1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

beware the block heater/motor swap ideas

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by WhyteRaevin, Jul 10, 2010.

  1. Jul 10, 2010 at 11:44 AM
    #1
    WhyteRaevin

    WhyteRaevin [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Member:
    #27009
    Messages:
    17
    Gender:
    Male
    Saskatchewan
    Vehicle:
    TRD XtraCab Step Side
    So I recently had some terrible luck.
    I was cruising down the highway when I start to hear a strange quiet ticking noise under my feet. I shut off the radio to listen and my check engine light comes on. I start pulling over and before I make it to the shoulder the tach drops to 0 and the engine quits. I pull over, jump out of the truck and pop the hood to a billowing cloud of white smoke in my face. My temperature gauge didn't tell me it was running hot, hmmm. I get the truck towed back home to my local mechanic and my buddy tells me the bolt holding my block heater in broke while I was cruising down the highway. When the block heater comes out all the coolant in the motor is pushed out the hole in about 5 to 10 seconds. He also tells me that the temp gauge will only read a liquid, so when all the liquid coolant comes out of the motor it will show it is WAY COOLER than it actually is while your motor cooks. It won't hold coolant because the heads are warped. Also there is a dirty misfire in at least one of the cylinders.

    My engine was overheated and cooked before I could even stop, less than 20 seconds.

    So now I need to decide if I want to rebuild the top end and hope there was no other damage.
    Or
    Get a motor from salvage with a questionable past.
    Or
    Put in something brand spanking new with all the trimmings.

    I want to stick with a 3.4 v6 like the truck came with. I need some input on what my best options are and where I can get a high-po 3.4 v6
     
  2. Jul 10, 2010 at 11:52 AM
    #2
    Cars0n`

    Cars0n` Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2008
    Member:
    #9091
    Messages:
    1,426
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Carson
    Edmonton AB
    Vehicle:
    07 2wd access cab base.
    Kenwood DDX-512 Deck, Boston Acoustics G5 Sub in Ported Bassworx Box, Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X10D Amp, Sirius Satellite Radio, Magellan GPS, DDM 55w bi-xenon headlights, 2 HID Hella 500ff's mounted behind grill, 4 pc ebay Billet grill, Fog Lights (my truck didnt have them stock), Pioneer Speakers 6x9's(front) 6.5's(rear) AFE Cold Air Intake, Hose Clamp Mod, Tailgate Strengthen Mod, Removed Gay Mud Flaps, De-Badged, BHLM, 245/45/20 on velocity wheels. VW865a, Extra D Rings In Box, OEM Cruise Added Optima Red Top Battery
    why not go with somethin bigger?

    4L v6 maybe? or a small v8?
     
  3. Jul 10, 2010 at 11:57 AM
    #3
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2009
    Member:
    #19933
    Messages:
    4,978
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    07 DCLB 4x4 Sport S/C
    Junk
    x2
     
  4. Jul 10, 2010 at 12:11 PM
    #4
    tinker_troy

    tinker_troy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Member:
    #2718
    Messages:
    9,128
    Gender:
    Male
    WA
    before you go swapping engines I would put a soft plug back in the hole, fill her up with coolant and see how it goes. I would think that there is a good possibility that it's fine. My old chevy would overheat and boil a few times during the summer and I would pull over, let it cool down, start it back up and it was fine. I know the 3.4 is prone to blowing head gaskets so maybe that is all you would end up needing. No need to replace the whole engine if it's not needed.
     
  5. Jul 10, 2010 at 12:12 PM
    #5
    WhyteRaevin

    WhyteRaevin [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2009
    Member:
    #27009
    Messages:
    17
    Gender:
    Male
    Saskatchewan
    Vehicle:
    TRD XtraCab Step Side
    I want a 3.4 5VZ-FE v6 so I don't have to change anything engine control related.

    I took it to my mechanic and they went through it. It won't hold coolant because the heads are warped. Also there is a dirty misfire in at least one of the cylinders.
     
  6. Jul 10, 2010 at 1:54 PM
    #6
    biggdog747

    biggdog747 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2010
    Member:
    #32729
    Messages:
    57
    Gender:
    Male
    MI
    Vehicle:
    taco
    No the 3.0l pre 1995 was prone to blowing head gaskets
     
  7. Jul 10, 2010 at 2:13 PM
    #7
    Drewboto

    Drewboto Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2010
    Member:
    #33341
    Messages:
    420
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Drew
    Missouri
    Vehicle:
    Base model ಠ_ಠ
    17" Mustang wheels, Eclipse AVN 5435, Deck plate mod, vertical Maglite mount, K&N high-flow air filter, Delta gullwing box, amp, sub, 30 percent tint, floor lighting, tilt activated glove box lighting, lighting behind seat, engine bay lighting, SR5 grill surround, power windows, outside temp display
    I would try rebuild it. Check the lower block for cracks and warping.
     
  8. Jul 10, 2010 at 3:30 PM
    #8
    tinker_troy

    tinker_troy Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Member:
    #2718
    Messages:
    9,128
    Gender:
    Male
    WA
    well damit all then

    opps, my bad
     
  9. Jul 10, 2010 at 4:21 PM
    #9
    crazyasu45

    crazyasu45 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2009
    Member:
    #17241
    Messages:
    707
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Canada
    Vehicle:
    2013 MGM DCLB 4X4 TRD SPORT
    3" SUSPENSION LIFT

    x2 the V6 3.4L is a rock solid engine :D
     
To Top