BenWA's version of a power sliding rear window retrofit >>>

Whether stock or modded, the first thing that will break is the glass, so it's equally vulnerable compared to stock. There is no way to force the regulator/trolly assembly to move, so the glass is the weakest link.

As I wrote in my OP, the glue joint failed on my original version with the plastic piece, so I came up with the aluminum bracket idea which works great. With the seatbacks locked in their upright position, you can't see any of the "business".

p.s., thanks for the good words!

 

bump for updates

 

Maybe I missed it while scanning through the OP, but did you have to do anything to the latch, so it would release when pulling open? Or does it unclip itself when the glass starts sliding?

 

Good call, I forgot to mention that. Kind of hard to explain, but I mounted that aluminum bracket that snaps onto the window glass in such a way that the trolly is at the end of its travel in the closed position before the latch clips. In other words, I opened the window pane about 1/16" when I fine-adjusted the mounting position of the aluminum bracket -- so when the trolly is at the end of it's travel, the window ends up being just shy of fully closed. It's still completely sealed by the weather stripping and everything, it just doesn't quite make it to the latched position.

I have been trying to think of a way to remove the latch from the glass altogether (simply for a cleaner look), but I don't think it's possible.

 

Am I seeing daylight on the bottom in a couple of the last photos?

 

Yeah... I could have mounted that bracket a little lower but didn't want to let it get too close to potenially rubbing/riding on the window frame when it actuates, because there is already enough inherent friction in the window as it is. I didn't see it as a big deal but if it bothers you I think you could definitely mount a similar bracket lower so that there is no daylight. My personal feeling is that it's all hidden behind the seat anyway so who really cares what it looks like, but YMMV.

 

Here's a vid of the window with the seatback folded down so you can get an idea of what it looks like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzMPcvDu2jE

 

I'm not gonna dog on ya, you did a great job and I really like it, but I can't have any openings like that, my alma mater is the one of the rainest towns in the nation. Don't need water gettin in!

Too bad I'm not still up in Astoria, I would have gladly come see it in person.

 

Very nice!!! So, how much installed? I'm local!

 

I say well done , mod of the year so far. In my reg cab I dont even have to look to open it one handed. Coming from a crew cab chev though, i can easily see the value fo the mod.

 

I like it.

 

Wait....what do u mean?? There's no actual opening or risk of leaking. Everything closes such that it is sealed.

 

Hey if u can get all the parts and a half rack of dos equip id help you with install

 

X10

 

I dig everything except the gap on bottom of glass.this thread should be a sticky

 

this is one great work..its true...not all of us have 6ft arms!! I say STICKY

 

Yeah, that gap could easily be eliminated by mounting the bracket a little lower. Would be a no brainer to tweak that aspect of it.

 

So, after talking to a couple of folks via pm's and e-mails, and with reading a couple of the posts here, I think I need to clarify some confusion about the daylight at the bottom of the window:

THERE ARE NO ACTUAL GAPS IN THE GLASS OR WEATHER STRIPPING AROUND THE WINDOW AND THERE IS NO RISK OF WATER LEAKING IN.

Watch the second video carefully. That "daylight" under the bracket is NOT an actual opening to the outside that weather can come through. I did nothing to change the size of the glass, or the size of the window opening, or to the position of how the glass sits within the opening.

If you don't like the cosmetics of the daylight between the bracket and the window frame, you could easily mount the bracket lower on the window glass so that there is no cosmetic gap.

Sorry for any confusion.

 

..........

 

Sounds like a side business opportunity for you. If you buy those and modify as necessary, then re-sell 'em. Since the linear actuators are in the $100 range, you could make some money here, depending on how long the actual motor mods take that is.