Best UCA for me

I have the Dirt King ball joint UCAs, would definitely recommend. Good quality/price and lower Mx intervals than a uniball. I’m only on 32s but have seen plenty of pictures of guys rubbing 33s+ on the stock arms, wheel offset plays a part in that too. Also seen the stock arm hit the coil at full droop on 2.5s which is why king/fox recommend aftermarket, never heard of interference under compression though.

 

I'm looking at throwing these on . I'm maxed out on my camber . These will give me extra 2° to play with I'm rolling 315/75/16s I ruv a little bit I have the rc 6" with vertex coils and resis all around. I have my stock uacs . Mind you 231k miles lol time to upgrade finally

 

Im reading not very good feedback about spc and their ball joint. Some people have had good customer experience warranty,but also a good handful of people had bad experience.

 

spc has been spitting out junk the past couple years and id no longer recommend them. any aftermarket uca including the rough country one that should have come with your vertex kit should have built in higher castor. this will allow you to get your camber right with the lca cams.

 

uca is recommended more so for alignment purposes. over 2 or so inches of lift you can no longer get desired castor numbers with just the lca cams. you want as much as possible when these are lifted. but even still the balljoint may not be physically binding with an extended travel coilover at full droop but its certainly at its limitations.

also like him i have no clue what your trying to say about your cv axles and i have my doubts that the uca is cause of your noise. you say fenders arent cut but theres really no way possible to fit 35s without cutting them and doing a major cab mount chop. would help the group if u posted pictures of the truck and the suspension

 

These have worked well with my Elka suspension lift. Alignment is within spec. Still running 267/75/16, but will swap them out for 255/85/16 when the tread wears out.

https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-05-plus.html

Cheers

 

Like others mentioned to get a full idea of what is actually making the noise you either need to cycle the suspension with your shocks off or mount a gopro to your fenders and start driving around. To determine if your suspension is bottoming out, i.e. hitting the bumpstops, you can put a contact indicator on your bumpstop and see if your LCA hits the bumpstop.

For reference I am on 35s, 315/70/17s, and rub my UCA at full lock. I have the icon tubular for reference with 4.75" backspacking 0 offset wheels. I have trimmed my fenders and smashed the pinch welds. I have a CMC done but it rubs the driver CMC at full lock and when mid stuffed.

If you are rubbing your UCA and want new ones make sure that it is not your wheel offset and backspacing that is the issue. Your UCA and LCA travel up and down at the same rate your wheel and shock travels up and down. If it is not rubbing or making a "thud!" noise while you are mall crawling it will be fine when you offroad. UCA do not move independently of your shocks.

Alignment plays a integral role to getting large tires to fit without rubbing. If you are able to achieve "large tire friendly" alignment (max caster with 0 camber 0 toe) then you may no need new UCA. Any normal alignment shop will set your alignment to factory settings which are no aggressive enough to accommodate the larger tires. It is hard to know if you have the necessary alignment without posting an alignment sheet.

Would help a ton too if you post some specs about your tire/wheels and if any modifications have been done in the front end.

 

I got the 6" with rc and it came with longer spindles .

 

Maybe I should just replace with OEM uca's . What's a good source for OEM or like OEM uca's?

 

I got 230k+ miles out of OEM. This a good price minus the mirror cap

 

youl actually notice its a 4" drop bracket and a 2" lift on top of that. you can still benefit from more castor.