Battery relocation made simple. Questions.

Water isn't necessarily a problem, more so because it's AGM. I don't really see how dirt can be an issue? Assuming it gets rear mounted, the battery would be mounted with good clearance above the frame and the muffler would be beside it most likely, just sitting lower then the battery itself. Not close obviously to avoid radiant heat issues.

 

Where under the bed were you thinking?

Any way of accessing the built in cubbie holes? With some modifications of course....

 

Well hell, if you're talking custom solutions, how about a coil bucket/engine cage crossbar with an integrated battery tray mounted on the passenger side? Lol, two birds, one stone.

 

That's what I was wondering. I dont think there would be room though.

Right by the muffler area. The muffler would have to be moved over and I woul probably mount it upside down.

I am getting a crossbar built for it next month. I cant picture there being space on the passenger side though. Pictures? More insight on that one?

 

I don't know, half joking around. You'd prob have to relocate all sorts of stuff.

 

Airplane!!!

 

Id probably the the best way to provide you with future easy access to the battery... Who knows how much trimming of the bed you'd need to make it work though...

 

If its mounted upside down the bracket could be flush with the frame and crossmember mounted on the frame and the battery would be upside down, so there would virtually be no trimming to the bed, and it would be a stealth style mount battery mount setup.

 

Another spot that could be cool, though it would require some cutting and custom stuff, is the storage box where the factory jack is mounted. You could sink it down through the floor.

 

I owe all my creative influences to Testors.

 

There still is the possibility of frame mounting it up front, but again structural rigidity is paramount in my situation. I want to have the most strength possible, but I dont want to compromise the fender well/ radiator bulkhead support sheetmetal either.

 

Long wires and you're referring to voltage drop which only comes in to effect when the wiring is about 1,000' long .. Lol. Well for AC purposes it is anyway.

 

Lol it amplifies further with DC voltage systems. The length of the wiring run is much more sensitive to drops.

 

However if it was set up like I initially posted, while your engine is running all the factory connections are still pulling power exactly where they were before, two feet from the alternator. I really only see it being an issue when starting.

 

Where did you say it was a good idea initially? I searched through the postings and found nothing about you talking about mounting it by the fender factory location? You mean with the remote mount terminals?

 

Yes, the distribution points are right there in the factory battery location where all the factory wiring is still hooked to.

 

I considered that area, but you are still utilizing the soft sheetmetal of the cab that's what I don't like about it.

 

Yeah the issue is starting though like you mentioned, voltage strain on the starter which could potentially cause a shorter life expectancy to it.

 

No denying that. There's just no way around a trade-off somewhere. It may lead to premature alternator failure as well.

 

Yeah hell yeah and that looks like a total bitch to replace and work on. Maybe I should talk to the fabricator about frame mounting it to the front. Hm... I'll have to look at the available space in the front to be able to do that.