BFGKO2's (C or E rated) thoughts? differences?

I recently put E rated KO2's on my TRD Pro.
Any thoughts on whats most used?

 

E rated are the most common KO2s. So I would guess they they are the most common used.
I have the C rated and they are a little more stiff than the C rated Ridge Grapplers I had on before.

 

If you're not towing, go c rated. If you're going to tow, get e-rated. It's that simple. E-rated can handle the work a 1-ton will put it through. You have a tacoma. E will work, might be rougher but certainly heavier.

If you have the choice and don't need it, go c. If you're going to work the hell out of your taco or tow a mid-range load for thousands of miles, go e.

The difference is the tradeoff in comfort and stability with p-rated being the cushiest, c being the all purpose and e being "you had better beat the hell out of it to be rewarded"

Just don't lie to yourself.

(I've run them all; even the odd-ball, d-rated duratrac. Towed an xj a thousand miles on them. Each tire has its place but unless you're on that level, there's no need to play the game on hard mode, its just more expensive and, well, harder.)

 

And this is how you complete a thread.
Exactly what he said
If you have the choice and don't need it, go c.
Since you already have the tires, no biggie

 

C all the way for a daily driver. I've had both

 

Our trucks only require a C rated tire. The side walls of C rated tires are rated higher than the Tacoma tow capacity, so E rated is basically pointless for towing.

if you off road often and you air down over sharp jagged terrain, then an E rated tire should be considered. Otherwise a C rated is more than plenty.

 

Thank you, sir!

Truth on e-rated being well over the ability, but like I said, if you're towing significant weight (4500+) a significant distance (long enough to require at least a gas and piss-break), then you'll notice the stiffer sidewall of an e-rated. Wheeling... eh, not so sure, c-rated gives a nice squish on a light vehicle like a taco. 12psi on e-rated MTRs on my tj looked like about 20 on a normal truck. Sharp rocks or edges, yeah, e if paranoid but it's in no way critical.

 

E rated will take more abuse and is less likely to suffer a puncture. These will hit your gas mileage as a penalty.

C rated will be more comfortable, will give better mileage and is likely the correct choice unless you will subject the tires to heavy off road abuse.

I plugged a few holes in the AT2s I ran, but while I have pulled a screw out of the X3s, it did not go through.

 

The Tacoma only requires a P rated. Max load with max trailer is still well within the P rating. Hell, my Tundra with 4K more capacity still only requires a P rated tire.
Only reason to ever go E is desert sharp rocks or thorns.