BenWA's 2005+ Power Sliding Rear Window Quick Install Kit

Great idea VitaminB! I toyed around with similar concept, because having the barrel adjuster greatly simplifies the tensioning process. Let us know how that setup holds up over time, because I think it will make things a lot simpler for the typical DIY'er.

 

Gotcha, no worries. I bought the cable I intend to use at OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware). They had several sizes of cable called "Aviation Cable" but was the same thing as brake/derailer cable just a lot less stiff. They had it in Stainless and one other material (sorry, can't remember).

OK, so the cable does need to be "anchored" at the end or have something that holds the end of the cable solidly in place before it hooks up to the window bracket, like Bens brackets that secure the cable to the window frame. I am planning on something like Bens version, except it will be located outside the window track (one at each end).

Here is what I was thinking of doing:

1. Mounting the motor/regulator in that little "hole" I made in the back wall.
2. I am going to go with longer cables so that the cable can enter the window track through a hole at the very end of the window track on both sides.
3. I will either use a bicycle brake cable noodle or cut the corner plastic pieces that came with the Ridgeline assembly to make the turn from the back wall into the window track. I will have to secure the piece tightly no matter what I use.
4. I want as much adjustability as possible in the system, so I was thinking about using those cable adjusters in conjunction with a Hex Bar Turnbuckle like the one pictured below. Picture one cable adjuster installed on BOTH ends of the hex turnbuckle and the turnbuckle installed in-line (one on each cable). That way you would have plenty of adjustment on both sides without having to remove any parts.
5. I will probably use Bens window bracket instead of the nylon one that I made. I bought some cable ends at the bike shop that fit perfectly into the holes on Bens window brackets and I have the right crimping tool. As Ben stressed in his earlier post, I just want to make sure I have a VERY solid bite on those end pieces. I may even try to solder them before crimping.

Adio: To answer your earlier question, I bought the cable adjusters on eBay (don't have them yet) HERE. You can get them at the bike shop too.

Here is a pic of the type of hex bar turnbuckle I was thinking of using:

Cable Adjusters:

Nylon corner pieces included with Ridgeline assembly:

Noodle:

Motor/Regulator assembly mounted in back wall:

 

Hey Guys,

These are the cable stops I used. I just drilled a hole the same size as the small end of the cable stop and then found a washer that fit over the small end but not the next section of the cable stop. I used that washer to prevent the rest of the stop from pulling through the soft plastic that was drilled through to insert the cable stop. The pressure from the cables, etc keeps everything in place. This was really easy and I cannot imagine it ever pulling through because the washer will easily prevent that from happening.

 

pics of your setup please!

 

There is a picture of the cable stop set in the plastic on page 66 of this thread. You cannot see the washer I slid over the first part of the cable stop in the picture. When you drill the hole, make sure you do it as high up as possible in that recessed part of the back wall of the cab. I did it too low the first time and the cable was not in line with my window bracket and it inhibited the window's movement to that side when being opened. When I want to adjust the cable tension I just grab the smaller part of the stop with a pair of needle nose pliers and screw back the thumb screw with my fingers. Works really nice for me.

I don't have any other pictures of my setup, but I can take some tonight if you would like it. What specifically are you interested in?

 

Just found the brand name, etc. for the cable stops I used. They are called "Jagwire Rocket II Inline Cable Adjuster". They run $10-15 a pair depending on where you order from.

 

I added some more pics to my post #1321 (above) to give a better idea of my approach. I want to buy a couple of hex bar turnbuckles and tap them so that the cable adjusters fit into each end. As you can see the Ridgeline motor/regulator will be installed in a cavity (hole) made in the back wall. Then I will have some length of cable housing coming out from the regulator for 12" or so and then the cable housing will go into the adjuster that is attached to the hex turnbuckle. A new cable housing will continue out the other side of the hex bar (where the other adjuster is installed) and run up to the "angle stop". The angle stop will be an anchored piece that allows the cable itself to make the 45deg. or so turn into the window channel. A hole would be made in each end of the window channel to allow the cable to come through and attach to the window bracket. I would do as Ben did and tighten up the cable through the assembly BEFORE attaching to the window bracket (like he did with the tie wraps in his video) AND make sure that the adjusters were all the way in (to allow for the most tightening/adjustment).
Once all of that was done I would do as Ben suggested and test the window an inch or two at a time and tighten the adjusters accordingly. Does this make ANY sense?
Ken

 

Oh, BTW, watch out for the bicycle components that you buy them. On JagWires site they mention that some items are for derailer use NOT brake use. That tells me that one system (brake versus derailer) gets more stress than the other. I am buying the most "heavy duty" parts that I can find and I am also going to lube the hell out of the cable and moving parts with some Silicone grease.
Just my 2 cents.
Ken

 

Brake cables are definitely stiffer and thicker and they are under more stress. You can go to your bike and squeeze your brake as hard as you can and it will not damage anything. Your life depends on your brakes and brake components need to be very strong. That being said, if you go to your bike and prevent your derailleur from moving and you push your shift lever as hard as you can your lever will brake before a cable brakes or a stop fails.

