Bed liner on plywood?

should be just foine

 

I think the stuff you suggest is banned in my state...

 

Go grad a sack of sand. Put a thick coat of paint on, while its still tacky sprinkle sand all over. After it dries put another coat of paint on and you will have the texted paint, non slip.

 

Why not deck coating? This is a good reference. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/deck-coatings-that-fail/

 

I’m not worried about the texture (plus I’d have more skin on the deck than my knees if I did that). I need elastomeric properties to keep it sealed.

 

You will need to prime the wood. My guess it should be a solvent based primer assuming the bed liner is solvent based.

 

really? pfff

 

Scorpion, I have it in my SSO bumper and Mobtown sliders. My SSO has been on for a year and half and is just as good as day one.

 

Yep. I think all alkyd stuff is pretty much extinct here!

 

Thanks!

 

Cool I’ll see if I can find it

 

Good enough for a rush job. Just need to get that coating on.

 

Yes it will, again just make sure you have thick coats, also you will need to make sure that your joints are rock solid and have zero play/movement.

 

sorry to wake up an old thread, but....

how well do most of these rubberized products hold up to UV? looking to build a 4x6 trailer on the cheap.. thinking 2"x2" boxtube frame, 4'x6', and building a 4'x6'x3'-4' plywood box on top of the frame with steel angle on the outside conrers for strength with a couple tiedowns/ welded D-rings so I can winch the trailer into position when offroading, as well as use as a recovery point at the rear when towing. I want to mount my RTT on top, and tow all my camping gear in the trailer, recovery gear can stay in the bed of my truck under the tonneau cover..

box would likely be covered on the exterior, and interior floor with bed liner.. just wondering if my OLD info about older formulas stands true that they dont stand up to UV very well, start to fade, dry out and crack... and not be repairable... would like to keep items int eh trailer as dry as possible.. trailer will get a 3500lb axle, and same size tires/rims as my truck.. hopefully with options for trailer brakes in the future.. If I can get 10 years out of a box coated in bedliner....thats not bad....

 

If you start out with marine grade wood, and then apply a coating on top of that, it should last a very long time. It's going to be heavy though.

 

I was thinking more along the lines of 1/2, or slightly thicker ply and use steel angle welded to a skeleton on the corners/sides to re-inforce it, and the roof.. RTT will have some crosbars (probably tubing to make a slight raised rack to mount it).. then coating the entire outer of the box to seal it... and bolt in, and seal a aluminum diamond plate, or sheet metal floor in..

 

I wouldn't go any thicker than 1/2". 3/4" is heavy. And I think that you might find that you have a weight problem with this build. Sounds like you have a good plan for a cheep build. I might suggest that you go an alternate route. If you could find a worn out Pop-Up for cheep, it would give you a lighter foundation for start. Either way - Good Luck Brother.

 

seen a couple, just not sure the frames are up to the task.. especially where I may want to put timbren independant axles on it at some point. as well as have recovery point on the rear of the trailer.. yeah thinking 1/2" ply will be plenty, especially when coated with bed liner...

 

sorry about the off topic question, are you using sliders? Or how does the box slide out? Very interested in doing something similar, I’ve been wanting something simple like yours.

 

I didn’t use sliders for two reasons: one of which was cost either in money to buy or time to fabricate or source. I started building them a week before a 3 week trip to Mexico and just needed something to help stay organized.

The other reason was that I could imagine having to open them on a forward/rearward incline and I wanted some friction to keep the drawers from rolling open or shut while trying to get something in or out. Add to that some kind of recovery situation and it would be pretty frustrating.

So, I just built the drawers with 1/8” clearance on all sides and waxed the bottom of the boxes to add lubricity. I think it was a good choice.