Manfred's #thicc boi aka 'White Rhino'

In response to your edit, you definitely had them on backwards. You're supposed to put that bolt in with the leafs off the truck. You can see it here on the FSM diagram as well. Should be fine now though.

 

And I have the torque spec guide myself but how in the hell was I supposed to wiggle that bolt in between the hanger AND put the bushing in haha

 

Haha that’s why I said you have to do it with the leafs off the truck. Otherwise it’s impossible

 

Oh sweet Moses I think I get it now.
Never go full retard, but I doubt I'll be taking them off again. Need to add an axle shim to the jam which means some sort of fucker with my leaf pack lol

 

I was wondering what you weren’t getting.

 

Took about 8 hours to tackle my doors. Still left is my roof and floor. Only went through about half of my noico sound deadener for the doors.

Some hightlights from the day.

 

Don't forget to do behind rear seats too, helps to hide all that squeaking

 

So I ordered 2x 36 sq ft of the sound deadener, and don't even think I went through half of it for all four doors. I plan on doing floors and roof as well as behind the seats. This can is going to sound so nice by the end haha

 

Well as I have been chatting with @tacoma16 for the last few days trying to figure out the source of my technical issues, I might as well post the cause of it all.

Lessons learned: crawl through puddles. do not hulk smash that shit.
Problems: twice it had no response to the key turning aka no crank possible starter? battery is a 12.6 after 40 min of no charging so i am weighing out the alternator and battery malfunctioning. Starter could have got some water on it. As well i have a small high pitch whine / whistle when accelerating which i believe is one of my idler pullies.

 

Welcome to the puddle gang!
me and @Thyces are members there, now you too!


Few things, apply dielectric grease inside of all your electrical connectors that go under water or get wet.
Check if your t-case actuator has breathers - they usually don't and water is going-to corrode it and you will be in the club "I can't get out of my 4x4"
Take a look at your cabin filter, Peter and I looked at his and water can drip slowly on ECU there if you cross water wrong or get stuck with water over your hood.
Water also can be sucked into intake super easy, so you need a snorkel.

I would get compressed air and blow the heck into starter to blow all the moisture away.

 

thank God for you haha. I feel like one of two options happened:
a) it was snuffed out due to lack of air
b) a tiny bit of moisture hit the MAF and just shut the engine down as a fail safe

so far i have:

• cleaned out the KN filter (it was 200km into its 1 609 350km lifespan lol)
• Cleaned out the intake from the filter out
• attempted on washing / lubricating the pullies.
• tomorrow i will be taking apart the intake completely and wiping it down.
  
• Need to find out what a T Case actuator is lol
• PRICE OUT A DAMN SNORKEL. Any recommendations? I was looking at an Airflow Snorkel with Ram filter on top like peters

Do i need to worry about cleaning my MAF?

 

I would say you don't, it should not be the issue. But it is extremely sensitive part and if you take it apart wrong, you are in for a fun... I learned it hard way with my red truck.

Safari snorkel is $$$ but is a straightforward install, or you can use PVC pipes - that will look dope

Can you check if ECU is throwing any codes? Plug OBDII reader.

Here is info about actuator, it's basically there to replace locking hubs, I even have it on my red truck from 1993:
https://www.1aauto.com/4wd-axle-actuator-housing/c/264

If you ever blow it, you can source FJ t-Case and have manual shifters, a friend of mine done it and it worked beautifully.

You can start with pulling sparks and checking if they are dry.

 

Then i will pass on the MAF taking a part.
Heres some of the codes i got 20 min after driving out of the puddle. The first two came up and illuminated the check engine light and slip indicator on my dash
My friend had a bluetooth reader and he only reset the codes once. They have not come on since which leads me to believe it was a sensor issue.



spark plugs will probably be dry by now. lol but will double check the gauge and slap on some more anti sieze.
Did a quick gander under for my t case actuator and could not see it lol. im bad and should feel bad

 

It's not a big deal now, but in the winter if moisture freezes inside of actuator , it rarely happens, but I've seen 10+ threads here with those problems.

Check all fuses, maybe there is a bad contact or relay gone bad.

Air - Spark - Fuel - Electrical Gremlins -> that's how I work now when have problem.

 

got a full day of work ahead of me tomorrow. thank God im on vacation.

 

Sounds like alternator. I'd get that battery tested first. The whine could be a pulley or the alternator pulley. Welcome to the club.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-taco-boat-dont-float.498615/

 

Clean the maf, check the air filter for moisture, change the oil an check for chocolate milk. If water got into the engine, you'll have chocolate milk.

 

Got some homework for tonight lol. Good thing I can mull all this info over while I work on my sound deadener.

No chocolate milk Oil but should probably do another oil change just to be safe
Filter was cleaned, dried and re-oiled yesterday
maf sensor is the only thing (minus wiping down the intake) that I can think of

 

I remove and clean my maf every oil change. It's not that sensitive. Just be careful with it and only use maf cleaner. There's a couple threads about it in the forums. New pulleys will run about $100. They're easy to remove. Only replace if you have play in the bearing or a raspy noise when you roll them. We'll worth it. Starter can be rebuilt for about $30 for the kit and about 2-3 hours for your first time.

 

Have you rebuilt the starter and done the bearings before.

May come down to visit