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Bed Light Wiring Help

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Slesse, Jan 30, 2013.

  1. Apr 18, 2013 at 11:55 AM
    #41
    6spd

    6spd Well-Known Member

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    I just want the lights to come on when any door is open, for simplicity's sake :eek:.
     
  2. Apr 18, 2013 at 12:06 PM
    #42
    ProForce

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    Then the diagram and instructions I gave on previous page will work perfectly.

    Make note that some people think its easier to tap behind the cluster to the single wire that illuminates the open door light on the dash.... This Does NOT work! Ask me how I know :eek:
     
  3. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:30 AM
    #43
    ProForce

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    OK, OP, I have found the simplest solution for you (I think). You will need:
    - 1 four or five pin standard automotive relay
    - 2 fuse holders
    - 1 five amp fuse
    - 1 fuse according to light power rating
    - 1 three way switch (in-cab)
    - 1 basic 2 way switch (tailgate override)
    - 1 three way or two way waterproof switch for in-bed (depends on wiring method)
    - 3 one amp diodes.
    - lots of wire and connectors.

    This is what I came up with. Please tell me if you notice anything wrong. Im tired and may have overlooked something. This diagram does not account for the lighting in the switch. That wiring will be determined by the switch you use. It also does not allow an override for the dome light auto activation. Only and override for tailgate. This is a ground (-) switched circuit. Here is my diagram:

    uploadfromtaptalk1366791740829.jpg

    There is an easier way to wire it though but I'm not sure you'll like it. Basically the diagram shown allows from the in-cab switch the lights to be off always, on always, or auto which is triggered by any door being opened, or the tailgate being dropped. The in-bed switch allows it to remain in auto (whatever the in-cab switch is set to) or off always or on always. The reason I wired it this way is so that if the lights are turned on from the interior switch and you want to temporarily turn them off from the outside, you can do so. The easier wiring I'm about to show will not allow the second in-bed switch to override the interior switch. It will only allow for you to turn the lights on anytime regardless of interior switch position. In the following diagram, changes in red indicate the new simpler wiring. The first method requires a 3 way switch in the bed and the second method requires only a basic 2 way switch for the bed. Make sure its waterproof.

    uploadfromtaptalk1366792244571.jpg
     
  4. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:40 AM
    #44
    ProForce

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    For the tailgate pin, you can use the one recommended in the second post like this:

    uploadfromtaptalk1366792422338.jpg

    However, I highly recommend one that looks like this:

    uploadfromtaptalk1366792464476.jpg

    It has a little runner boot seal and is better for the weather conditions. It may look like this also:

    . uploadfromtaptalk1366792600243.jpg

    That one can be cut at each notch to make for added adjustability during install. Its what I'm using. Looks like this once installed:

    [​IMG]

    Notices I cut mine down to the last notch. Looks almost OEM and even installs in the OEM hole. Just remove the runner bump stop for the tailgate and it slides right in.
     
  5. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:47 AM
    #45
    Asianguywithatruk

    Asianguywithatruk Well-Known Member

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    ^^^Where can I find one like that? The last one...
     
  6. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:51 AM
    #46
    ProForce

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    When I used to work at a shop they had them for us to use during installs. I used one from the shop. Never seen one for sale though except for the first pic. I did a Google search for hoodpin switch and just found a picture of the one I have. (Middle 2 pics) and the last pic is my modified version of it. Maybe try eBay :notsure:
     
  7. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:58 AM
    #47
    ProForce

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  8. Apr 24, 2013 at 2:03 AM
    #48
    ProForce

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  9. Apr 24, 2013 at 6:18 AM
    #49
    B737

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    no need to reinvent the wheel or draw electrical schematics.
    tap into the blue wire thats the modulated dome light ground, and use an add a circuit for your + side. run the wires to the bed. the LED ribbon will operate when the doors are open. its an intuitive fool proof way to not drain your battery. (as well as not mess around with adding door switch plungers that will keep the bed lights on if you have gear in your bed and the tailgate open). an LED ribbon will be about 2 amps additional on the ECU, which is not an issue. there are guys on the forum running far more than that off the dome circuit.

    the ground is only modulated when the light fades on and off. so once the ground modulates down, the LEDs shut off. whats the concern with that? what matters is they stay on when the doors are open. there is no other 'erratic activity'.

    here is how i wired mine. people really over complicate this particular mod. it doesnt need to be overwhelming.

