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Best bang for buck performance upgrades?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Union guy, Dec 19, 2013.

  1. Dec 19, 2013 at 3:19 PM
    #1
    Union guy

    Union guy [OP] Member

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    Shawn
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    Levelling kit, trd rims, hid headlights and fogs, westin light bar
    Just bought a 2010 Tacoma double cab and I can see that its gonna cost me a lot of money with everything I want to add on/upgrade. However, I'm happy to do it! I would like to start in on performance now that I have my lighting sorted out and wondered where I should begin? CAI, headers, exhaust are just a few of the things I've been reading about. I'm not gonna shell out the bucks for a supercharger or turbo but is there anything else I should look into? I did search first but couldn't find anything specific enough for me. If I missed a sticky or something relating directly to my question, I apologize. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Dec 19, 2013 at 3:56 PM
    #2
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Red hot glass pack muffler dumped preaxle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front and modified zuk mod coil spring lift for about 2" in rear paired with 5100 also. C channel front bumper.
    Best other than f/I are gonna be weight reduction mods. cheap for the most part (sometimes free) lighter wheels tires etc. cai exhaust won't net u much if any
     
  3. Dec 20, 2013 at 8:03 AM
    #3
    Union guy

    Union guy [OP] Member

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    Levelling kit, trd rims, hid headlights and fogs, westin light bar
    Really? That's it? No one else?
     
  4. Dec 20, 2013 at 8:06 AM
    #4
    ChamYota

    ChamYota AKA Crash Bandicoot

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    H1 Morimoto projector with XB35 4300K bulbs with Mini-gatling gun shrouds, BHLM. Debadged,OEM roof rack,TW sticker,Sockmonkey Beside decals,265/70/16 Nitto terra grapplers with dick cepek DC'2 wheels,weathertech floor liners(front/back),USA Spec Ipod reader,Scanguage II,Bestop Supertopper and more in the works...
    Supercharger. Everything else doesnt really work and it makes more noise to be honest.
     
  5. Dec 20, 2013 at 8:25 AM
    #5
    Super Werty

    Super Werty Sleeper 4x4

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    air and fuel
    Wait for the UCON to come out for 2010+

    it's coming!:cool:
     
  6. Dec 20, 2013 at 10:04 AM
    #6
    fyremanpat

    fyremanpat Well-Known Member

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    OME 886x and 5100's all the way around. Toytec AAL. Phillips x-treme vision headlights. 886 reverse lights. Borla exhaust. 20% tint. Hi 6 mod. 285/65/18 Nitto TG on 18" Moto Metal 955's. Airaid intake. Scanguage2.JBA LT's.GC Grill..more to come.
    URD Maf Cal...Thorley headers...y-pipe...intake will help a little...NO2
     
  7. Dec 20, 2013 at 10:08 AM
    #7
    TrdSurgie

    TrdSurgie revised

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    Rear leaf spring tsb 5000 miles, w ac fan 26k miles, windshield creaking 28k miles- not warranty. Bad upper idler pulleys 32k miles- not warranty, Toyota Quality!
    Bang for buck would be a SC. Otherwise don't waste your time.
     
  8. Dec 20, 2013 at 11:11 AM
    #8
    Union guy

    Union guy [OP] Member

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    Levelling kit, trd rims, hid headlights and fogs, westin light bar
    OK. Thanks a bunch fellas. I may do exhaust and CAI just to try and trick myself into believing that it has more power (and sound a bit better) but I will keep my eye out for a good deal on a supercharger.
     
  9. Dec 20, 2013 at 11:29 AM
    #9
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    2011 TRD CAI 1.0, URD maf Calibrator, AFE Pro Dry-S, Spintech Muffler, Magnaflow resonator, 5100's, Toytech 1/4" spacer, Dakar 1.5" AAL, TSB Springs, SPC UCA's, OME 885X, Yellow Wire Mod, VSC/ABS switch mod, Fog Light Mod~~~ Also in the HH. 2006 FJ 4x4 2009 Tacoma AC-OR 2010 4Runner 4x4 SR5
    Depending on what you want to use the truck for, I'd say the best bang for the buck mod is re-gearing. If you want to go fast, super charger.
     
  10. Dec 31, 2013 at 8:23 PM
    #10
    TacoBrah

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    Icon stage 1, Wheelers 3 leaf HD, LR UCA, 265/75/16 BFG KO
    So theres really nothing to increase HP/Torque unless you go forced induction? Even exhaust wont do much? How do you know are there dyno tests posted or something?
     
