Billies at 2.5 - good alignment achieved

0 camber and toe are optimal but not the caster. The caster is the angle that keeps your vehicle tracking straight without using the wheel. Less caster will make the vehicle want to wander around.

 

It does.

To be honest, I need to see if I can find the most recent alignment sheet (it was a year ago) because I MIGHT be wrong on the 2.0 number. I will say at 2.5" lift it was NOT comfortable to drive. I didn't even want my gf driving it because I felt it was somewhat dangerous.

 

This is incorrect. Mine was at 0 toe. You are absolutely wrong.

 

as much as you explain caster to me, i understand its importance, but still cant visualize it in regards to the tire. Whenever I do the alignment on my atv I am looking at toe and caster angles, as well as steer strait angle. My methods involve alot of measuring with a tape and comparing sides but never had to deal with camber. I guess this is why I can't visualize it.

I actually set my atv with alot of negative caster i guess (bottom of the wheels kicked out) The book calls for it to be pretty much neutral but it seems to handle better in the sand with it set up like this.

 

This will help:

http://www.carparts.com/alignment.htm

This one seems a little better:

http://www.anewtoronto.com/wheel alignment.html

 

Thanks, interesting read about the pre 1975 cars and negative caster, makes a lot more sense now

 

Camber is what leans yours wheels in or out at the top. Caster is the relationship between the upper and lower pivot points(ball joints). Upper behind the lower is Pos caster.

 

Yes, everything as close to zero as possible except caster.

According to my alignment sheet, caster is between 1.4 and 2.9
But I have seen different numbers everywhere.
Mine is set to 2.8
You will want to max it out with a lift and bigger tires for more stability. You are probably fine tho, I just don't like your camber.

 

my camber is .6 and .7...

I feel kinda bad, this isn't my thread. I may have hijaked a bit .

 

so can i just go back and see if they can adjust it to the specs i want? i def dont want to pay another $70 for it. on the fence on lowering back to 1.75 too, it is a little stiff in the front, but i may get used to it. the main reason i want the full height (aside from the obvious badass-ness of it) is to eventually run 255/85/16s.

also, if i just lower it back to 1.75, would that improve all the numbers w/out another alignment just due to the lower angle?

 

You would definitely need another alignment.