BenWA's 2005+ Power Sliding Rear Window Quick Install Kit

Done


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1x6OtcWtrs&feature=youtu.be

 

Good job btaco05

 

If this goes for sale again. I am def still in

 

I have the following parts for sale if someone wants to try the install for the slider window:


Honda Motor Regulator as per BenWa specs.


A BenWa window bracket.


A Toyota switch to open and close and the adjustment screws.


$50.00 shipped, that is half the actual costs.


PM me if interested.


Max

 

Need pics

 

OK, Sorry for the delay on the update. Here is what I did: After sourcing the Honda regulator, I purchased a couple of bicycle derailleur cables from the local bicycle shop , and re-strung the new cables on the regulator motor. I did this by first freeing the tension on the existing cables. To free the tension I just cut the cables as I wouldn’t need them anymore. Next, I opened up the motor to expose the cable spool. The inside cable spool looks intimidating but it is not complicated. After opening the motor make a couple of reference marks on the spool and casing so as to locate the spool back in the right position. The cable in the front will wind around the spool 1 time, and the cable in the back winds 3 ½ times. Start with the back cable first. The die-cast cable ends on the cables look different than the original cables but they snap right into the slots and seem to hold very well. After winding the back cable first, place the spool back in the housing half way, and then wrap the front cable. To make this easier, I wound the cables around a socket tightly to pre-bend them just enough so they will hold their shape around the spool. After winding the new cables on the spool, I also packed the tracks and cables around the spool with lithium grease as I replaced it back into the housing. After this I sealed the motor back up.







To install the motor in the truck I used keninsb’s idea and cut a notch into the metal support bar that runs across the middle of the back of the cab (great idea keninsb). To get the notch in the right spot, I first drew an outline of the motor on cardboard, cut it out, and taped into the location I thought it should go. I then placed the plastic back panels back in their location 1 at a time to make sure I have enough clearance on each side for the plastic panels to go back into place. Once I had the notch cut, I used the mounting bracket that came with the regulator assembly to fabricate my own mounting brackets.








Instead of using the anchor bracket blocks, I purchased a couple of feet of metal brake-line tubing from the auto parts store. Drilled some small holes in the top support bar below the back window and ran the tubing through there. I bent the tubing so that it would wrap over the metal edge where the window track is, then into the window track. On the bottom end I bent the tubing to angle towards the regulator motor. I don’t claim this is better than the anchor blocks, just the path I chose with the parts I had.









Between the brake-line tubing and the motor assembly I ran a short section of cable housing with cable adjusters on each end. With cable adjusters on each end of the cables I get close to ¾ of an inch of adjustment in the cable.

I used BenWa’s method of holding the springs with zip ties. I further secured the zip ties by putting a small zip tie around the cable on top of the spring and the main zip tie to keep them locked in place on top of the springs. Once I got the cables ran and hooked up to the pull-pull bracket, just cuts the ties and the tension is set.
This project was not too difficult to do. The key here though is BenWa’s pull-pull bracket. This piece is nice. Well made, and fits perfectly. Without it, this install could be tough to do. BenWa graciously provided a drawing of the bracket on page 63 if one wanted to fabricate one up themselves. Or perhaps if we all beg nicely he could fab some up for sale to those who wish to pursue it (Ben ?). Source all of your parts first before starting. The hardest part of the install I had was finding a low-profile mini fuse add-in circuit to tie into the fuse box. Ended up having to order one on the Internet and that caused me a 5-day delay on finishing. With all the parts on hand and a good plan of attack this could be done in a day.
I completed this install over the Christmas break and I have since been opening and closing frequently while driving and it all seems very stable. No cable stretch so far. I will post if it grenades on me But, I am optimistic it will hold. If not, the repair would be easy enough.

I now call this one done. And with that, I gotta give props to Adio, VitaminB, and keninsb for their inputs in this. As well as everyone else who kept this thread alive and shared their ideas. But most of all, I give a huge shout-out to BenWa for putting this concept together. I have followed his postings on this idea and I know he has worked on this for several years. Nice job BenWa! If you decide to continue on this kit someday (and I hope you do) I will support it and I would highly recommend it to anyone. The parts you have are top-notch, and the price well worth it.


Ok, your turn next.

 

It's always easier with the pics. Thanks.

 

interested...PM sent

 

I haven't been on this thread for a while because I had pretty much given up on sourcing all the parts. Being from Canada, parts are not as readily available. A lot of the parts places on line do not ship to Canada, or ask a heafty price for shipping. I came here looking today and am really interested again. Kodos to Ben for all your work.

Ben, if you're no longer selling a kit, are you willing to sell an "almost kit"? What I mean is, are you willing to put all the parts together, such as the pull-pull bracket, switch, motor and cables, and sell it as parts. You can add a mark-up for saving us the trouble of sourcing the parts individually. You wouldn't need to include any instructions because we can find what we need in this thread. Those who buy the parts willl install at our own risk. I'd definately be interested.

 

What are the chances of you making another kit?

 

I am slowly accumulating the parts to do this mod. I plan on trying to conceal everything as much as possible like you btaco and keninsb. the question I have is roughly how much cable are you guys needing to use. would be good to get lots of answers, but especially the guys who have hidden the motors. I don't have the ridgeline unit yet, so I don't even know how long the cables are that come with that.

 

Hey SJ. I have to be honest, I have not pursued this mod. I still have it on my to-do list, but it just got bumped back because I have run out of switch locations and wanted to get something set up there first.
As far as the cable goes, Ben suggested NOT using bicycle cable as it is too stiff and can tear up the spool inside the motor. If you look back at one of my earlier posts, I had bought some cable from Orchard Supply Hardware that they called "Aviation Cable". I am not sure if I listed a part number or not. It is definitely not as stiff as the bicycle cable and is a better match for what we are using it for. They also have it made of stainless steel and another type (sorry can't remember what).
The length of the cable is going to depend on how you are routing the cables, etc. so you really won't know until the last minute. I just bought plenty and have extra left over, and that is what I would advise you to do. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Hope this helps. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Ken

 

thanks for the quick reply ken. I have read pretty much this entire thread so I saw what benwa suggested about the cable. I'm actually a tech and have a normal window regulator assy that i robbed the cable off of, so was just curious if it would work or not. If not i will definitely look into the aviation cable you mentioned. I understand there really are so many variables with this mod, so there really isn't one right number.

 

I did not measure my cable lengths but, I figure about 3' on drivers side and 4'on passenger side. Probably a little less. The Ridgeline regulator cables were close, but not close enough. The bicycle derailleur cables that I used were actually thinner and more flexible than the Ridgeline cables. My local bike shop sold them in bulk lengths of 8' for $4.00 ea. You will need two so as to get the proper cable ends. The regulator itself was $65.00. Let us know how it comes out.

 

Just gonna drop this here. IDK if it will fit our switch holes.

 

sub'd for info

 

^^ all the info you need is in the last couple pages.

 

Adio, I've been keeping an eye on the thread for some time. I'm in Japan right now and my truck is in storage, just lining up all the mods I want to do when I get back stateside.

 

It's so frustrating to be in Canada sometimes. I've been wanting to do this mod for years, but I can’t get parts here. I'm looking for the Ridgeline regulator, but none of the parts places in the US will ship to Canada. They want about $55 for one. So, I tried a dealer here in Canada and they want $113! What a rip-off! I don't even know where to start looking for aviation cable or a switch. If there are any Canadians here doing this mod, I would really appreciate some help getting the parts.

 

Can someone will order the bracket?