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Best option for spraying applying fluid film?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by dfertig84, Aug 20, 2020.

  1. Aug 21, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #21
    dtaco10

    dtaco10 Well-Known Member

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    Dave
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    As of today, I have no experience with Woolwax but I did order some aerosol cans today. My experience is with Fluid Film and Eastwoods Amber rust preventive. In my opinion, Fluid Flim is ok for internal cavities, doors, inner rocker area, and the internal frame cavity, as it doesn't seem to take to road abuse well and washes off easier than Eastwoods. Eastwood Amber rust preventive seems to be more durable once it sets. It doesn't dry hard and stays pliable which is what you want and seems more durable for external surfaces but, it can be used for internal cavities. I think multiple coats are best and I look over the underside of my truck annually and touch up any areas that look suspicious to rust. They both go on real running so they migrate in to seems well.
    My guess is Woolwax is similar to Eastwoods Amber Preventive. Going to give Woolwax a try.
     
  2. Aug 21, 2020 at 4:58 PM
    #22
    Marc70

    Marc70 Well-Known Member

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    What about por 15? Like on the frame, then woolwax the rest? That a good idea?
     
  3. Aug 21, 2020 at 5:24 PM
    #23
    igno1tus

    igno1tus Small member

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    Thanks didn’t know that


    I didn’t want to buy a compressor , spray gun, etc etc I think it was just easier to pay more for the cans . It’s great stuff and has held up really well . I’ve checked Over the entire underside of the truck and it still has coverage , the fluid film has gotten a layer of fine dirt over it. Some places are still pristine like the day I did it and other areas have a dirt film covering the fluid film but it’s still covered and the fluid film Has a consistency of soft butter spread (the only description I can compare it to) this is a year after coverage and I probably will just touch up a few spots that are thin like the high spray areas .

    I WAS going to strip it off and apply the wool wax but I might hold off since this is holding up so well .
     
    Marc70 likes this.
  4. Aug 22, 2020 at 7:59 AM
    #24
    69L46Vert

    69L46Vert Well-Known Member

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    I bought the wool wax pro gun a few years back. Works great. Have done about a dozen trucks and cars with it. Highly recommended. If you can, then take off inner door panels and tailgate panel to get inside really well. Surprising amount of debris gets in the doors and the lower rear of the front fenders. Good to clean it out and dry it well prior to application. It can wash off where there’s a lot of splash but easy to touch up every year. Stays well coated inside the frame year to year and doesn’t need to be completely redone, just a quick going over if done well during the initial coating.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2020
    Marc70 likes this.
  5. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:18 PM
    #25
    hyrule_trd

    hyrule_trd It’s a Secret to Everybody

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    Would you recommend using a rust converter or reformer for surface dust then go over it with Woolwax? My 20 has some surface rust already I need to do something about It and am going to treat the frame with Woolwax.
     
  6. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:20 PM
    #26
    Demfer

    Demfer Well-Known Member

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    its sooooo messy. Went the can route last fall and laid cardboard all over my garage. I'll spend the money to go to a NH coating location...
     
  7. Sep 1, 2020 at 12:24 PM
    #27
    spitdog

    spitdog Well-Known Member

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    I think that’s why people switch to the wool wax, no overspray.
     
    usmc2msu likes this.
  8. Sep 1, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #28
    bob1008

    bob1008 Active Member

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    The answer to that is like trying to get a firm answer from a lawyer.
    Our lab has always taken the position that for the lanolin to embed itself in the pores of the metal, it should be untreated. But they also say that an extra protective barrier to prevent any oxygen or moisture from reaching the metal surface is certainly helpful. So if the rust is just light surface rust most people just apply Woolwax® right over it. Any heavy bubbling rust needs to be brushed off. My own personal opinion, and that of some experienced Undercoaters, is that if the rust is easily accessible, take the extra time to either really brush it clean, or treat it with a converter or something similar. And then apply the undercoating on top of that. It seems to make sense (to me anyway) to treat the existing rust, if it's easy to get to, and then apply the Woolwax® to prevent additional rust from occurring.
     
  9. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #29
    hyrule_trd

    hyrule_trd It’s a Secret to Everybody

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    That makes sense and I was planning on doing something with the surface rust. I just was not sure how Woolwax would work if applied over a rust reformer or converter. I would think it would be kinda like using it over paint. The rust isn’t bad, just surface stuff, nothing flaking or deep. Thanks for the input. I’ll be treating the frame sometime this month. MD likes it’s brine and salt...
     

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