Billstein 5100 easy install method

hmm ok.

I asked DSM to make sure.

 

No.

As said before, icon and king springs are ground flat on the bottom. They don't work with 5100s.

 

okie dokie.

 

I have adjustable 5100's already installed at the 2.5" height.
I'd like to adjust them down to 1.75"

If all I need to do is move the snap ring and plate down, how much dis-assembly is necessary? Do I need to remove the entire shock? Does this method give me enough clearance to adjust the shock without having to remove completely?

 

Ya u need to remove the shock decompress and move the snap ring down

 

No.

You cannot adjust the height of 5100s without removing and disassembling the whole coil over shock.

 

What about adding a 1/4" spacer? Can you just undo the 3 top bolts, or is that involved as well? I've got mine installed, and wheels aligned, but my lean outs starting to bug me.

 

To add the 1/4 inch top plate spacer you do not need to disassemble the coilover. But you do need to remove the coilover from the truck or at least drop it down 3 inches to place the spacer on the top.

If you are using a 1/2 inch spacer it will come with longer studs and to install the studs you do need to disassemble the coilover.

 

I'm doing this over the holiday weekend and I've got a few questions for anyone that may be able to answer....

I plan on using the dust boot with the washer in the top of it. Does this go directly against the rubber bushing that's in the top hat?? Without taking the old ones apart first, it's difficult understanding what will be left behind to re-use.

I've got a 2011 with about 50,000 miles on it. I sprayed everything with penetrating oil to make it easier for me this weekend and the rubber bushings looked fine with no cracking. Should they be replaced with new ones or is reusing the old ones just fine??

Is loosening the cam bolts absolutely necessary?? Or is this just done to allow the lower arm to swing easier out of the way??

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!

 

Here is a diagram of the order. In this diagram the dust boot with the metal insert is on the shock shaft. The dust boot with the metal insert goes under the bottom "Cushion Retainer" under the top hat. That bottom cushion retainer needs to be in between the dust boot and the top hat bushing.



The rubber bushings you have should be fine. Even some small cracks in the rubber are ok. Just as long as they are not falling apart.

Loosening the cam bolts IS necessary. Because the Lower control arm needs to drop down. Without loosening them it will not rotate down far enough for this method.
If you want to remove the coilover shock as a whole unit and then use a spring compressor or take it to a mechanic to disassemble then you can get away without loosening the cam bolts. But the method in my video requires them to be loosened.

 

Sub'd

 

Sub'd

 

Did all four today and it was extremely easy.

The only problem I had was the top nut on all four of the old shocks. They fought me the whole way and I destroyed the rears just getting them out.
I would have thought a truck that was 4-1/2 years old with only 45,000 miles would have been easier than that. Thank you New England winters.

I did NOT have to remove or unbolt the sway bar in the front on either side. The shocks and coils dropped straight down without interference. I'm assuming I had no problem because I jacked the truck way up so the lower arms could swing down to a vertical position. That was a welcome surprise.

As for the front cams - they rotated right back into their original position and the truck drives perfectly straight. The tires also look perfectly straight when looking at the truck from the front. I'll give everything about a week to settle and then I'll hit Firestone for an alignment.

 

I just picked up spring/shock assemblies from a 2014 or 15 Tacoma TRD Off-road. They were take-offs with about 20 miles on them I was told, and look pretty much brand new.

The springs are already compressed with shocks inside. I plan to swap them with the stock assemblies on the front of my 05 TRD Sport.

My first questions, is do I still need to loosen the LCA from the frame? It would seem that since I'm replacing the entire assembly--no spring compression needed--the unit would be short enough to swap out without needing to do so, which might also save an alignment. Thoughts?

Second, are there any other considerations in putting the TRD Off-road springs/shocks onto my TRD Sport? I would love it if they are a bit stiffer and provide for a higher ride height to level the truck.

Thanks in advance!

 

Nevermind. I just read about the TRD Off-road springs. Going to go with some OME and 5100s instead.

 

Subdivision for a tacoma newbie

 

Having problems loosening the lower control arm bolt. Any thoughts? Impact wrench will not take bolt off...

Any ideas appreciated.

 

The best lubricant for a stuck or rusted bolt is a 50 50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Spray some on there and let it soak for a few hours.

Getting it hot with a torch works well too, but there are rubber bushings in there, so you cant get it too hot.

 

You can still loosen the nut, but seeing that you are in Canada, the bolt is probably corroded and stuck. Do yourself a favor and the ones you do get out slop grease all over them so they can never corrode stuck themselves. I use Lucas Red n Tacky grease, good stuff

 

Got it! I also had problems getting lower control arms to drop all they way down as shown in the video, but a bit of muscle and the shock/coil came free.

Set 5100s at 1.75" and added 1" block with 5100s in rear which resulted in a very slight rake in rear of 1/8". Alignment plans for today.

Thanks DDD and Texoma for the support!