and ultimately the errors fixed themselves after the new battery and parking break trick. Haha

 

Glad to hear you got it sorted out!

 

The connector was not fully plugged. One or a few pins did not have a proper contact causing the conn issues