Better Steering Solutions

Thank you for clarifying the terminology

 

Pressure off the pump is usually -6(3/8") and the return line is -6 or -8 back to the resivour. In most hydraulic systems the return line is usually one size bigger than the pressure.

The feed/supply often is pretty large to the pump to help alleviate cavitation

 

Since we are discussing steering here. This is the result of big tires with an upgraded steering rack:

 

To add a little here.. I have an 08 Tacoma, 2.25 JD kit, 200 Series Landcruiser Steering rack, a PSC 1200x pump, and trail gear reservoir . I bought the OEM FJ line that fits the LC200 rack and took that to a local hydraulics shop. they made me the -6 AN to compression hose rated for something like 3000 psi. I then just cut the OEM hose and compression fit the new one in place. Simple. No fancy adapter needed. If i have my front locker off i can easily turn my wheels in the rocks.. locker on its still not enough power.. I have no bump steer but I don't have great return to center..

 

Did you redo your outer tie rod pivot? Im curious on how you have no bump steer with a 200 series rack. After getting my setup as close to stock as i could, i still have a bit of bump steer. Can you take a picture of full compression and full bump like i did below?

 

I am not sure... I expected to have some... maybe I do still have some but not enough that I have noticed it on the road, forest road, trails, sand dunes, or rocks..

Maybe the long travel, the fact everything moves forward, the rack position..

I don't have any photos of that stage but I cycled it alot and never saw the tire turn.. I am no suspension expert though.

 

You probably dont have enough to really worry about, but its probably there. I didnt notice mine until i went to a sticky compound tire. I knew i had some, but it wasnt noticable. LT also helps alot, and ive been waiting to shim mine till aftet i get LT.
From what ive seen, the 200 series rack moves the inner tie rod pivot upwards and outwards. The inner clevis you have also moves the pivot outward some more.
If you have the time when its apart next time, take some photos with the tire on. I was surprised when i did mine, i thought i would have more.

Moving the rack forward effects ackerman, you fixed that by doing a LT kit that moves the outer pivots forward. I had messed up ackerman on my first full hydro project, it was pretty scary to drive.

 

I suppose I should post my steering issue here.

I have the Marlin RCLT installed with the LC 200 rack. During the install process of the RCLT the drivers side soft bushing of the steering rack is replaced with a hard bushing supplied by Marlin. Nate posted a video of his steering issue during Ultimate Adventure and after inspecting my rack I have concluded that my steering is beginning to have the same issue. I presented this issue to Marlin for suggestions and asked if the hard bushing replacement would fit the passenger side, so I could have two hard bushings instead of one.

Marlin just responded saying, I am the only one with this issue and that Nate's issue is completely different. This is my understanding of the situation. If someone more experienced has more insight, I'd appreciate the feedback. It is possible that I am wrong.

RCLT with LC 200 Steering Rack, installed as per Marlin Instructions:

1. You have a hard bushing on the driver's side and a soft bushing on the passenger side.
2. The soft bushing will naturally have more play in it than the driver's side.
3. More play on the soft side puts more force on the hard side.
4. After time, enough play on the soft side will cause the bushing to fail, creating more play, putting more force on the hard side.
5. This causes the entire rack to pivot on the hard bushing / driver's side, putting extra force on the bushing sleeve and sub frame.
6. This eventually causes the power steering pump to overwork and the sub frame to fail at the hard bushing.

My power steering pump has already failed. My soft bushing has failed. The entire rack is pivoting on the hard bushing causing the rack to move when turning the wheel. Continued use, without a solution, will cause the hard bushing sleeve and sub frame to fail.

What am I missing or not understanding?


Here is a link to Nate's Steering issue:


Here is a photo of what my soft bushing looks like:

 

Makes sense in my mind as well. Better to have two bushings of similar hardness.

 

I agree. I presented this to Marlin on Nov 4th and followed up every other week, with them saying they would look into it. I was basically just asking if I could get another hard bushing for the passenger side. I sent an email last night and got a response this morning:

Me: Hello, it has been about a month. Do you have any updates or insights as to a solution for the steering rack bushing?

Marlin: We do not and at this time I do not believe there will be a focus on this. You are the only customer that has brought this to our attention and the only customer who has experienced said issue.

 

sounds like a typical marlin response....zero customer support. but yeah two different styles of bushing is never a good idea. wonder if you could just spec out and have a solid bushing made for the other side.

 

Aka “get fucked mate”.

 

Yeah, I thought reaching out to them would be a good first step, since other people are going to have this issue in the future. I was hoping the solution would have been as simple as getting an extra hard bushing, the one used for the driver's side replacement. I am honestly baffled by their response essentially saying it's a non issue.

 

Does anyone happen to know the OD measurement of the LC 200 rack bushings?

 

Just came across this thread and I am looking to go with a different rack and pinion setup for my truck I have a buddy with a 3rd gen and he went with a LC200 rack for his truck and tundra tie rod ends. Wondering if that will work on my truck or would I need to go with a tundra rack instead. I have gusseted spindles and as well as the cam tab gussets from total chaos wanting to go ahead and beef the steering up but not wanting to break the bank at the same time.

 

Are you stock width or LT? I don't think the LC200 rack works with stock width, but someone else may know better. The marlin rack uses it, but it's wider.

 

The problem is the lc200 rack is a different width. The marlin kit has had its geometry changed to accommodate that, now the longer the arms (lt) the less it will be noticeable. For off-road, probably not an issue at all. If you daily drive it though it may be miserable to drive on the street. Haven’t seen anyone say how it drove after doing it on stock width. Just a lot of people claiming it should work perfectly… but the tundra rack is machined to stock width, or if your not worried about having boots on your rack than the jd slide rack works pretty well from what I’ve seen, and it’s cheaper than a tundra rack.

 

Stock width works OK according to some. It messes w the ackerman angle and might handle a little funky on the street. I mocked a 200 rack up w my Dirt King +3.5, and the bump steer was just too much at full droop. The hub would move inboard about 2.5 " during the last few inches of down travel. The more travel you have, the more bump steer comes into effect.
I even tried Tundra aftermarket OTEs w heim joints, which helped a little, but not enough so I abandoned the project.
I have a brand new 200 rack cheap if anyone wants it. Offset bushing comes with it.

 

So the LC200 rack will work for my truck? What if I do tundra OTE and the inner tie rod ends? Curious on that

 

Some people have said they didn't notice any steering issues at all. But thats just hearsay.

There is a guy in NC with a 4th gen 4runner that made it work for stock length and said it has different handling characteristics that he was getting used to, but it wasn't that bad. But, in my opinion the different handling may not be for everyone.

Also to use the Tundra OTEs, you may have to ream your spindles to that size. I did for my 4Runner.