Best Body Lift Kit

35/12.5 on 9.5" wheel

im tubbed and 1.75" cut from the fenders.

 

Looks like you have a nice stance. BTW, is your washer reservoir even in the wheel well? My buddy Todd's '95.5 has it on top of the fender well under the hood. I'm not sure what year they started putting them in the wheel well where the tire could grab them.

Did you do your tubbing with a BFH or did you actually cut and weld (or fiberglass like one guy I spoke with did)?

 

you need to cut. no way your beating the inner fender in that much. i used fiberglass

 

Been done on a 3rd Gen T4R I know of personally, so I don't see why it wouldn't work on a Taco. Just need a big enough hammer. I'll burn that bridge when I come to it though. I won't be on 35s until Interco introduces the tires I want which will be late February at the soonest. With a 2" body lift, and all else being equal with my tire width and Set Back, I should clear them just fine. It'll only be a problem if I want to widen the stance for more side hill stability. I've had it leaning a little over 30* with my current configuration and it's felt pretty planted...at least the truck did. My butt in the seat...well, lets just say I was leaning on the door pretty hard with my elbow, lol.

 

with more backspacing and alignment cams moved to bring lca forward maybe. but with just the pinch weld mod for 32s i couldn't even turn the steering wheel a full turn without tire bringing up.

heres before cutting the fenders. about 3.5-4" of lift

 

True, but you're running a lot less BS with a wider wheel than I am. When I thought I was going to have to run 35x12.50s, I was planning on running them on a 10" wide wheel with 3.25" BS, so I was pretty resigned to having to tub. And yeah, the guy with the 3rd Gen T4R did move his LCAs as far forward as he could and then hammered in the firewall/floorboard to clear the 35s. Not sure what back spacing he was running but I doubt it was more than 3.75".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPrK7xNt9Fw

 

Curious what tire interco is coming out with?

 

They're in the testing phase for a 35x13.50-15 Super Swamper TSL SXII. Told me if the testing went as planned they were introducing it in late February. It's really just a new size than a new tire, but it's exactly the tire I wanted, style, size, and everything.

 

i recomend going 16s and upgrading to tundra brakes. 35s really show how bad the stock ones are.

 

That's not a new tire... been out for years man.

But this is getting way off topic haha

Edit: I miss read your post man, sorry. That's a odd size for this tire... cause these have all been super skinny where the old version was usually really wide

 

threads nearly 9 years old i hope he found a kir by now.

 

Yeah, we're a little off topic, but this thread is pretty ancient. Yeah, it's an odd size, but it fills a void that exists for people like me that want to run a wider tire than a 12.50 but can't realistically clear a 15.50 or a 16. My plan before I contacted Interco about making a 13.50 in a 35 was to just move up to the 35x12.50-15 LTB and mount it on a 10" wide wheel to keep the wide stance and wide tire look, but I would be sacrificing some of my bead security when aired down. I'm kind of a chicken though. I don't like to air down below 14 PSI for fear of popping a bead. My buddy with the 35 LTBs on 8" wheels ran his at 8 PSI w/o bead locks and never popped a bead though, so I might try going down to 10 PSI and see what happens. Hell, I run the things at 20 PSI on the street because at 26 psi I was getting uneven wear in the middle. It'll be interesting to see how the SXIIs fall out. Hopefully they will ride better. I've run a lot of Swampers and Boggers, and I have to say the LTBs are the worst riding Swamper I've owned, but I have no issues with the performance. They are awesome off-road. If you look at the video above, I was the only one that did that in 2WD (although I did have it in 2Lo)...although in fairness, if the 3rd Gen T4R had a rear locker, he probably could have done it too and if the 2nd and 3rd Gen Tacomas had the gray wire mod...well, I dunno if they could have done it or not.

 

I've never had an issue airing down to 8 to 6 psi without beadlocks, but that's me.

Yeah there's always the 36/13/16 tsl, but that's a lot taller then the 35s

Yeah as far as ride on the road goes, boggers are good, tsl's are good, irocks are eh, the old sx's sucked. Any radial swamper is crap(in my opinion) but my favorite by far is the old school buckshot mudders bias ply in the q78 size. That was the best tire I ever ran, hands down

 

Actually I had a set of 31x13.50-15 TSL SXs on a '90 Ranger and a '92 YJ and they rode great. As far as radials, well, they weren't Swampers so I dunno if you'd count them, but the best riding M/T tire I've ever had was a set of Trxus M/Ts on my '96 F250. They ran smooth as silk and lasted for 9 years before they rotted and started to separate. I'd be running them on my 3rd Gen T4R now, but they are kind of pricy and I'm kinda of broke. they are the only radial Interco I've ever had though. Never really considered TSL radials after I heard they wore down just as fast as any other Swamper.

Honestly, I don't realy care how they ride on the street as long as they make up for the fact I'm downgrading from a Lincoln Spool to a True Trac LSD unit in the front to try to quit destroying stuff on the front end. That and regearing to 4.88s will hopefully let me be easier on the throttle. If that works out I might finally get to go on some out of state trips and wheel on some natural rock.

As far as PSi, well, I'm down here in FL. As I mentioned, there's no wheeling down here where you don't have to deal with mud at some point and I've seen mud force a fully inflated tire off the bead. One of our guys runs 35x12.50-17 Thornbirds at 12 psi on the trail and he pops beads a lot. I've had one go flat on me overnight due to having getting mud in the bead when aired down and my other buddy that used to run the 35x12.50-15 LTBs at 8 PSI, recently not only tore a big hole in a sidewall, but also got mud in another bead of his brand new Trepadors (never had a problem with the LTBs, he just couldn't stand how they rode on the street, even though his truck is mainly a trailer queen). I don't know what PSI he was running and I wasn't there, but either he was going at it extra hard, or I'm not all that impressed with the durability over those ridiculously expensive Treps. Gonna reserve judgement for a while though. Coulda just been a fluke.

 

Don't know if you've tried it or not as yet, but for a while there, I was only braking with the front brakes. Even a moderate stop had me threshhold braking. After it was evident that it was wearing my tires down, I finally decided to experiment to see if I could do anything about it. I ended up disconnecting the LSPV arm from the axle entirely and safety wiring it fully up to the bottom of the bed. The brakes are working a LOT better now that the rears are actually helping out.

 

my valve is completely deleted. i have a wilwood manual bpv. deleted the abs too

 

I'm too cheap to replace it with a manual one, haha. If I could find a metric flare plug and a union, I'd delete it and just run full pressure to the rear brakes and see what happens. But then again, I'm not in the frozen North so I don't have to worry about ice. Just wet roads.

 

they lock up pretty easy with full pressure.

 

Well, luckily I'm pretty satisfied with my current solution.

 

~10 psi, going harder than the average wheeler, and the treps are cheaper than the LTB's