BigMike’s Big Journey: New 2016 Tacoma

Subd for mar rack as a possible future mod. Also a good looking and bad ass turd gen

 

This thing is gnarly. I’m not much of a rock crawler or 3rd gen fan but this truck has me wanting it bad!

 

In for MarRack updates.

 

And price$? If there's an idea of what they'll run.

 

Awesome build! I've been following it for a while and it is truly one of a kind and a pioneer truck for us 3rd gen taco's. However, why do all that work with an IFS? I get it, IFS is a challenge sometimes and can fun but why go to that extreme? I'm not sure what you spent on the front suspension (I'm sure you've got some homie hook-ups) but for us, that's probably close to 7 grand to make our front end similar to yours. For that price we can get a bullet proof solid axle that will give us way more articlation than any IFS. So, given bang for the buck, I'm not seeing the value in your setup.

Is there an advantage to your setup over a solid axle rig? I don't mean to bash and I hope it doesn't come off as negative. Just wanting to understand your angle.

 

I think because he can. Plus it gives them a reason to make the mar rack and help he rest of us out

 

True, anything can be done to a rig with the right experience and money. But my question was really more geared to be about customers that he is building these parts for. What's his angle to a customer to why they should spend 7k on this type of setup that (in my opinion) is still sub par to a less expensive solid axle.

Between the long travel kit ~ 3,000
Front coilovers ~ 2,000
RCV ~ 2,500
Mar-Rack ~guessing 500?

To me the cost as a customer would make me wanna go directly to a solid axle and have more suspension travel, no worries about cv boots tearing, and for the equal amount of money a much stronger setup.

 

Because not everyone only does rock crawling. For me I am long travel and do a lot of high speed desert type of off road inn where ifs out performs a solid axle any day of the week. Yes if it was a dedicated crawler, then sas is the way to go, but that's not the best option for everyone. Some of the products like the mar rack will help people like me quit having to get an alignment every few trips

 

Good solid front axles are expensive. Plus no tacoma ABS and traction control sensors. Lots of fabrication for steering and links, It looks like there are a ton of clearance issues. The IFS upgrades are pretty much bolt on. I think it would cost a lot more to do a good SAS.

 

I love this build.

Now that you have addressed the steering and the CV's I'm assuming that moves the weak link to the diff, and with an ARB would move it from the spider gears to the R&P. I imagine you would start to find the limits of the 8" with a heavy truck, 40s, and a v6. If it holds up that's awesome, but do you have any plans, and would you admit them if you do, to fit a tundra diff, or larger diff in the front end? Regardless, sounds like the ultimate IFS build without going totally custom with a center mount, custom LT, new frame rails, etc. Also, would you tell us if the MarRack is based on a tundra rack or anything OEM, or totally custom? If custom, and even if not, would there be any chance there could be one made for a 1st gen, even as a one off? Just brainstorming ideas. Love the build, it's going to be agonizing waiting for all the details.

 

IN for Mar Rack updates. Need to Fix my steering.

 

Three days of solid reading, only what Mike posted, and I'm finally caught up. This may be the greatest build to date. So much innovation.

 

Another taco from bham area. I’m in Pelham. Look at my previous post and his response to answer most question.

 

Sweet. Yea my 1st gen doesn't get driven anymore, have a crawler now. One day it will get SAS'd, but other options haven't left my mind either like swapping in a tundra diff, solo LT, and something for the steering which is why I'm so intrigued with this build and was hoping BigMike may offer a little more insight about those things.

 

I'll respond to the awesome questions above hopefully later today.

For now I figured I'd leave this here

Demonstration video of my 2016 Tacoma TRD Sport with a Marlin Crawler Triple Ultimate 28:1 8-speed transfer case setup totaling 56 different speeds (48-forward, 8-reverse) and a 580:1 final drive Crawl Ratio.

Benefits of the Marlin Crawler TacoBox:

• Increased Traction
• Increased Torque
• Increased Control
• Increased Reaction Time
• Less Bouncing
• Less Breakage
• Less Trail Abuse
• Less Risk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYWyJoV2o6U

 

I posted a FAQ to another thread and I'd like to include it here in case it can help answer some questions

How can a truck go so slow without dragging its brakes, and how can it possibly climb a rock taller than itself without any throttle or even a driver?
It has a Marlin Crawler TacoBox.

What is a Marlin Crawler TacoBox?
A Marlin Crawler TacoBox is our dual case setup for automatic or manual transmission 2.7-liter, 3.4-liter, 3.5-liter, 4.0-liter, and 4.7-liter Toyota 4WD drivetrains for T100, Tacoma, 4Runner, Tundra, FJ Cruiser, Sequoia, and GX470.

