Big 3 kit (1GR-FE/4.0L V6) - Get ready for Spring maintenance!

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KITS NOT CURRENTLY FOR SALE OR IN PRODUCTION.

All the info you need to DIY is in THIS THREAD

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Hello friends.

I make ready to install Big 3 kits like the one I prototyped in THIS THREAD. These kits maintain the factory wiring path and do not cut out the alternator protection fuse, like other kits offered on TW and elsewhere in the past.

Wire size comparisons, each pair showing factory vs this kit:


Marine heat shrink on every terminal:


Hand fitted alternator terminals:


Highest quality lugs and stud boots:


I have run the installation long enough to be confident that it is a good long term solution and have personally seen the benefit of it in more ways than one. Aside from increased conductor size (those of you with experience running monster audio or a ton of lighting understand the importance of that), the factory wiring harness uses stamped/crimped terminals which are open at the ends, allowing corrosion to creep waaaaay up into the wiring.

This kit is also highly modular, and will make it much simpler to drop in later upgrades or modifications to your truck.

In fact, this kit saved my bacon when my battery blew a cell in the middle of nowhere and would have ruined a factory harness.

I do not know if the same kit sized for a 1GR-FE will fit other plants. If you want to be a guinea pig for a different engine, I would be willing to give a discount in exchange for fitment testing, but only if you're actually going to install the thing in a reasonable timeframe!

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KITS NOT CURRENTLY FOR SALE OR IN PRODUCTION.

All the info you need to DIY is in THIS THREAD

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A: This kit includes:

• 1/0 AWG runs for the starter and alternator
• 4 AWG fusebox to battery lead and engine compartment body ground
• military-style battery terminals a.k.a. ordnance terminals
• high quality battery terminal boots
• stud boots for the alternator and starter ends (may be red/black, may be all black - no choice, sorry!)

All materials are made in the USA and sourced from an American-owned supplier. Also, since my favorite beer is made here in Vermont, you can be sure all of your money stays here.

IMPORTANT NOTE: These kits are sized for the 1GR-FE engine in Toyota Tacomas. They may or may not fit other plants or platforms. Each bent lug (alternator -> fusebox run) is hand fitted to a genuine Tacoma fusebox, but minor fitting may be required. A cheap chainsaw file is recommended if you don't have a small round file.

Q: What kind of warranty or guarantees are attached to the purchase?
A: You are 100% responsible for the installation of this kit on your vehicle and any issues that may arise from its use on your vehicle. You are responsible for knowing if this kit is suitable for your application.

Upon receipt, CHECK YOUR KIT CAREFULLY. If you receive a kit that is missing components, or has construction/manufacturing flaws, such as nicked insulation, incorrect lengths, or other non-cosmetic problems affecting the mechanical or electrical performance of any component, you must notify me within 30 days of receipt and before attempting installation. The bent lugs may have tool marks on them - that's because they have to be custom bent, since standard 90 degree lugs won't fit.

If it turns out I messed something up, I will be glad to replace at my expense any faulty components, shipped USPS flat rate with tracking to the same address as the original order.

Q: Is this kit compatible with...?
A: There are so many different modifications, aftermarket parts, and possible configurations that I can't possibly know the answers to these specific questions. That being said, if you have other electrical modifications or upgrades on your truck and you're the one who put them there, you should be able to get an understanding of whether this kit is directly compatible or if changes might need to be made to your setup or to the kit prior to installation.

With this kit as a foundation, most of the common major electrical modifications that I've seen people do to these trucks (aux panels, dual batteries, underhood lights, headlight harness upgrade) are either plug-and-play or require only minor changes. If you START with this kit, you will have smooth sailing from the get-go and the ability to drop in other mods extremely cleanly right on top.

Q: What kind of wire are you using?
A: US made, high strand count (flexible!) SAE J1127 compliant solid copper wire, also known as "welding cable". Paper jacketed conductors, EPDM insulation.

Q: What kind of lugs are you using?
A: US made, tinned solid copper lugs installed with a correctly-sized hydraulic die crimper. This is how things are done in jet aircraft and industrial vehicles. Soldered lugs lose flexibility at the wire/lug interface, and over time this can lead to cracking and separation under vibration. Properly crimped lugs are stronger mechanically and also create an air-tight seal around the exposed cable end.

To further increase the longevity and corrosion resistance of the wiring, all ends are heat-shrunk with US made double-wall, adhesive lined, corrosion-resistant marine heat shrink.

Q: What size are the lugs? Will they fit my billet terminals?
A: All wiring has a 3/8" opening on one end to fit the included military terminals (or in the case of the alternator run, the fusebox stud). The other ends have openings sized to fit the alternator and starter studs (5/16"), or fender ground and fusebox interior screw (1/4").

