Best fishing mods

I like that. What keeps the rods from sliding forward and backward? How do you keep the rods from getting tangled with other rods?

 

Simple aluminum strap/bar. I used what I had on-hand and the width is just right, but I wouldn't mind a bit thicker just to be more rigid.
Bar is available at any hardware store.
Make sure the bolts (that attach the bar to the can holder) don't puncture the jerry can. Obvious, but still had to say it.
Use the shortest bolt you can, but ensure full nut engagement. (CheeryMax rivets would be perfect here!)
The alu strap does allow for shaping. As you can see in the 2nd photo. (Photos suck, my fault, but I had to be somewhere else. I could only take quick shots.)

Looking down from directly above the jerry can. Truck bed rail at top:


Behind the can. Alu bar is bent at an angle to keep can away from bed side. May not be necessary if not over the bed-side cubicle: (can see the bed cubbie door & mount screw)


Easy mount to bed rail. Has held the can in position for about 9,000 miles so far without issue: (The lime green object is really an OD jerry can. ??? Ignore the blk & grn foam at top, it was a cushion for the shovel blade once.))

The bars were painted five years ago, and are now in need of a touch-up...

 

Very cool! You had a great career & experience! I'm drawing a blank on chassis names. Too long ago.
You have described everything else perfectly: fuel tank on back of seat and/or steering yoke; chain drive mostly (we did try belts for a while and a direct (gear) drive once); all expansion chamber exhausts (of course!); experimented with reed valves on rotary ports; would fill the ports with epoxy and then carve out our own shape & size; tried hand throttles, manual clutches, twin engines; and we even created a "pogo-stick starter" from square 2" tubes, spare engine w/ lawn mower type pull starter.
(This pogo-stick's main tube was 4' tall and was the fuel tank too. Then two cross 2" square tubes: one for the bottom foot stand & pivot point, and the other for a t-handle at the top. Engine was mounted on the main tube about 20" off the bottom and had the drive pully still attached. We pull started the pogo-stick, walk up behind the kart (driver in seat), lean the pogo forward and slip a belt over the kart engine pully and then the pogo eng pully, lean rearward (foot stays in place, pogo pivots on it) putting tension on the belt, and engaging the kart engine to start it. Was very popular at the tracks!)
Most of my races were on large flat concrete areas (airport ramps, parade grounds, parking lots, etc.) shaped with truck tires. The track outside of Manila was the first place to have a track built dedicated for kart racing. It was sweet! Even had an overpass!

My folks house in Rockport took Hurricane Harvey on full force. That caused the loss of some of our original karting stuff too. Sucks! But the house remained.

 

cool, thanks for the pics.

 

I don't mind them sliding but you could put a piece of foam (actually the caps come with some) inside the caps to protect the rods. I use rod sleeves on each one to keep them from getting tangled and "69" them to use the space.