Side note: The name TacoBox is derived from "Tacoma" plus "Crawl Box" (our nickname for our classic 1979-1995 dual case setup). Its name was inspired by the Tacoma because it was first used in a Tacoma, July of 2000, when Marlin Crawler became the first to Dual Case a Tacoma. It fits many non-Tacoma drivetrains (listed above) and we've been installing Dual Case setups into 1995 and newer Toyota trucks ever since!

Required modifications
The TacoBox measures approx. 8.5" in length and is inserted between your existing transmission and transfer case. Because the transfer case is moved reward 8.5-inches, the front drive line is lengthened 8.5" and rear shortened 8.5". On applications with a two piece rear drive shaft, only the front piece of the rear two-piece drive shaft is shortened and the factory carrier bearing remains in it's original position. To operate the TacoBox, an additional shift lever is installed into the interior. This is the only aspect which is not "bolt-in" as some custom work is required along with a new boot from your local upholstery shop. Shifters can be positioned within about a half foot radius to the TacoBox to decide to sacrifice a cup holder, or coin tray slot, or plastic bezel, and so on. Here is a gallery of examples on various vehicles https://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/transfercase/marlin-crawler-interior-shifter-picture-archive

What about crossmember modifications?
Cross-member modification is only required for trucks with a solid / live front axle. The majority of TacoBox-compatible trucks do not need to worry about this. Even on 100% stock trucks, the TacoBox may be installed without any crossmember mods and while using the original factory crossmember without any issues. (In fact this is how I ran my first TacoBox setup and ran Moab once, Rubicon twice.) The TacoBox does, however, have a provision for an extra crossmember mount which the installer may chose to utilize which will extend the life of both the original crossmember mount and both engine mounts. It will also provide more drivetrain rigidity for improved power transfer both under drive and coast conditions.

Does it alter the way the vehicle operates, computer interference, gas mileage, daily driveable?
When the TacoBox is not needed, it is shifted into HIGH which is a 1:1 ratio. Torque enters and exits at the same rate. Other than an extra 45 pounds, the truck has no clue the TacoBox exists. You can daily drive the truck both city and highway like normal. Fuel mileage is unaffected (<1%). You can shift your stock t/case into LOW and be just like any other truck on the trail, having the same final drive ratio as factory. Toyota's "Crawl Control" gimmick will function like normal. ABS functions like normal. Brakes function like normal. Throttle response functions like normal. And so on.

But, if you encounter an obstacle on the trail that requires more control, more traction, more finesse, and more safety, you simply shift the TacoBox into LOW and your off-road capability become a reality at the flip of a lever.

Does anyone need to be as slow as my truck in the above video?
No, this amount of reduction is too slow and is not practical for everyday trail use. We believe the "Ultimate" Rock Crawling ratio for automatics is around 180:1 (stock is 36:1) and for manuals is around 250:1 (stock is 44:1). These ratios are achievable with the Dual Ultimate TacoBox (equipped with our 4.70:1 gear set) which is also known as a "TacoBox Supreme". Therefore, my Tacoma in 1st gear is more than twice as slow as anyone would ever need to be for even the most demanding off-road scenarios.

If it's unnecessary, then why do I have Triples?
Like Marlin, I installed a third reduction unit for a number of good reasons applicable to me:
1) I can demonstrate all available Marlin Crawler product ratios including the factory gear-drive ratio used in right-hand front axle setups,
2) I can fully demonstrate the raw power of what it means to truly "Rock Crawl" as originally intended by Marlin when he invented the hobby/sport of Rock Crawling 24 years ago (see our History page for details: https://www.marlincrawler.com/about), and
3) Beings I'm Marlin's offspring, it's the law of the universe that I run triples in all my trucks

What is the speed of BigMike's Tacoma as shown idling in 1st gear?
Approximately 0.11 MPH or 9.1 HPM (That's Hours per Mile).

Cost?
To more than double the off road capability of your Tacoma, taking your stock 36:1 automatic Tacoma to a 82:1 ratio (or 100:1 for a stock 3rd gen manual Taco or similar), it is around $1,800 for our standard 2.28:1 TacoBox Dual Case Setup depending on application.
To more than quadruple the off road capability of your Tacoma, taking your stock 36:1 automatic Tacoma to a 170:1 ratio (or 208:1 for a stock 3rd gen manual Taco or similar), it is around $2,200 for our 4.70:1 TacoBox Supreme / Ultimate Dual Case Setup depending on application.
Additional costs are having your local drive line shop modify and re-balance your drivelines (approx $200-$250), a custom shifter boot made (optional), soder to lengthen t/case shift solenoid wires (if applicable), and some gear oil. Done.