  11. Dec 31, 2013 at 8:40 PM
    #11
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Red hot glass pack muffler dumped preaxle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front and modified zuk mod coil spring lift for about 2" in rear paired with 5100 also. C channel front bumper.
    There is a member on here that goes by torspd he is one of the most knowledgeable people on the 4.0 I know of. find any post by him admin his Sig there is a link for dynos for n/a and f/I mods. most of the intake and exhaust mods will get u small gains at done above 3000 for n/a but below 3000 go down. with out a blower the power gains are pretty much just power trade offs.
     
  12. Dec 31, 2013 at 8:42 PM
    #12
    TacoBrah

    TacoBrah Stalker

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    Icon stage 1, Wheelers 3 leaf HD, LR UCA, 265/75/16 BFG KO
    Thanks for the response, I will find his sig. So a chip for the computer wouldnt do anything, is that a myth?

    So in a nutshell Toyota gets these motors as good as they can possibly be without f/i?
     
  13. Dec 31, 2013 at 8:55 PM
    #13
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    north Alabama
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    Red hot glass pack muffler dumped preaxle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front and modified zuk mod coil spring lift for about 2" in rear paired with 5100 also. C channel front bumper.
    More or less bully dog has a programmer that has a tune for n/a that give like upto 30 hp allegedly for about $900. But these motors are a compromise for tq/hp, mpg, and reliability. again u can get gains in small gains in hp but mpg and reliability may suffer. if u take long term in account that will most likely not be a good bang for ur buck. that's why my suggestion was weight reduction which will increase felt hp and mpgs
     
  14. Dec 31, 2013 at 9:05 PM
    #14
    TacoBrah

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    Icon stage 1, Wheelers 3 leaf HD, LR UCA, 265/75/16 BFG KO
    Cool, makes sense. I searched for a weight reduction thread, didnt see one. Can you direct me where to look for that?
     
  15. Dec 31, 2013 at 9:16 PM
    #15
    tooter

    tooter play every day

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    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.

    Weight reduction can help considerably. I gained 2 mpg just by switching from large heavy off road tires on steel wheels to lightweight low rolling resistance street tires on light alloy wheels.


    [​IMG]
     
  16. Dec 31, 2013 at 9:45 PM
    #16
    RideFast

    RideFast on the flats.

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    These trucks are already pretty quick and efficient at the same time. Just make your truck look cool.
     
  17. Jan 1, 2014 at 8:41 AM
    #17
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Red hot glass pack muffler dumped preaxle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front and modified zuk mod coil spring lift for about 2" in rear paired with 5100 also. C channel front bumper.
    Tires (stock height and narrower would be lighter and have less drag although ud be giving up traction for wheelin or take off in 1/4s) when if shopping research the weight before u buy and compare for the lighter tires(don't forget to swap if heavy spare too). drop ur rear bumper and cut if tail pipe off right where the bed starts. if u have steel wheels or 20s look for some 16" alloy. they make light weight batteries that can save some poundage. and extras u have bull bar brush guard nerf bars weight in the bed remove it. Skid plate can be replaced with plastic or something light(I would think just removing it would cause enough if drag and highway speed to negate weigh loss. If u have a double cab u can take the storage dividers out from behind the back seat. this would be the cheap/free mods. now u can replace all the pullies on if motor with aluminum or some high density poly. carbon fiber or aluminum hood. fiberglass corner panels. U can Polly drop close to 1000 lbs if u really want too.
     
  18. Jan 1, 2014 at 9:44 AM
    #18
    tooter

    tooter play every day

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    2012, std cab, 5 lug, 2.7, 5 speed
    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.

    I removed the AC compressor, power steering pump, long serpentine belt, and the fixed pulleys. So now I run a short simple belt where the crankshaft only turns the water pump and the alternator.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014
  19. Jan 1, 2014 at 2:13 PM
    #19
    Justus

    Justus fucks not given

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    Toot.... Ur crazy doing that with LA traffic!

    Lmao, I assume ur redoing the ac for summer?
     
  20. Jan 1, 2014 at 5:12 PM
    #20
    tooter

    tooter play every day

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    2012, std cab, 5 lug, 2.7, 5 speed
    Built for maximum low end torque, tooter II.VII intake manifold spacer, LCE long tube header, Injen long tube intake, 2,900 rpm torque peak.

    For 17 years, I drove without AC or PS in my old Taco. I live and work in an unincorporated sparsely populated rural area and am rarely ever in the city, so I don't need either of them. Since performance options for these trucks are so limited, I focused on reducing weight and engine load as well as simple non invasive bolt on intake and exhaust mods. Latest fillup today was 25.3 mpg mixed street and highway driving on 87 octane winter blend gas. :)
     
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