Battery tests good, but says to replace.

https://testmeterpro.com/parasitic-draw-test-with-a-multimeter/

Had to go through this on an '08 silverado.

Basic procedure: Disconnect the negative, connect a multimeter in series in current mode, read the amp draw.

If you see a reading of around 50mA and above on a standard car, it generally means something is drawing power and you likely have parasitic draw. Just note that if you have a big, modern, luxury car its added computerized systems will likely increase the natural current draw. In this instance, the threshold might be 100mA. (This is from link above).

It's not like a parasitic draw will be 52mA, where the norm is 50mA, and you might just be confusing a normal draw with a parasitic draw. That silverado was up around 250mA or 450mA (it was a while ago) and very much so a flag.

IF there is parasitic draw, but it just sounds like you got the shit end of the unlucky stick that is the junk stock batteries they use.

 

It sounds like these batteries are junk. If I were in MN I would not want another one even if covered under warranty. It's not worth the time (for me at least) dicking with the dealership. I would just buy a quality battery and move on.

 

All dealerships have the "battery tester"! If the truck has no starting issues you most likely don't need a battery.

 

So little update from this. Last night I disconnected all my electronics to let the truck sit overnight. Its -7 out and I went to start the truck this morning. Fired right up. So I plugged everything except my light bar. Looking at the light bars wiring, the relays are pretty ugly looking with corrosion. Im going to let the truck sit for awhile with everything but the light bar plugged in and see if it starts in the morning.

Im still going to get a new battery, because the test they did would indicate a crappy battery to begin with.

 

Was going to say the same thing. Warranty a Northstar AGM? Sure. Waste my time with the stock battery? Nope. As it is I'll be replacing my stock battery way before it ever gives up.

 

Honestly if it was me and they refused to change it the first time, i'd just go out and pick up an interstate battery and call it a day. IMO its not worth the headache and stress of dealing with those scumbags. Just my $0.02

 

Thats the plan right now. Looks like I have a draw in my light bar right now thats draining the battery power overnight. The battery in the truck is still trash, so I am grabbing a new agm from costco this weekend (have to order it)

 

My 2017 midwest life battery is probably due for a change, plan is to swap it later this year before the next winter. $100 bucks and peace of mind is worth it. I hate wasting 3-4 hours at a dealership only for them to say then can't find the issue and won't replace. Nothing more aggravating when you know it needs replacement.

 

The crappy part about having Toyota replace the battery under warranty is that your best case scenario is they give you a new crappy battery.

After several failures under warranty for my wife's Rav4 and the stories here, I pulled my stock battery before it died and replaced it with an AGM replacement.

It's just not worth the hassle of getting stuck somewhere and then having to wait and argue to a dealer about the replacement.

 

Wouldn't waste another second with the dealer. Had similar issue with a Toyota battery, still under warranty. Took it out of my Sequoia and drove to dealer only to have them tell me they needed the whole vehicle and refused to even test the battery. Went straight to Autozone and simply bought a new battery.

 

Sounds like you are finding a potential drain on the battery. Fix that, then replace the battery.

Strongly suggest to get a Batt with as many CCA as possible. Look for CCA above 750A, the more the better for sub-zero starts.

 

In my old BMW, when the battery went out we put in a a group 49 in it, 1000 cca and it fit in the battery tray in the trunk. That battery made the starter spin so fast in sub zero weather.

Im planning to get a agm interstate battery.

 

If you grab a battery tray from a 2nd Gen with tow package then you can go with a 27F battery.

 

Well guess my theory of a drain on the system was not right.... battery dead again today. So its off to costco once I get enough charge in the battery to get a new agm battery.

 

Bummer, get it swapped and be done with it. Let us know how those agm's from Costco are.

 

and the price please, I know their standard Interstates are around 90 where I live, curious about the AGM ones.

 

159.99 for the agm
89.99 for the regular one

Their web page says they dont have any though, but Im still going to try to get one... if they dont have it ill just get the regular one till the agm comes back in stock... then put the regular one into my convertible.

 

Ok so decided to try the dealer again since costco didn't have any batteries in stock for the AGM.

I raised a little more hell this time and they are putting in a new battery. They will try to fail the old one later.

 

Good

 

Thank you!