Which route do most customers go with?
Ninety-nine percent of our TacoBox customers choose the TacoBox Supreme. The 2.28:1 TacoBox is very rarely requested and we don't even list it on our website. The reasoning is as follows: The standard TacoBox ratio of 2.28:1 is, practically speaking, nearly identical to your 1995+ truck's stock t/case gearing of 2.57:1. Putting either case into low range would yield no net difference in use on the trail. Therefore, in order to "Crawl", you'd have to have both cases shifted into low range at all times, and that would be it, your maximum reduction of 5.86:1 (compound low at 2.28 * 2.57).

On the other hand, with the 4.70:1 ratio of our TacoBox Supreme, you have three very distinct t/case ratios: 2.57:1 (TacoBox in HIGH + T/Case in LOW), 4.70:1 (TacoBox in LOW + T/Case in HIGH), and 12.08:1 (TacoBox in LOW + T/Case in LOW, aka the "Ultimate"). Moreover, shifting only just the TacoBox into low range, you're nearly already twice as slow as stock with only the use of one shift lever. Then when you approach an obstacle that demands maximum traction and control, you still have the combination of engaging stock t/case low range at any time for a super-low compound t/case ratio. For a price difference of only ~$400, it is easy to see why if you're going to go Duals then why not go for the Ultimate setup.

How did I come up with more than 6,000 lb-ft of torque from an idle?
While I have not worked out hand calculations yet, I am certain the amount of torque (moment of inertia) present in a 45-50 lb flywheel/clutch assembly rotating at 600 RPM (my idle speed) is more than 10 lb-ft of force. I bet it's closer to 25, especially when you include the ECU metering air and fuel to maintain idle speed under a load. If we consider the conservative 10 lb-ft figure, then not including small percent losses, we have 10 lb-ft * 580 = 5,800 RPM......at an idle. The upper range (a range I feels is more accurate but would rather not state until proven on a dyno [something I am working on]), would be 25 lb-ft * 580 = 14,500 lb-ft torque. Fifteen-thousand pounds of torque...quietly...idling. Whatever it is I will bet my pink slip that it's higher than 6,000 lb-ft of torque at an idle without any throttle input.

So even with only an estimation of 10 lb-ft of engine torque, a value a child could easily exceed while arm wrestling, and we've already got nearly six-thousand pounds of force. This is the raw power of the Marlin Crawler and given this immense degree of control is why we do not experience bouncing, breaking, trail damage, roll overs, or risk to our selves, or our cargo, or our vehicle when the Marlin Crawler is engaged.

With all this torque why do parts not break?
It is true that if you were to cement all four tires to the ground, engage double-low range, and put the pedal to the metal with your eyes closed then something will definitely blow up.

But precisely because we have so much added control from the TacoBox, we have nearly 5 X more reaction time to listen to the truck, feel the engine slowly load up, hear the suspension begin to settle, and feel the vibrations in the seat from the slow rate change of RPM to finally think to yourself...

...and then you shift into Park, turn the truck off, get out, and then realize that your rear tire was trying to climb out from an undercut rock, something so impossible that had you not had a TacoBox, you surely would have broken an axle the second time you tried whacking the skinny pedal.

It is this extreme degree of control that in fact prevents us from breaking parts. Considering how much time you have to avoid destruction, you literally have to desire to break an axle when the Marlin Crawler is engaged. In fact my 1981 has been Triple Case'd (511:1) since 2004 and I have never broken an axle even with bias-ply 37" Pitbull ROCKER tires because I have the ability to listen to the truck's feedback and safely come to a stop before any failure occurs.

It's the same when discussing potential roll overs. Because we can now go so slow, you can feel the lean of the truck and have time to mentally assess each situation and simply chose to stop the vehicle before any permanent damage is done. Compared to revving the engine to generate necessary torque to turn the tires resulting in as we all know a lot of bouncing, once you start bouncing, gravity and suspension rebound take over and either cause parts to break or your truck to uncontrollably bounce off course. Don't do this. Get a TacoBox to protect and preserve your ride no matter what the trail throws your way!

 

Been reading this for the last 2 hours. Saw from a fb post. So cool! Sub'd for Marrack and future IFS info. Keep it up!

 

Damn. So much want a TacoBox .

Going to tell my wife that's what I want for my 40th bday this year. She's gonna say no but a man can wish.

Definitely on the list of mods.

 

Is it a cable shifter? Could it be positioned somewhere more discrete if wanted?

Amazing truck by the way! Love that your running 40s with IFS!