Bed bolt torque spec?

Does anyone know what the torque spec is on the T55-headed M12 bed bolts? I didn't find anything about the bed on the Haynes manual.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bed-bolt-torque.726837/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/torque-spec-on-bed-bolts.608965/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bed-mount-bolt-torque-spec.470409/

 

According to Total Chaos Bed Stiffener instructions, T-55 Bed bolt - 60ft/lb

 

Whoops, needed an LMGTFY. Thanks!

 

Thanks!

 

Here you go.

Credit to @Saeros .

 

Although, you will need about 10,000 ft lb to break those SOBs loose.

Hit mine with a 250 ft lb pneumatic wrench after 3 day PB Blaster soak.......didn't budge.

 

I know there is a torque spec for everything, but why would you be concerned about your bed bolts? Crank them down and move on.

 

^^^^^^

 

Because I only have rudimentary mechanical skills -- so I don't know which ones are more important and which ones are less important. When does one care about torque spec?

 

only way I could get mine off was a breaker bar with a 3 ft steel pipe on it for leverage

 

Good point. I typically don't use a torque wrench on bolts that can be easily enough replaced if they break, or won't be costly or dangerous should they strip/break. It also takes a few cars to get a good understanding of what "snug" is. For instance, I wouldn't check the torque on the screws holding the cowling/shroud on the steering column. I would absolutely check the torque specs on suspension components and head gaskets, rifle stock mounting bolts, etc. One thing is that the bed bolts get so corroded it is tough to get a proper torque spec.

 

I am all about nickel anti seize compound or loc tire, depending on the application

 

You care about specs when it effects important mechanical relationships, such as engine components, suspension components, drive line etc. Static items such as bed mounts, fender bolts, etc, aren't that big of a deal. As long as it's tight, it's fine.

 

Lug nuts and anything related to the block (crank, heads, manifold, etc.) Pretty much everything else just apply as much force to tighten as it took to break it loose.

 

Sorry, need to disagree.

Many times a fastener with corrosion or locking fluid will require significantly more torque to remove than what is specified to tighten.

Suggest to pass on the this advice, "Pretty much everything else just apply as much force to tighten as it took to break it loose."

 

You mean when I have to add 3 feet of pipe to breaker bar to get a bolt out I shouldn't do the same to tighten it?!

 

Agreed. amount of torque and when you need to be concerned about it's particular importance is very much a experience and application thing.

Lots of people have lost wheels on the highway because they dont understand this.

 

Exactly!
Good example, Thx

I recently had a battle with a valve cover bolt. It was corroded to the block, the head snapped off. Then it required heat, 10" vise grips, many blue words, blood sacrifice.....before it released its grip. Replaced all valve cover fasteners with new bolts and nuts. IIRC, the torque spec is 21 IN LBS. I'm sure I used much more than 21 in lbs to remove.

BTW, this was on the engine.

 

Of course you have to apply a little common sense. If you are not capable of doing so then you might be the type that has to refer to the manual. Don't think for a second that the guys and gals that built your truck when back and checked every bolt with a torque wrench.