It is more likely the top of the plastic blue stops inside the regulator motor would rip off before a cable stop fails... or the stop could be pulled through the soft plastic of the window sill, or an anchor bolted to the widow sill could be ripped off.

The motors are strong, but not that strong.

 

...my biggest concern is that pressure from the bracket when closing the window would brake the window because of the localized force at the bottom corner of the window. To address this I put a cable stop from O'reiley auto parts (attached picture) on the driver side cable line to hit at the end of the channel just before the widow closes to absorb the force and take it off the bottom corner of the window at the bracket position.

 

I guess I was not so worried about the cable itself, but the bicycle parts (adjusters, etc.). Some of the parts say "Not suggested for brake use" and they are intended to be used with the derailer system. Also, Ben was VERY adamant about the stiffer cables wearing down the spool on the inside of the regulator. I guess what I am trying to say is that like Ben suggested, we use a less stiff cable. As far as the other parts, I just want as heavy duty as possible. I am a definite believer in overkill.
VitaminB: What kind of window bracket are you using?
Ken

 

My only point was that I think there are other things in the system that would fail before the cable adjuster (like all the plastic pieces in the motor). They put "not recommended for brake use" because they have not tested tolerances for the pressures required for braking. The other thing is that "in line" adjusters accept more force than a cable stop because there is no sharing of force with other components. I am using the "in line" adjuster as an "end of line" component and it will transfer the force applied to the washer and window sill that it butts directly against.

Currently I am using a home made bracket that is made out of a steel frame from a file cabinet. It was the perfect depth and height to fit the space. I bent the ends at 90 degrees and notched one to accept a cable stop (on passenger side) and on the other side I soldered on a nut to act as a loop, which a small hook attaches to from the driver side. I put the in line cable stop on the driver side to stop the window when closed because I know the soldered joint and small hook I am using could not take the pressure of the motor under load; when the window is freely moving they are strong enough. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of it.

All of that said, I have paid BenWa for one of his brackets and am waiting for it... Mine works fine, but his bracket is much, much better than what I have.

 

I was worried about the plastic adjusters like the JagWire inline adjusters. You are probably right, things should be ok, but again, I am an avid over killer.

Gotcha, totally understand. Makes total sense now.

Ben's bracket is WAY cool. I have one that I painted up and is ready to go, I am just waiting to receive my cable adjusters and pick up some more parts. Like I said (again and again) I overbuild the hell out of things when I can. I DO NOT like fixing a mod once installed, so it is kind of like Thanks V-B,
Ken

 

You can get ABS at Min Plastics in Kalihi near Costco area. They sell sheets. Let me know what size you need because I have some 1/8" on hand that I bought but I cut most of the sheet up into strips.

 

808UpFront- thanks for the offer man, but I decided to go the same route as VitaminB and Keninsb. By using cable adjusters as the cable anchor and a tensioner.

 

So finally had the time to put some things together. Painted the bracket and letting it dry over night.


As for the the anchor, I came up with this. Got some cable adjusters from a local bike shop. JB Welded the nut into this part that I got from local hardware store(I don't even know what it's called haha). It has like this sharp prongs on it that'll attach itself to the rubber trim.






As you can see with my current set up I've use the nylon corners. One problem that I ran into was that the back rest wouldn't sit flush against the back metal wall. Another one was the cable wasn't tension right as you can see with the springs on the regulator. Modified cable adjuster will replace this part. Funny thing though, it still works. I open and close it every day when driving the truck.

 

Adio, I think that setup looks really nice! I think you must have just enough tension in your springs to prevent the line from binding inside the motor, but I bet it is really close. I had mine that way for awhile and as you open and close the window the spring compression alternates from side to side. If you lose tension and you get slack in the line it will bind up inside the motor and trash the plastic spool.

One more thing, new cables will stretch and new cable housing will compress with use. I don't know if it could loosen things up enough to cause any problems, but it might be a good idea for everyone to make sure everything looks okay after using the window for a little bit. Better safe than sorry.

 

VitaminB- thanks man. Yups, it wasn't solid but it did function very well.

Took everything apart today. Replaced with new cables and installed the cable adjuster. JB Welded the cut end so they don't fray, and just waiting for it to dry up before I put back everything together.

 

Got everything reinstalled today. Big time improvement to what I was running before, especially the pull/pull bracket from BenWa. Kept everything simple with just a few parts. Cable adjusters helped big time in having tensions on the springs. Everything is working as is I'll post up a vid tomorrow. Thanks again BenWa, keninsb and VitaminB.

Tensions aren't perfect, but it's a lot better than the one before.
After

Before



Driver side cable adjuster.

Passenger side cable adjuster.