Best rim/tire setup for a 2007 tacoma with a 3inch lift?

I highly recommend what @KJP said. Everyone wants expensive rims...but why? Buy the stock ones FOR CHEAP from a 4runner owner who paid a shit ton for some lame METHheads (i mean methods sorry), paint them black, and throw come sick tires (KO2 BGF A/T or others) on there and be happy as can be...

 

So if I want to move the tire about 1/2" out away from the hub (moving out of the wheel well some) I would need negative offset? Do I understand that right?

For example, you see in my profile pic I have OE steel wheels. I think the offset is -17. What happens if I go with 18 or 01 offset? Im researching a specific wheel with now so that's the numbers im using.

 

Your stock wheels are not -17 offset......

To answer your question though, more negative offset means the wheel will stick out further

 

I was only going by this when I said -17.... https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-specs.30754/

 

Or create files in your media library. Then they are easy to work with later when people ask you the same questions and don’t bother to look at your build thread.

 

Yea its likely +17 mm. Almost ALL toyota rims are + offset..its likely a type-o, like when he got the 7.5" wrong too...

These are -19 MM offset and I know they are WAYYY deeper than stockers lol
Pro Comp 69 Series Vintage Wheel, 15x8 with 5 on 4.5 Bolt Pattern - Flat Black - 7069-5865

 

So what it mean with a website lists the wheel option as a 01 offset?

 

Positive 1 from centerline of the rim. Going to sit a hair in under the well from dead center. In your case If you go from +17 to +1, you are pushing OUT the rim, FROM being super tucked under the well, TO being almost dead center, essentially moving the protrusion of your wheel out 16mm from where you are now. That help?

IE + offset look FLATTER and more tucked under the well. - offset look more like "deep Dish" and stick out more..Kosher?

 

Awesome! Thanks. I cant keep this stuff straight. I definitely don't want a deep dish, but I need to move the wheel out some. My tires, 265/75/R16, are rubbing just slightly on the frame on the rear inside sidewall, and they sit only 1/2", or less, from the stock UCA, which I am planning to upgrade soon. Hoping a different offset in the right direction will fix this. The stock steelys are beginning to rust and pit so I'd like to treat myself to some nice wheels I like instead trying to repair these. Maybe all that will help the OP.

 

YOU got this right on now! Considering you have +17 offset on a 3 inch lift, I have no doubt you rub, ESPECIALLY close to rub the UCAs. Thats why most people will use a wheel spacer in your case. If you dont want to wheel space (if you want to keep your current rims) or you want to trash your rims and get nice new ones, then you need to move from +17 DOWN to 0, or passed it into negative offset.

SO if you wanted to push the wheel out 1 full inch, you need a rim with -8.4 offset in your case-ish. That might be a little much IMO, I think you could do it. Mine are -6mm offset in my pictures I linked before in the thread.

The CONFUSING part is when they start talking back spacing vs offset. Be aware of this. Back spacing is the distance measured from the back (caliper/car side) of the rim to the center line. Offset is the measurement from the CENTERLINE to the direction of mounting point.

I recommend you going with a more neutral 0 offset to a slight negative. REMEMBER too, if you go TOO negative, you cant wheel spacer it to fix anything. If you go too light, say +0 to+10, you could always add a wheel spacer to push it out...

 

Yep! But I'm not a fan of spacers and would rather let the wheel fix the issue and it looks cleaner IMO. Im guessing going from a 16" wheel to a 17" wheel won't cause any problems......

 

Depends. I always say go with stock size or larger, cant go wrong. Some of the earlier models (cant remember which) had a difference in the size of the brake calipers, where one was larger than the other, making one not be able to accept 15 inch rims and only 16 inches.

16->17 will be no issue whatsoever...going 17->16 or 15...yea issues likely LOL

 

Yea I HATE wheel spacers....I have -6mm on a 2.5 inch lift, with 275/70/17 tires AND Icon UCAs....I have no issues..

 

Thanks for providing the clarity folks on offset versus backspacing. I'm used to using backspacing as a measurement - dang it's so much easier to visualize in my tiny brain. The jeep world uses backspacing, and the taco world uses offset. (I'm a jeeper too - no hating! Lol) the lower the backspacing, the further the tire is off the mounting flange.

 

I’ve run both 265s and 285s on a 3” lift. The 285s fill the wheel well better and look more proportional.

265s



285s

 

- 4.5 8- 16 Dick Cepek wheels side byter II just like the TRD Wheels ))

 

size wise go either an 8.5 or 9" wheel if you go with a 17" rim. I ran 17x9 -12 offset with 265 70 r17 general grabbers with 2.5" lift up front and 1" rear for 50,000 miles. You only need to remove the "flairlets" on the front bumper and the stock mud flaps rubbed so I got Rock Blokz flaps. The 9" wheels make a 265 look real nice without looking too stretched. 17x9 -12 puts you just outside fenders but nothing crazy. Basically same stance as my stock wheels with 1.25" spidertrax wheel spacers. If your'e ok with cutting the cab mount go 285 70 r17 tires on a 17x9 -12 wheel.

 

What wheels are those?

 

Non of the factory oe wheels have a negative offset. Most of them are +18.