Bed stiffener trouble.

Wicked. Thanks man that'll definitely help

 

You not an a&p are you?

 

You can build an inductive heating coil for MUCH cheaper than that. Look them up on eBay.

Yep, cheap and definitely worth it to have one and some bits in your toolbox. They work great for removing the stubborn countersunk screws for door latches, too.

 

Or just normal anti-seize

 

Mine's a Craftsman that's got to be nearly that old, mid 90s for sure.

 

One of the few times I felt rich enough to buy Snap On. It's only a 3/8", but it does the trick. Used the heck out of it on my old 3/4 ton Dodges.

 

Negative.

 

If you can't soak it with homemade ATF/acetone or kroil oil, the best otc would be liquid wrench. Don't use wd40.
As for impact tools, I sold all my air tools and invested in 20V dewalt and 18v ryobi cordless tools. It made easy work removing these bed bolts after soaking it with liquid wrench overnight. I would avoid Harbor freight sockets in difficult scenarios like this simply to avoid stripping the bolt. Husky tools from HD worked fine for me.

 

I’ve never liked the idea of anti-seize on suspension or any structural bolts really but either one should work fine

 

you must not live in a salty area. I have anti-seize on any bolt that might see elements. Inside the truck, no. Outside - bumpers, suspension, skids, yes.

I dont put it on my wheel studs

 

wow.

I want one

 

Grab one, they're like $20. Not used all the time, but when ya need it... ya need it.

 

Seriously they will save your ass... you can get em in all sizes. I have one that holds lil tips you would put in a drill or screwdriver for smaller screws. SAVED MY ASS this weekend on a rebuild of shower valves, screw that held the handle on had corroded to the valve and was going to strip the Philips head with a normal screw driver. Few good hits with one of those n the screw came undone.

 

I originally bought mine to do brakes on a Honda Civic I owned back in Missouri (e.g. at the edge of the rust belt). They have two screws that hold the rotor to the hub that are notorious for seizing. If I remember the FSM procedure even calls for it.

 

so let me ask this.

Why would you opt with this method vs an actual impact?

I could see using this method if its in a tight space that wouldnt accomodate a full impact drill. Or even out on the trail where an impact may die due to a dead battery, etc.

 

With this inexpensive little tool, torque is applied as you hit the end of it. So it really digs in as it applies torque to prevent slipping. This also helps jar the threads (through the force of a hammer applied to the back of the tool) which also helps break it loose.

 

This was the only tool that I had luck removing those 2 screws for the rotors on a beater Honda I owned a few years back. One of a few handy HF investments with their 20% off coupons.

 

Yup.... done a honda or two with those headaches of a screw. Never put them back in as they are only there to make assembly easier on the line.

 

Yeah fortunately rust is not much of an issue in this area I take all the same preventative measures anyway though old habits from living on the coast

 

As @shaeff mentions the hammer strike tends to set the bit and shock the fastener. With those torqued Phillips and Torx the strike helps prevent them from walking out. To some extent the cordless impact drills that are available now are fairly similar (I don't think completely still) substitutes but at the time the alternative was a pneumatic impact wrench and that's a different tool.