Beware of lubed wheel studs / use of impact gun

never tighten with an impact.. you can snug up, or run in lug nuts/bolts, but always use a torque wrench... 105-120ftlbs, is more than sufficient.. unless you are talking large trucks (dump trucks/semi's.)... worked on all types or cars/trucks.. I would always coat the rotor/drum mount surface with antisieze copper spray, as well as a freshl;y cleaned rotor surface/wheel surface.. thay all got a thin coat.. and clean off excess from the rotor surface. it really helps for the next time you do a brake job.

 

It wasn’t, that’s not a thing.

 

Lubing your studs will not change the amount of torque enough to break them when properly torqued with a torque wrench. So no, just lubing them will not cause them to break. Even with an impact gun, it’s very easy to overtighten them with or without lube. The lube didn’t make a difference.

 

This forum can be such a source of bullshit spreading. I gotta stop reading the stupid threads and just stick to the ones I need.

 

Lubing them alone will not do it. Except, you will not get proper torque values if you torque them lubed which is why it breaks.. Think what you want but go through the calculatons and you will understand. Good luck.

 

Think you need to read the article I linked.

http://www.smartbolts.com/insights/impact-lubricants-torque-readings/

"...they wonder why the threads got damaged or the bolt head broke off"

 

An "article" from a company selling bolts with built in torque indicators.

 

Not that every mechanic is an alcoholic or anything, but just sayin.

You’re kind of a narcissistic prick.

 

Been in the trade for 30 years and I've never seen anyone take out an air ratchet to tighten lug nuts then follow up with hand tightening. In the real world time is money and experience techs know their tools. Put an impact in the hands of a novice and I agree you will have problems.

 

Knowing lubricant affects torque readings is industry standard knowledge. ME 101.
Want one million more links ?

 

So you had a choice of millions of actual articles and chose an advertisement.

 

If you do not understand this principle and dont want to learn but argue its worthless for me to take the time to explain it to you.
Do what you want the wrong way at your own risk. Good luck, you'll need it.

Bye

 

Ok..I ain’t no engineer or mathematician.....so I think I agree with most of what you’re saying, especially about torque sticks true torque being all over the place......and that wheel studs today aren’t “shit” but what I meant is that they’re definitely not made as well as they used to be. Obviously today, all fasteners have to pass manufacturers ‘minimum standards’ (ie. ‘as cheap as possible without causing a future recall’) Some auto makers require clean threads, one drop of a certain weight oil, and then torque to a certain spec, etc. Some require clean, dry assembly......
All i’m saying is that they should be making wheel studs ‘less shitty’ so that they can survive the obvious variables that the engineers ignore in order to save a few bucks and then to sell replacement studs down the road.
Lube will absolutely affect torque, but not enough to break/not break undamaged studs. To be safe, oil or no oil, brand new or 20yr old vehicle....Visually inspect all wheel studs/nuts. Torque them to spec. Drive for a few miles. Re-torque again. Drive around for a few days. Retorque again a final time.

 

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

 

My Father-in-law is a mechanic has been for 35 years.
I told him i wanted to hand tighten my lug nuts and he was like WTF why?
I told him I wanted 92 foot lbs so i could get them off in the middle of the woods.
he said hold my beer I got this and proceeded to go at them with his impact.
I checked most of them with a torque wrench and they were between 90 and 103 foot lbs.
so yes it can be done

 

I work in med device as a development engineer. We coat screws that mate two pieces of titanium with 99.9% pure gold. Why? Reduces friction, plain and simple.

That reduced friction lets the screw rotate more turns for a given torque. More turns means increased pre-load, aka clamping force. By increasing the clamping force, you are applying more force to the threads of the screw/female thread. Our testing shows by simply adding 5 microns of gold coating increases pre-load by 110% (e.g. From 100 to 220). We have IP on this, it's not just Ugga Dugga magic.

Now imagine what penetrating oil or anti seize does to coefficients of friction...

 

OMG somebody finally understands. Praise and go fast on Sunday.
Gents, it does not matter if you have a 1/32 stud or a 5" diameter stud. Unless the spec is for lubed (chances are 99.99% they are not ever on something you will work on) you will over torque by a bunch.
I ride mtn bikes and this is a world of serious torque concern. Just a bit too much torque on a brake caliper or a bar stud could mean life or death, having fun or going over a cliff. Lube versus dry can be up to 50% difference in my world. Here, is case someone needs another link http://www.smartbolts.com/insights/impact-lubricants-torque-readings/

 

I try to post the absolute fact but I am human. I seldom post my opinion lol.

 

When working on Jet Engines many fasteners called for different lubricants but those engines see extremes that most regular items will not.

 

Another engineer here weighing in. When you are measuring torque you are measuring sliding friction not clamping force or even the actual stress on the bolt. Lubing the threads will greatly reduce the friction meaning that you are putting extreme forces through the stud well in excess of the normal operating forces. This not only will damage the stud but can also damage your rim as well by deforming the nut seat.