There are a lot of different types of aftermarket terminals out there, and there's no way I can guarantee fitment with all of them, especially if you have other wiring mods already. The first step would be to measure the through-bolts or studs on your custom terminals to make sure they are 3/8" or smaller, and then take a look at the photos in this post for an idea of how the lugs are shaped and how they might stack up on your terminals.

Q: What kind of battery terminals are you using?
A: US made, pure lead military style a.k.a. ordnance terminals.

They will accommodate any 3/8" ring lugs, so if you're running dual batteries or other electrical mods such as an aux panel or the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade, it should just be a matter of putting new ends on your existing runs if they aren't 3/8" already. If you do this mod first and later order a headlight harness, you can simply ask for a 3/8" end to be put on it from the manufacturer and it will drop right on to this kit.

Q: What do I need for this project that is NOT included in the kit?
A: Zip ties, basic hand tools (ratchet/sockets, maybe a screwdriver, something to trim zip ties, a small round file), maybe some spray paint if you want to get fancy and paint the wire loom brackets while you have them out of the truck. You may also want to use a little dielectric grease under the alternator and starter connection boots.

Q: What kind of labor is involved with installation?
A: See my thread here for an idea. It's not complicated, and I did it without even jacking the truck up although it would have been much easier if I did. You'll probably get pretty dirty, and some of the stuff can be pretty tricky to figure out how to reach, but it's all doable through the driver's side front wheel well and the engine bay.

Q: What colors are available?
A: Red for positive, black for negative. Want something special? Let me know. Mesh wire loom comes in all kinds of colors, and I can add it for a small additional charge.

 

stumbled upon your OP the other day thinking "yeah, someday soon i need to start my electrical system"

and now this.

 

My thoughts exactly. I saw his post and was immediately hoping he was making them to sell!

I like the idea of this to help beef things up and prep for adding more accessories. Specifically I want to add an accessory fuse/relay box and I assume this kit would make that expansion easier.

I’m interested pending price and details.

Also, regarding materials and pricing. You may wish to check out welding cable as your wiring. It’s affordable, durable and very flexible. It’s now my go to anytime I need 4ga or larger wiring for a project. I think it may only come in black but IMO I prefer that anyway.

 

It ought to - the military terminals can take as many lugs as you want to put on.

I used and will be using the best welding cable I can get my hands on. US made high strand copper with oil and solvent resistant insulation. The military/ordnance battery terminals are also US made, and the lugs are all tinned solid copper.

 

Interested

 

Im interested too

 

Interested for sure

 

I am interested as well. It is one of those things I said I would do at one point along with a beefier alternator.

 

I assume this kit would be compatible with SDHQ billet terminals?



Does it use Oxygen Free Copper wires?

If so...

 

Nice call I have the SDHQ ones as well. Although I cant run the ground as it hits my hood. =(

 

You have a taller than normal battery or something?

 

Maybe??? I need to try it with my current battery but when I had a 31M AGM it was to close for comfort.

 

Ah yeah that's definitely not a standard battery.

Should be either a 24F or 27F.

 

Indeed. I haven't had a regular battery in the truck in years. I am running a 35 AGM now which makes me think it may fit now.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't be.

No, it does not. (I REALLY don't want to light up the OFC debate, but I do feel compelled to note that almost all consumer products advertised as OFC actually use C11000 as opposed to actual C10200 or C10100).

 

Just wondering what type of ends/lugs the cables will have and if the ring holes wil be big/small enough.

You seem to know more about that than I do, so long as it's not copper coated aluminum or other junk I'm cool.

Is it super flexible fine strand or thicker less bendable strands?

What kind of shielding? Personally I prefer the more grabby softer rubberized stuff to the harder slicker plasticized sheathing.

 

Tinned solid copper lugs, hydraulic die crimped onto tinned cable ends (not beaten on with a hammer). This is how things are done in the guts of aircraft, I figure it ought to be OK for our trucks.

3/8" openings on everything except for a single 5/16" opening to fit neatly in the guts of the fusebox. If you measure out the size of the bolts on your billet terminals, as long as they are 3/8" or smaller, these lugs should fit.

Most definitely not CCA. Solid copper, high strand count (very flexible) welding cable. It is NOT the cheap raincoat-feeling PVC jacketed stuff you're talking about - I believe the trade name for the insulation used is Flexaprene, which is the more rubber-like stuff, and has superior chemical and mechanical properties for this application.

 

Aight I'm on board.

Don't need the battery terminals though as (aforementioned) SDHQ terminals.

I heard somewhere on here the "Big 3" for the Tacoma is actually the "Big 5" can you shed some light on that?

 

I haven't read that before, but I can guess that they're referring to the two starter wires, the alternator positive, the fusebox positive, and the body ground (2+1+1+1 = 5). If you check out the pic in this post you'll see that there are 5 wires in this Big 3 upgrade. (The Big 3 being Battery/Starter/Alternator).

 

That may be it. Looks good to me.

Alright, so how much and when?