    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/267483-led-lights-under-truck-2.html#post6780444
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2013
  10. Apr 24, 2013 at 11:10 AM
    #50
    ProForce

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    B737, thanks for the info, but I don't think you read the entire thread. This is was over engineered for a reason. OP wants multiple switch locations, an auto on/off feature, manual on/off, and an override option. Even if they just used your method, the entire wiring schematic i drew does not change except instead of 3 door pin wires you have 1. The rest remains the same. Also just to note that we have 2 different people in here with 2 different situations, so the replies and solutions may get confuse you. Some are not as electrically inclined and need visual representation to help them. Not everyone understands what a relay and diode does. That's the whole point of asking for help. And you recommending just running the lights straight to the dome circuit without a relay makes me question your advice all together. Nowhere does anyone state these are LEDs, what if OP is using 2 halogen flood lights... Tapping directly to a circuit is dangerous, and just because it hasn't caused problems for you yet doesn't mean it won't for someone else. Propel shouldn't give advice if they don't have the educational knowledge and background to support their theory.
     
  11. Apr 24, 2013 at 11:19 AM
    #51
    B737

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    I wasn't responding to OP. I was responding to the guy I quoted. :confused:

    We're not launching rockets here.
     
  12. Apr 24, 2013 at 11:52 AM
    #52
    Slesse

    Slesse [OP] Tacoma level 27

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    Thanks for the detailed reply, but it looks like cab switch acts as a master not allowing you to turn the bed lights off as a 3-way from the cab once turned on from the bed.

    If I make this into a negatively switched circuit it would probably work right? I need an extra diode though.

    [​IMG]

    Also, in my case I am using LED's but I do like the idea of keeping this in general terms. I actually prefer to run everything through relays, keeps the system clean and safe
     
  13. Apr 24, 2013 at 1:17 PM
    #53
    ProForce

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    Wow that diagram confused the crap out of me haha. This is already a ground switched system. I don't think there is a way to make each switch override the other like in a house where you can have 2 switched for the same light, idk how to make that work for this application.
     
  14. Sep 16, 2013 at 5:08 PM
    #54
    ddungo

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    I do not know if anyone was able to get this post answered properly. This mod does not require a lot of wiring. One from battery, one from switched power source, ground can be installed in the rear near the relays. I was thinking of putting my relays on left, in the storage area. There is no need to worry about the inside switch being on/off or the bed switch, the relays will help control this.

    So far I have my bed lights on a switch in the cab. I did not use a relay since the LED lights do not require a lot of power. I have not decided if I wanted to have my bed lights triggered on when the tailgate is down. If I do, I need two relays, one for the switched side and one for the negative trigger.

    Relay 1 is wired as a normal relay and must have a post for 87a:

    30 - 12V positive (always on)
    86 – from switch
    85 – ground
    87 – to bed lights
    87a – to 86 on Relay 2

    For those who do not know 87a is always power untill 86 (from switch) has power, which activates the coil to switch the power 87 (to bed lights).

    On Relay 2, 85 will be configured with the negative trigger pin/toggle switch.

    30 - 12V positive (always on)
    86 – from relay 1 (87a)
    85 – connected to negative trigger pin/toggle switch
    87 – to bed lights

    When the tailgate is closed the negative circuit is open, LIGHTS ARE OFF, the relay is not powered. When you open the tailgate, the trigger pin will close the connection and ground the relay, LIGHTS ARE ON. This will complete the circuit to activate the coil to power 87 (to bed lights).

    If you installed a toggle switch inline on 85, turning the switch off will disconnect the ground, LIGHTS ARE OFF. Turn the switch on to complete the ground, LIGHTS ARE ON.

    As of 6:00 pm on September 16, 2013, I mocked up the two relays, ground trigger and bed switch on my truck so I know this works.

    I hope this helps.
     
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